Recent content by GregO

What are the chances that I have bought two bad controllers? Hello I am bench testing my new controller Model KT36/48ZWSRM-NBP03 and I can not get power to the motor I have a freshly charged battery. 48V 12 amp. I do have power to the controller I have the Power Plugged in RED BLACK to the...

I had an incredibly negative experience ordering kits and parts from either E-Bay or Alibaba or Amazon... only to find out that its 3 weeks to 2 months waiting for the order... and if you have to send it back it is cost prohibitive. Is there any reliable true American based source for parts that...

Throwing my hands up. LOL I have an Ebike Tester coming in +/- 3 days... until then I am going to relax and not overthink anything.I need to start from square one and properly test every aspect in a linear process. I refuse to give up. My wife says I am too relentless for my own good... but...

I imagine now I am looking for suggestion for a good throttle. My current 3 phase twist throttle has an LED indicator... not caring about that... just a solid throttle to work a 3 phase with brake disconnect hall feature This is for a 48V 500w motor. Thanks

I am inserting a thermal image closeup of my twist throttle and the LED battery indicator. I dont think it should get this hot... I think was chasing motor ghosts this whole time... when its possibly my twist throttle should an LED get this hot?

Thanks Doc... and I know there are no stupid questions... only stupid people... so here I go... I have no idea where to put my volt meter if everything is wired up and plugged in and powered.

Hey Voltron... I HOPE I found my problem... this is my motor cable, bike is ON and this is coming out of the controller it has a red/ black at the bottom. I used my volt meter and put one on black and the other on: BLU 5V Green 0 V (problem child?) Yellow 5V

I alphabetized all my leads in this pic A are the 3 lines that go to the motor i think are the Phase B is from the controller to the motor... it has Red Black at top and BGY C, D and E all run to the twist throttle F is the Battery G is the Hand Brake disconnect H is the PAS I is just a Blk...

Hey Voltron... Yeah I am sure there is not a single red wire left... I have an extra red/black for a battery meter or a headlight perhaps.. but no single red. I am starting to fear that the motor is bogus. I have no idea how to test it... and have no plans on doing that... but after I ruled...

Thanks docw009 Your picture there is spot on! Heres a better link descriptor... I have pics of course but havent put any on this forum before But I will learn to and do it now... BTW i did test the continuits on the brakes and they close the loop when the brakes are depressed. Not sure...

Hey dogman... yeah I did each thing already... coming from the motor...the black and red connectors are for power and the colored are for motor phases?? ... I imagine low, med and high speed from the throttle. This is incredible frustrating... but I have put my voltmeter on and the power is...

The leads from the breaks are 2 lines each. I iwired it as if its one large circuit, and any interuption, either from the left or the right break would break the loop stopping the motor. I also unplugged that to test it without the break disconnect and still nothing. The wiring from the motor...

Would it be Kosher for me to directly hook up the battery to the motor for a second? I dont want to fry anything though

Any help would be appreciated,,, new ebike conversion. I bought the kit from china. rear hub 48V 500W with disc brakes. I could use some input from a knowledgeable source I have everything wired up. Very good charge on my battery. Power going to throttle light "indicator lights", brakes...

Hey all.. Got all my parts in and hooked up everything. I noticed my brake/motor release has only one connector and the other is two bare wires. Do I add the two reds together and pigtail it to the red on the connector? And then do the same with the blacks? What am I missing? Also... my...