Recent content by caykroyd

Received new controller. Bike worked great for one day. Came back next day to try it....no success. Unplugged then replugged all cables and it worked fine again. Tried a couple hours later and no success. The unplug/replug trick didn't work either. If I lift the wheel, spin it with my...

How do you test the controller with voltmeter with no batteries connected? Since I have a BL36, that may not be consistent with wire colors, I don't want to fry my controller.

Sorry to restart this post, but how do you check the polarity of the controller's battery inputs before hooking up the battery?

I have a new motor only 3-wires. Called up my supplier (BernsonEV) and he agrees that's it's likely the controller. He's sending me a new one. He's definitely good with customer service. Hopefully, new controller works out for me. Thanks for the help.

Well, after a no fault ride last night, I don't get any power to the motor today. At load, I get the stuttering all the time now. And at no load, I get no stutter or spinning. I get four quick blinks on the controller light. I'm sure this is some fault condition, but the manual doesn't state...

I may have access to an sla. I'll check. It's a 24" trike. I'm 180, so I'm sure myself and the trike are over 200lbs. The stuttering happens from dead stop or slow roll. It never seems to cutout during any sustained throttle. Actually last night I ran up and down my block going dead stop...

I have a WE BL36 wheel and the 50Amp controller that came with it. I hooked this up to 2 series connected 18V ryobi lithium ion battery. got pretty good mileage at cruising speeds, but if I went full throttle the motor would cutoff. I would get a bit of a stuttering or jack hammering effect...

Ah, I thought the 50amps meant that was the max it could supply. Didn't know that was continuous current it required from battery. If this is the case, I wouls guess my best bet would be to get a suitable controller for my BL-36 and Bosch's. Or should I go with heavy duty batteries? I'd...

It has no specs. on the unit itself, but the manual I received says it's a 50amp controller. I think it has a LVC of 31.5V I change the battery connector on it and when I did, I shorted the two terminals together for a big spark. But this jack-hammering cutoff was happening before that...

Since I was having some trouble with full throttle and cutouts, I switched over to 2 36V Bosch's in parallel. From what I've read these batteries should have no problem driving the load. But I'm still getting cutoffs. If I go at 80-100% throttle for quarter mile or so, then let off, then try...

Well I just ordered a couple of Bosch batteries. Whether it's the controller or not, I want more power and I don't want to ruin my power tool batteries. That and the fact that the bosch's will be a cleaner look once put together. I hope the controller is okay. How do I go about testing...

Well, I'm assuming that the bms is protecting the battery. So, when it cuts out like it does, I shouldn't be doing any damage to the battery. Am I wrong in thinking this?

Must be a pretty big capacitor. I powered up the bike and it wouldn't run. Waiting about 30 seconds and it started running. So the batteries just needed to charge the cap. Sorry, for the replies as you guys already know this stuff, but I'm new to it.

uhoh. I changed out some wiring and connectors from battery to controller. I accidentally shorted plus/minus on the controller and got a pretty big spark. I'm hoping it was just a big cap discharging and nothing got fried. I haven't tried hooking it back up yet. Any ideas? You think my...

Today I made it about 4 miles. I accidentally throttle from a stop and then the batteries cut out. Waited about 5 minutes and batteries came back to life. I think there might be some battery management system within the battery. I think can probably push it another 0.5-1 mile more.