uhoh. I changed out some wiring and connectors from battery to controller. I accidentally shorted plus/minus on the controller and got a pretty big spark. I'm hoping it was just a big cap discharging and nothing got fried. I haven't tried hooking it back up yet. Any ideas? You think my controller is fried?
Ryobi lithium Ion to power trike
- Thread starter caykroyd
- Start date
dogman dan
1 PW
I did that once just the other day, but I got away with it. I was cutting the old connector off, and forgot about the power in the caps in the controller. So when I cut the wires both at once, ZAP. But it's fine, so I hope you have the same experience.
Must be a pretty big capacitor. I powered up the bike and it wouldn't run. Waiting about 30 seconds and it started running. So the batteries just needed to charge the cap. Sorry, for the replies as you guys already know this stuff, but I'm new to it.
dogman dan
1 PW
Our pleasure to help. But all those bms shutdowns have to mean you are hammering those batteries.
theyerb
100 W
I doubt it's the battery bms cutting out- more likely, it's your controller, I would think. Also, on my 9 Continent controller, I've already blown 2 large caps (reverse polarity on accident, like you), one small cap, a resistor, and right now I'm waiting for a replacement MOSFET to ship in so I can get it running again! In other words, I've fixed blown components on the controller many times! So if you do blow something... it is probably fixable.
dogman dan
1 PW
That's true, it could be the controllers lvc cutting out. Either way, its not exactly a sign that everything is okey dokey. A properly matched controller, motor and battery is not going to have any cut outs. It's just not a system that is going to stand long term use. I understand the appeal of a really light set up, but maybe for that some real high discharge rate lipoly is what you need. Your tools will be useless when you toast thier batteries as well as the bike.
Well I just ordered a couple of Bosch batteries. Whether it's the controller or not, I want more power and I don't want to ruin my power tool batteries. That and the fact that the bosch's will be a cleaner look once put together. I hope the controller is okay. How do I go about testing whether the controller is cutting out vs. the batteries cutting out?
dogman dan
1 PW
I can feel the difference, after some experience. A controller cut off is like boom. No power in a real snap. A battery cut out still has to drain the caps in the contoller, so though it still happens in less than a second, it sort of has a whoosh feel as the caps drain out. That is how I tell, but it took a few months riding to notice it. A voltmeter attached at the battery to controller connection would tell all, so if you can look without actually disconnecting, you can find out.
theyerb
100 W
I know what you mean by that sudden cut out in controller power. It really wakes you up!
docnjoj
1 GW
Well, I just had a "whatever" cut out! BAM! No power! Hadda pedal 3 miles back to my house, once again my wife cheering me on! Later she told me she did use "some power" on the steep hills! Yuk! Needed oxygen (it really woulda helped!) Apparently when the little green light stays on when attempting to charge, it really means something!!! Duh! I thought the battery was still charged, even after 20 miles or so! Duh! Anyhow, with a little contact cleaner on the Andersons, the charger turned red and overnite the 48V ping went to 60.5 volts. Trike works like a charm! Maybe the 2 weeks of solid rain had something to do with it! Duh!
otherDoc
otherDoc
dogman dan
1 PW
Wait till you have a loose connection on the output side of the charger, inside the box. Plug it in, red light goes on, fan goes on. Back at the end of the workday, the green light is on, everything ok. You think! Then half way home, 8 miles to go, and battery dead, its only 105 F, and the only bus for an hour just passed you ten minuites ago. Had this for about two weeks, randomly, before I figured it out. :lol: :lol: Pedaling a 6% hill is no fun with an 85 pound bike.
docnjoj
1 GW
Right on, Dogman! I made my trike heavier with electric stuff and raised the gearing to pedal at the higher attainible speed. Works great with the motor. Luckily I also kept my smaller chainwheel (42 teeth) bolten on the ring. I manually put the chain on it from the 52 tooth one, and I actually could pedal up a hill without power! I wish it felt better! 
otherDoc
otherDoc
dogman dan
1 PW
Love my 58 tooth sprocket, but I have a 24 down there if I need it. God I hope I don't need it too often.
Since I was having some trouble with full throttle and cutouts, I switched over to 2 36V Bosch's in parallel. From what I've read these batteries should have no problem driving the load. But I'm still getting cutoffs. If I go at 80-100% throttle for quarter mile or so, then let off, then try to throttle again I get a stuttering type effect at the motor. Not sure how else to describe it. Sort of like a jackhammer. If I shut off the controller for a couple minutes, then start up again it works.
My guess is it must be coming from controller. Any way to check the controller? Or is is possible that the controller is fine, but can't handle the load? Any recommendation for a new controller. I have a 600W Wilderness Energy Brushless. The controller came with the conversion kit, so I would hope it was meant for the hub.
My guess is it must be coming from controller. Any way to check the controller? Or is is possible that the controller is fine, but can't handle the load? Any recommendation for a new controller. I have a 600W Wilderness Energy Brushless. The controller came with the conversion kit, so I would hope it was meant for the hub.
theyerb
100 W
Hmm, not sure what that could be. Two of the Bosch packs in parallel worked like a charm for me... What are the stats on the controller? What amps does it specify?
It has no specs. on the unit itself, but the manual I received says it's a 50amp controller. I think it has a LVC of 31.5V
I change the battery connector on it and when I did, I shorted the two terminals together for a big spark. But this jack-hammering cutoff was happening before that anyway. An I can't imagine went below 31.5V on a 40V charge in my first 1/10 mile.
I change the battery connector on it and when I did, I shorted the two terminals together for a big spark. But this jack-hammering cutoff was happening before that anyway. An I can't imagine went below 31.5V on a 40V charge in my first 1/10 mile.
theyerb
100 W
I'm willing to bet it's a power issue: your controller requires about 50amps of steady current when the batteries can only deliver a steady 20amps or so each. That's my guess.
Ah, I thought the 50amps meant that was the max it could supply. Didn't know that was continuous current it required from battery. If this is the case, I wouls guess my best bet would be to get a suitable controller for my BL-36 and Bosch's. Or should I go with heavy duty batteries? I'd rather swap controller.
What are the pros/Cons of each choice?
And any suggestions on a brand of controller that would suffice?
What are the pros/Cons of each choice?
And any suggestions on a brand of controller that would suffice?
theyerb
100 W
Is this the first time you've used the kit, or did you have another battery solution on the bike before? What I was referring to earlier, that your controller is rated at 50amps (most likely, continuous, not max), was a hunch but something I am pretty sure about.
If I'm correct, the most cost effective solution is to buy one or two more Bosch 36v packs. Even adding one more pack in parallel should give you around 60 amps of continuous power- enough power to get you running smoothly.
My bosch packs worked great on just two packs, but my controller is a weak little thing running at about 20amps. Yours requires much more power, and thus, more batteries. I'd add at least one more of the Bosch packs. I know... "I have to spend more money?!" It will be worth it.
Hope this is some help!
If I'm correct, the most cost effective solution is to buy one or two more Bosch 36v packs. Even adding one more pack in parallel should give you around 60 amps of continuous power- enough power to get you running smoothly.
My bosch packs worked great on just two packs, but my controller is a weak little thing running at about 20amps. Yours requires much more power, and thus, more batteries. I'd add at least one more of the Bosch packs. I know... "I have to spend more money?!" It will be worth it.
Hope this is some help!
theyerb said:
Good auction right now: http://is.gd/seyy
2 fatpacks for $95 shipped (US). That's $0.58 watt/hr ($95/164wh) for a 37v4.4ah setup that'll sustain 60a continuous all the way to LVC (in like 6 minutes under full load... haha!). If you're very conservative though you could squeeze 10mi out of them no pedaling on the flats.
That's a crazy good price for a basic <6lb pack!
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