Kepler
10 MW
I have played around with the SO6P and RC style motors quite a bit. on a 260 kV motor, 9S is about as high as you can go. I ran 10S 36V no problems SK3 6374 150kv motor.
Folken said:Hi guys, I've made an approximate copy of Adrian's bracket and swing arm, and I have a problem: Sometimes, as the drive engages into the tyre, it starts rattling against the stops very hard. It then ends up with bent pin of the swing arm (best case), or the clamp block cracks because of excessive impact force applied to the screw stops. Does anyone know a solution to prevent this rattling?
I would make the bracket out of Nylon 66 if I knew where to buy it. Did you buy it online somewhere?Blanthegenius said:If you make your bracket from Nylon 66 like in this tutorial it will work.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Friction-drive-build-for-bikes/
Thanks for the link!Blanthegenius said:Yes I googled and found a few places, here's where I bought mine just recently http://www.directplastics.co.uk
If you click on the free delivery on orders over £50 button a window will appear and at the bottom of that window you will see Rest of the World click the link and send them an email regards to delivery etc.
Kepler said:I have played around with the SO6P and RC style motors quite a bit. on a 260 kV motor, 9S is about as high as you can go. I ran 10S 36V no problems SK3 6374 150kv motor.
Because I’m not interested in re-engineering the whole system, I’ve decided to buy an off the shelf ESC. This time, 150A and with an active freewheeling design. This is also called synchronous rectification, when the diode in a buck regulator is replaced with an active switch (MOSFET). This reduces losses dramatically, so now my ESC stays cool even with no airflow around it at all. Incredible! Before, I had to open the frame bag to avoid overheating my old ESC. Nevertheless, at the top of a big hill it usually started cutting out because temp protection was kicking in. It was very hot to touch. It was a 100A ESC, and I was drawing 35A. This new ESC just gets to maybe around the body temperature, while sitting in a closed pocket of the frame bag, protected from water. I’m very pleased. Let’s see how it goes.bose said:Check the skateboard / stand up scooter forum for the VESC. Should be perfect for the task. You could write an application for whatever throttle ramp you would wish for that makes it activate smoothly. No need for any external arduino/whatever, all code would run in the ESC.
Folken said:Of course the motor will disengage because there is no load. Just test it on the road.
I have also diffren problem ESC but most them get killed when motor overheat get in short circuit but this one has worked good even as burn 2 motor with it.Folken said:Because I’m not interested in re-engineering the whole system, I’ve decided to buy an off the shelf ESC. This time, 150A and with an active freewheeling design. This is also called synchronous rectification, when the diode in a buck regulator is replaced with an active switch (MOSFET). This reduces losses dramatically, so now my ESC stays cool even with no airflow around it at all. Incredible! Before, I had to open the frame bag to avoid overheating my old ESC. Nevertheless, at the top of a big hill it usually started cutting out because temp protection was kicking in. It was very hot to touch. It was a 100A ESC, and I was drawing 35A. This new ESC just gets to maybe around the body temperature, while sitting in a closed pocket of the frame bag, protected from water. I’m very pleased. Let’s see how it goes.bose said:Check the skateboard / stand up scooter forum for the VESC. Should be perfect for the task. You could write an application for whatever throttle ramp you would wish for that makes it activate smoothly. No need for any external arduino/whatever, all code would run in the ESC.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__55413__RotorStar_150A_2_6S_SBEC_Brushless_Speed_Controller.html