DrkAngel
1 GW
Your first eBike experience is likely to be some cheap store bought item.
In the USA this would be something in the 250-500w range with a top speed of ~15-16 mph.
Often with a limited controller, as an attempt to minimize inefficiency and maximize the severely limited range.
The limited speed and power exude anemic performance!
Not surprisingly, these limitations tend to promote an all or nothing mode of throttle usage.
No harm done? ...
The typical manufactured eBikes seem to be safety regulated to endure this ... abuse?
Yes ... my first eBike was an eZip Trailz with a 450w motor and a paltry 16mph top speed, typically used in a WOT (Wide Open Throttle) manner only.
An on-off switch from battery, direct, to the motor might have been more appropriate!
It was not till I upgraded to a 36V battery that I was forced to begin weaning myself away from my acquired WOT addiction.
With a 23-24mph top speed I was forced to reduce-regulate the throttle. (20mph legal eBike speed limit)
More importantly, with the newfound 675watt of motor output it became important to closely consider the temperature of the motor, and controller.
42v(36v battery at peak charge) x 35A(controller) = 1470 watts of power input at full throttle.
This is an initial ~1500 watts of heat production WOT from a dead stop!(0% efficiency point)
(1500w is he heat output of a fair size electric heater ... inside an electric motor the size of a soup bowl.)
Reducing to a WOT 675w heat production and 675w power output when near to 12mph, (50% efficiency region).
Near top speed, amp input decreases(~10A) and efficiency increases (~80%) for 42V x 10A = 420w input.
420w input x 80% efficiency = 336w motor output + a mere 84w heat production.
Yes ... I have a math background, physics too.
Heat is the enemy - efficiency is the friend!
The Cure
1. Reduce throttle! ... Efficiency range of the BCM (battery-controller-motor) shifts, dependent on throttle position!
1/2 throttle turns the 12mph (WOT)50% efficiency range into the 80% efficiency range.
Judicious throttle usage could produce an 80% efficiency rate at all speeds!
Of course this would produce a pitiful start from a dead stop.
So you want to get to a healthy efficiency range quickly ...
2. Pedal assist the motor getting to the efficient range of the BCM.
With lower gears, at low speed, a human can handily apply a brisk acceleration, quickly putting an eBike into a
healthy region of it's power and efficiency curves.
Reasonable throttle usage and fast feet/quick shifts allow me to jump ahead of traffic from any red light ... takes them almost half a block to catch up to me, cruising at my 20mph.
In the USA this would be something in the 250-500w range with a top speed of ~15-16 mph.
Often with a limited controller, as an attempt to minimize inefficiency and maximize the severely limited range.
The limited speed and power exude anemic performance!
Not surprisingly, these limitations tend to promote an all or nothing mode of throttle usage.
No harm done? ...
The typical manufactured eBikes seem to be safety regulated to endure this ... abuse?
Yes ... my first eBike was an eZip Trailz with a 450w motor and a paltry 16mph top speed, typically used in a WOT (Wide Open Throttle) manner only.
An on-off switch from battery, direct, to the motor might have been more appropriate!
It was not till I upgraded to a 36V battery that I was forced to begin weaning myself away from my acquired WOT addiction.
With a 23-24mph top speed I was forced to reduce-regulate the throttle. (20mph legal eBike speed limit)
More importantly, with the newfound 675watt of motor output it became important to closely consider the temperature of the motor, and controller.
42v(36v battery at peak charge) x 35A(controller) = 1470 watts of power input at full throttle.
This is an initial ~1500 watts of heat production WOT from a dead stop!(0% efficiency point)
(1500w is he heat output of a fair size electric heater ... inside an electric motor the size of a soup bowl.)
Reducing to a WOT 675w heat production and 675w power output when near to 12mph, (50% efficiency region).
Near top speed, amp input decreases(~10A) and efficiency increases (~80%) for 42V x 10A = 420w input.
420w input x 80% efficiency = 336w motor output + a mere 84w heat production.
Yes ... I have a math background, physics too.
Heat is the enemy - efficiency is the friend!
The Cure
1. Reduce throttle! ... Efficiency range of the BCM (battery-controller-motor) shifts, dependent on throttle position!
1/2 throttle turns the 12mph (WOT)50% efficiency range into the 80% efficiency range.
Judicious throttle usage could produce an 80% efficiency rate at all speeds!
Of course this would produce a pitiful start from a dead stop.
So you want to get to a healthy efficiency range quickly ...
2. Pedal assist the motor getting to the efficient range of the BCM.
With lower gears, at low speed, a human can handily apply a brisk acceleration, quickly putting an eBike into a
healthy region of it's power and efficiency curves.
Reasonable throttle usage and fast feet/quick shifts allow me to jump ahead of traffic from any red light ... takes them almost half a block to catch up to me, cruising at my 20mph.
