Recent content by bluovalguy

I picked up some used 2.0a batteries on ebay to play with. One seems to be bricked so I didn't mind tearing into it deeper. As M52 already mentioned, the protection must be built into the tools. The main terminals are wired directly off the cells. Also, confirming this 2.0 battery is 14 cells in...

Cool!

Maybe you missed it in the original post, I did actually disassemble my first gmax battery and identified the cells. Theres a photo half way down the fisrt page (although you probably can't see the cell markings.) Can't say for sure if all of them use these cells, but mine from mid 2013 were...

This is just how the gmax is designed. Others have noted that the main terminals ar always on as well. How do you activate your old greenworks 40v? Just jumper pins 4 & 2?

Not sure what you mean by adaptor... I'm just connecting to the main +/- terminals directly with greenworks insert blocks. Full voltage is always available to the main terminals unlike the older version which shuts down when idle. Was the LVC you were seeing from the controller? I have run down...

Warning to anyone using these batteries... They have no internal LVC whatsoever. I accidentally left them connected to the bike with controller on for almost a month. They drained to 1.5v total pack voltage and would not take a charge. Thought they were bricked, but was able to nurse them back...

Awesome setup! Have you confirmed that both parallel banks are drawing down equally? A problem I ran into with P108's was that when they are paralleled, one would be shut down by the bms. (When sitting idle, the main terminals do not output 18v on these batteries.) I ended up using the "guages"...

Yes, wait 2 minutes before disconnecting. If its still good, maybe the s/p configuration will work without issues? Would still recommend riding for awhile and make sure its drawing them down evenly. Good luck!

Local Walmart has this on sale for $350. Looks like a good wife bike. How is the torque on this thing for hill climbing? (stock) The only way I could justify it is if she could climb a big hill by our house with "normal" pedal input. That keeps her from riding her non-ebike. My only point of...

Exactly, the gauges would reset to the other battery. I guess what I said previously about unplugging them all and checking voltage wasn't accurate. You would need to check whichever battery in each parallel set was plugged in last. If I remember right, you can get them both active with the...

Try first disconnecting whichever battery was put in the gauge second. If I remember right, that was always the inactive one.

Run it like that and see if the batteries all drain. Maybe since you're running series as well this is different? The problem I had was if I pulled the live battery first, the second battery would be activated by the gauge as the first one was removed. So hard to tell unless you happen to pull...

Interesting find. Mine does the same. Only problem is if you hold down the button, it still shuts off a few seconds later as if you just pressed/released the button.

Also... I did find one partial work around. Unplug/replug each battery separately so that both batteries are at 18v. Then keep a load on it. They both seemed to stay on as long as the bike was pulling amps. But as soon as you stop for more than a minute one of the batteries would drop. Another...

There was no way to know looking at the gauges, because they were paralleled and both would light up even if only one battery was active. You could tell which one shut off by removing both gauges and immediately measuring battery voltage. The active one would stay at 18v for 1 minute. The "off"...