QS Motor 205 50H V3ti

Found this motor recently on QS motor website and aliexpress:

http://www.cnqsmotor.com/en/article_read/QS%20Motor%203000W%20205%2050H%20V3TI%20bicycle%20electric%20motor/bicycle%20spoke%20motor/e-bike%20motor/885.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000640216373.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.64fe31ce5VMhef&algo_pvid=5139b9c6-105c-4c8c-b066-7829a93dcd9c&algo_expid=5139b9c6-105c-4c8c-b066-7829a93dcd9c-7&btsid=0ab50f6115889687867976119ee7de&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

Is anyone running this newer version? How does it compare to standard v3 in terms of output?
I looked around here a bit but have not seen it discussed anywhere.
Any feedback would be great.

As per your Aliexpress link:


Main difference between V3 and V3TI

1. Phase wire exit from thread side, which is easier to mount on bike and it looks better.

2. Phase wire change to integrated one instead of standard loose one, which improved from IP54 to IP65.

3. Add brake spacer as default, which is thinner to avoid scratch phase wire by brake disc.

So apart from these improvements everything looks the same.

Jonno said:

1. Phase wire exit from thread side, which is easier to mount on bike and it looks better.
3. Add brake spacer as default, which is thinner to avoid scratch phase wire by brake disc.

Click to expand...

If the phase wires exit on the thread side, then they can't be scratched by the brake disc (which is on the other side).... ?

Jonno said:

As per your Aliexpress link:


Main difference between V3 and V3TI

1. Phase wire exit from thread side, which is easier to mount on bike and it looks better.

2. Phase wire change to integrated one instead of standard loose one, which improved from IP54 to IP65.

3. Add brake spacer as default, which is thinner to avoid scratch phase wire by brake disc.

So apart from these improvements everything looks the same.

Click to expand...

Thank you for your that information, Jonno.

Jonno said:

As per your Aliexpress link:


Main difference between V3 and V3TI

1. Phase wire exit from thread side, which is easier to mount on bike and it looks better.

2. Phase wire change to integrated one instead of standard loose one, which improved from IP54 to IP65.

3. Add brake spacer as default, which is thinner to avoid scratch phase wire by brake disc.

So apart from these improvements everything looks the same.

Click to expand...

I think this helps with mounting to prevent phase wires from rubbing the frame like on vector ebike. Found similar design on vector website, i think.

https://vectorebike.com/bike/motor/qs-v3-custom-modified-black-new-version-1

Also better waterproofing - I've to repair 3 of the old style 205s due to water and rust

Jonno said:

Also better waterproofing - I've to repair 3 of the old style 205s due to water and rust

Click to expand...

Well I will be mainly flat, dry roads but yeah nice to know.

I'm looking into this motor and neither the ads nor this post really cleared this up for me.

Which side do the wires exist on the V3? Brake side or drive side? I would assume "threaded" means drive side, but that just doesn't jive with the ads or the words. As another user pointed out:

amberwolf said:

Jonno said:

3. Add brake spacer as default, which is thinner to avoid scratch phase wire by brake disc.

Click to expand...

If the phase wires exit on the thread side, then they can't be scratched by the brake disc (which is on the other side).... ?

Click to expand...

Why would the new model have a spacer to avoid the brake disc if it's on the drive/threaded side? That doesn't make any sense.

This ad has a graphic that seem to try to explain the differences, but every picture is the cable coming out the rotor side.

Also, the new ad lists V3,V3I and V3TI -- but I've got no idea what's different between the three, honestly.



This is all the same exit side!

chuyskywalker said:

Which side do the wires exist on the V3? Brake side or drive side?

Click to expand...

Depends on which version of it you're talking about.

FWIW, based on the letters and features, I would expect that V3 is the plain original, the V3i is just the "integrated" phase wire cable for better waterproofing, and the V3ti is boht that and the cable coming out the threaded side cover side (drive side instead of brake side).

Jonno's post explains the difference between the two mentioned in this thread before (V3 and V3ti), but as my comment notes, and as you note, one of the changes makes no sense, and as you note, the picture from their site seems to show the same motor in all three versions.

That could simply be that they did indeed actually use pics of the same motor version, for whatever reason, instead of actually showing the different ways they make them. :/ It is not all that uncommon for those making web ads to pay no attention to what they are actually doing, or to know nothing about the stuff that they are making the ad for so that they don't even know they are making a mistake.



If it helps, in the post I previously linked you to of the one I have (a plain V3) there are pics that show the wires come out of it's brake side. Don't know if they're all the same for the V3 plain but would expect so.


So I guess, the question is: what are the specific features you require the motor to have? That way we can help you pick the specific version that does have them.

I ordered a V3TI about 2 weeks ago. When I receive it, I’ll post some pictures here (if I can remember haha).

amberwolf said:

FWIW, based on the letters and features, I would expect that V3 is the plain original, the V3i is just the "integrated" phase wire cable for better waterproofing, and the V3ti is boht that and the cable coming out the threaded side cover side (drive side instead of brake side).

Click to expand...

Ahhh, the "I" for "integrated" and "T" for "thread-side". That actually makes sense -- I guess I'll just trust that these ads not, uh, high caliber productions.

Yermommy said:

I ordered a V3TI about 2 weeks ago. When I receive it, I’ll post some pictures here (if I can remember haha).

Click to expand...

See ya in a month or two ;D

"T" for "thread-side" relates to the axle, not the whole motor.

The cable hole in the axle is in the threaded part, not the flat part which you push into dropouts.
It is so that the cable exits inbetween two halves of pinch-dropouts, without being squeezed by them.

Look where the cable exits from the axle, in relation to the factory "torque arms" ... old version is 90 degrees offset (looks like 45deg in the photos above) from the direction of the torque arm, new version ("T" version) is in the same "plane" as the torque arm is pointing.

Ahhhhh, that I finally see what they mean. Thank you, that's much more clear.

Mock up renders to explain the difference visually:

Exit on the "Flat" (v3/v3i):



Exit on the "Thread" (v3ti):

Ok, that makes a lot more sense with the pics they gave.

It would also be easier to take care of routing the cable, and less likely to end up with a wear problem on the cable housing (sometimes eating into the cables too) from the thick cable being pressed into a space too small for it to curve thru and then rubbing on the frame. Sometimes, instead of rubbing, this tight bending/compression, depending on the type of insulation on the wires (like teflon whcih can "flow" over time, or softer regular insulations that can soften even more under the heat of current flow) can cause them to compress in a way that pinches insulation and can potentially allow wires to short to each other (which can destroy the controller).


However...in the event of a mechanical failure allowing axle rotation, with the cable passing thru the dropout, it'd be nearly certain to cut thru the cable and short phase/hall/etc wires together, destroying the controller.


Still, I'd go for the T version myself, if I had to use one that exited thru a hollow axle.

What I'd like to see is more manufacturers routing the wires completely outside the axle, thru a spacer ring between a larger-ID bearing and the axle itself. Depending on the design this could even allow the ring to be turned along with the wires to allow routing specific to each bike/etc it's installed on. Even if not, it would still mean a stronger axle (has no slot, holes, or tunnels in it).

Then I'd like to see them using regular normal round axles, and integrated torque arm mounts in the axle face/shoulders, instead of trying to use these tiny axle flat surfaces to transfer all that torque thru a thin / narrow bit of frame dropout that generally isn't designed for the purpose.

But that's been discussed plenty before, and Heinzman has been doing it for years (more than a decade?) and suggested to manufacturers a lot over the years, and hasn't resulted in changes for essentially any of them (except for some customized designs by Grin Tech, and perhaps a handful of other designs out there).

Here’s the V3TI picture that I promised

Yermommy said:

Here’s the V3TI picture that I promised

Click to expand...

Cool, thanks! Seems to settle the issue