molybdenum
1 kW
Thanks to the ES community, I had some excellent build advice for my first build, which was a 2.3kV capable clyte based hardtail with homemade 17s 15Ah LiMn battery. Once again, I return seeking advice on a new project. I have read many threads on related topics to gather information that may help with this new build.
My situation has changed since my first build and for the past year, I have needed to drive my kids to school and my current e-bike is too heavy for my hitch mounted bike rack. Most days, I was taking a non-electric hybrid on the car and riding the 14 km to work after dropping off the kids and returning for the car at the end of the day. This worked fine for a while, but I suffered neck injuries last October after being hit by a car while riding my bike to work and my recovery has been slow. I'm finally at the point where I can take my bike on a car rack and ride the remaining 3-4 km to work, then return to the car for the trip home; but some days I am too sore to ride at all.
Other than a sore neck, I'm a fairly fit rider and would like to stay that way if possible, so I'm considering 500-800W output with scalable pedal assist would give me the option of extra help on those not-so-good days. It needs to be light enough and balanced about the top tube to fit on the bike rack. I will need easily removable batteries because I can no longer get my e-bike near a power source to recharge. I like the idea of a geared hub, which spins freely and can be ridden like a normal bicycle without resistance.
I'm considering converting my 2012 Kona Dew Deluxe (56 cm aluminum frame, no suspension, 700c wheels) and installing a rear 500+W geared hubmotor. To be safe, I will need about 45-50 km range with pedalling. I plan to build my own 48V battery from high discharge cells. Most of my 28 km 2-way commute consists of fairly light grades, with a few 100 m+ 4-5% grades and two 40-60 m 8% grades. Charging non-lipo batteries at work would be an option, which I might take to keep the weight down.
To mount the bike on a car carrier, I will need to distribute the weight between the front and back. I’d like it to be discrete, so I'm considering a low profile rear hub counterbalanced with a grocery bag battery in a basket mounted to the handlebars. I'm strongly considering the Q series of rear geared motors from BMSbattery for their small size, but I have some questions, as their site doesn't offer much in the way of information and I’d like to get the right stuff (I hear this can be a problem even if you know exactly what you need ).
Q128H-135mm 800W Rear Driving EBike Hub Motor
-Their website says it’s 201RPM unloaded and 36V; would this spin closer to 250RPM at 48V? What top speed would it give at 48V? My back of the napkin calculation suggests 33 kph unloaded for the q128h at 48v, which seems slow, and ideally, I’d like to have assist up to 32kph at least.
-S12SH 800W 35A Sine Wave Controller
- The controllers recommended for the Q128H are only 500W; will this one work with the Q128H?
-S-LCD3 LCD Meter for S-Series Controllers
- I’m guessing I need one of these for the PAS if I go with the S12SH, which comes with a "simulated torque" feature. Is this feature usable for a mainly PAS build, or would I be better off using a different controller and a V3 cycle analyst??
My situation has changed since my first build and for the past year, I have needed to drive my kids to school and my current e-bike is too heavy for my hitch mounted bike rack. Most days, I was taking a non-electric hybrid on the car and riding the 14 km to work after dropping off the kids and returning for the car at the end of the day. This worked fine for a while, but I suffered neck injuries last October after being hit by a car while riding my bike to work and my recovery has been slow. I'm finally at the point where I can take my bike on a car rack and ride the remaining 3-4 km to work, then return to the car for the trip home; but some days I am too sore to ride at all.
Other than a sore neck, I'm a fairly fit rider and would like to stay that way if possible, so I'm considering 500-800W output with scalable pedal assist would give me the option of extra help on those not-so-good days. It needs to be light enough and balanced about the top tube to fit on the bike rack. I will need easily removable batteries because I can no longer get my e-bike near a power source to recharge. I like the idea of a geared hub, which spins freely and can be ridden like a normal bicycle without resistance.
I'm considering converting my 2012 Kona Dew Deluxe (56 cm aluminum frame, no suspension, 700c wheels) and installing a rear 500+W geared hubmotor. To be safe, I will need about 45-50 km range with pedalling. I plan to build my own 48V battery from high discharge cells. Most of my 28 km 2-way commute consists of fairly light grades, with a few 100 m+ 4-5% grades and two 40-60 m 8% grades. Charging non-lipo batteries at work would be an option, which I might take to keep the weight down.
To mount the bike on a car carrier, I will need to distribute the weight between the front and back. I’d like it to be discrete, so I'm considering a low profile rear hub counterbalanced with a grocery bag battery in a basket mounted to the handlebars. I'm strongly considering the Q series of rear geared motors from BMSbattery for their small size, but I have some questions, as their site doesn't offer much in the way of information and I’d like to get the right stuff (I hear this can be a problem even if you know exactly what you need ).
Q128H-135mm 800W Rear Driving EBike Hub Motor
-Their website says it’s 201RPM unloaded and 36V; would this spin closer to 250RPM at 48V? What top speed would it give at 48V? My back of the napkin calculation suggests 33 kph unloaded for the q128h at 48v, which seems slow, and ideally, I’d like to have assist up to 32kph at least.
-S12SH 800W 35A Sine Wave Controller
- The controllers recommended for the Q128H are only 500W; will this one work with the Q128H?
-S-LCD3 LCD Meter for S-Series Controllers
- I’m guessing I need one of these for the PAS if I go with the S12SH, which comes with a "simulated torque" feature. Is this feature usable for a mainly PAS build, or would I be better off using a different controller and a V3 cycle analyst??