Recent content by beemac

Did you do the continuity check to make sure red+red and black+black are connected together on the two brake sensor connectors? If so, then yes you can pick either red since they are both connected together.

Yes that should work First you need to double-check there is no voltage on the brake sensor connectors. If you can't get the probes in the holes, cut two bits of (ideally non-stranded wire), strip both ends - and poke those into the holes, then you can use the multimeter to check for any...

voltage dictates motor spin speed if everything else is equal, so unless you've got a method to make the controllers keep them at the same speed - with those packs, one wheel will try to run faster than the other i would expect. Not sure how that would handle - or if you'd get any increase in...

yes check for continuity - black to black and red to red. If each pair the same colour are connected then you know that they are two connectors but they both connect to the same one sensor input. You wouldn't expect to see any voltage assuming it's a low sensing brake input which most seem to...

i explained how to connect the three wire gear sensor in an earlier post - you need to connect the signal wire to the brake input on the controller, ground to ground and find 5v to power it from the pas sensor or other 5v output on the controller. Check out the whiteboard drawing I posted - and...

you need to test them (the brake sensor connectors) with a multimeter as I suggested to see what's what.

we've spent time giving you help on that in the other thread - don't ignore that and ask the same question again. What didn't you understand in the other thread? Please go back and ask there rather than start again.

power is rpm x torque, torque needs amps, and rpm increases with voltage. So for the H500 it looks like it's just related to increasing battery voltage. The H550 is probably a different winding - so gets more RPM for the same voltage. That's just my assumption based on what I've read here over...

From what I've read on here - i think the BMS needs to be able to handle the voltage of both batteries should some sort of failure occur.

Ah I'm not looking to keep anything a secret, will all be open source and published on github. I'm building on top of the work of others - esp from a software point of view.

450W is 12.5A at 36V - so that's what you need the battery to provide, very probably more for short periods. If it's struggling to put out <4A that's definitely an issue.

cheers, yea It's a good way to learn more about electronics for sure but no way i'm doing smd soldering on even this relatively small scale. I'm getting the boards made by jlcpcb, still amazes me (and slightly worries me!) that I can get custom pcbs made, populated, tested and delivered from...

I had a similar board to the above made - it worked ok-ish on the bench but was very noisy and impossible to debug properly because i'd put the arduino above most of the circuitry and so couldn't probe - rookie mistake! I'm waiting for rev.2 to be delivered that has some changes to the power...

vedderb - Overview Is the vesc creator's GitHub repo, has the firmware and hardware details. bldc/hwconf at master · vedderb/bldc Looks to be where the hw specific source code is, that should be where you can find the answer

I use a method similar to this - except I wouldn't remove so much insulation and wrap so many times. I would also solder the joint after wire wrapping. Always remember to put the heatshrink over first - I dread to think the number of times I've done a load and forgotten to put heatshrink on the...