Wheazel wrote:Ty for your insights Amberwolf, it is getting clear to me why a solid pushrod is so commonly used.
I didn't want to use one either, for a few reasons, but it was all I coudl get to work, and it's worked so well I stuck with it on CB2.
I know it's not the only way to do it, and I knwo cable steering and chain link steering can work, too, but as you're finding, the slop in the system has to be taken out and it's harder to do than in a solid rod.
One way is with a threaded cable adjuster, I forget exactly what they are called, but it has a threaded eyebolt in each end, with the cables tied to the eyebolts, and the adjuster when twisted one way brings the eyes together, tightening the cable, and the other way pushes them apart, loosening the cable.
I could not build tensioners like that or wheel-type tensioners (kinda like derailers) at the time, but if you can build adjustable tensioners you can secure after adjustment, like pressure rollers against the cable, you could take out any extra slack in the cable.
The high mount to the steertube interferes with the cargoarea.
There's an alternate, by bending strong tubing into a kind of L or long S shape, so that it runs along the bottom of the bike under the cargo area, until it gets to the front, past the cargo bay, then goes up to meet the steerer mount point up on the fork.
Another way is to go "around" the back of the tire, bending it outward instead of upward, and then reaching a pivot point that sticks out from the side of the fork somewhere.
I've seen both of those methods on pics of various bakfiets.
I hope you can make the cable steering work, because whatever you do for that I'd like to try out myself, when I eventually replace the tiller steering on the SB Cruiser trike. (which was meant to be temporary until I could build or get parts for the remote steering).