Motor sorta studders at low speed. FIne at high speed.

Pretty sure its the controller or throttle. Its on my heavily abused controller and throttle. I have a new controller coming in the mail because I had to rma my primary controller for getting the wrong display unit. Anyways I was riding today hit a pothole I could not avoid because there was construction going on with no cones out and a truck came out its lane into mine so I had to go into the pot hole. I went to apply throttle motor seized noticed one of my phase wire connected solders came undone.Re soldered every phase connection to be safe. So now I can get power but my ride seizes up at lower speed sorta its just jerky.Its not till 20 mph and up where the ride is smooth and feels like and sounds normal. Just wondering if this sounds like a controller issue hate for my new controller to come in the mail just to have to rma my hub motor.

The wheel has to move forward for the throttle to even start. Simply pedaling and it will start. I have no peddle assist btw.

I have a another hub motor I could use for testing if I could rewire the cut wiresbut the things impossible to open I have gotten over 10 mm of spaceing all around it and the cover just won't come off.

Added video

[youtube]zvSsUn0epGU[/youtube]

I am easing in and off the throttle so you can hear how when throttle is first applied from a stop it stutters and is not smooth.

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Totally a guess, and it's hard to tell from the vids, but maybe a damaged Hall wire somewhere in the same hit? It counts on the sensors the most during startup, and I just read in another thread that some controllers go to sensorless mode after 20mph, which could make it suddenly get better.
But probably not the throttle, they seem to either work or not, but not stuttering that clears up.

Voltron said:

Totally a guess, and it's hard to tell from the vids, but maybe a damaged Hall wire somewhere in the same hit? It counts on the sensors the most during startup, and I just read in another thread that some controllers go to sensorless mode after 20mph, which could make it suddenly get better.
But probably not the throttle, they seem to either work or not, but not stuttering that clears up.

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Would that be a hall sensor in the motor ?

Yes but check the 5 hall wires and their connections first, since it happened along with the loose phase wire and pothole. My 1kw kit got all studdery on startup, and it was a loose connection for halls- controller ran sensorless but there isn't much startup power that way.

nutspecial said:

Yes but check the 5 hall wires and their connections first, since it happened along with the loose phase wire and pothole. My 1kw kit got all studdery on startup, and it was a loose connection for halls- controller ran sensorless but there isn't much startup power that way.

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My hall wires are fine from looking at them. But even after re soldering my phase wires I have 1 loose phase connector this time a different phase wire on the controller. Admittedly I bought dirt cheap bullet connectors off amazon that are the same as the ones that come with kits and phase connectors cross wiring have caused this problem before on a different hub motor just that one would seize. The initial seize I am dealing with now feels the same as when the phase wires cross only instead of staying seize it will stutter into acceleration. I switched to Anderson power poles to solve that may have to switch back again. Not sure why the connections aren't snug anymore when I first got them last week they were a perfect fit to the motors phase wires.

As I was reading, I was thinking you have a phase that connects, but poorly. Under heavy load, its pulling, but not hard. So slow it runs pull, pull, bleah.

At speed, running on "two cylinders" seems smooth enough because you need less pull then and rpm is up.

dogman dan said:

As I was reading, I was thinking you have a phase that connects, but poorly. Under heavy load, its pulling, but not hard. So slow it runs pull, pull, bleah.

At speed, running on "two cylinders" seems smooth enough because you need less pull then and rpm is up.

Click to expand...

Exactly what I was guessing strong winds and hills bring the studdering back.

Also I am a dumb ass anderson power pole connectors cost the same as the cheap generic no review ebike bullet connectors I bought. For some reason I thought the andersons I got last time were 20 bucks.

hall wire near the controller connection caused the issue. It waited till after i rewired everything inside my hub motor to reveal itself smh.

In other news I was able to open both my hub motors. Decided to start with the hub motor I couldn't open I figured if I couldn't open that I would not even try on the other so my warranty stayed in place and I could just rma it. This time with more items at my disposal to get up to 16 mm of space. Where as 10 was not enough 16 did just the trick. Now knowing I could open my newer hub motor and fix the old one I went to open it up and it was several times easier all I needed was 7 mm of space to pop it open. Btw hex wrenches are the best for opening hub motors. Start with a flat head screw driver and keep going up in hex wrench size
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Pin-Way-Car-Waterproof-Electrical-Connector-Plug-Socket-Kit-w-Wire-AWG-Marine-/292007172649