Recent content by phate

I'm planning to pick up one of the eTorque 48v belted motor/generator/alternator units from a new Ram pickup in the next couple months to mess with. I'm thinking these are likely just looking for CAN messages for control of the integrated inverter. My personal goal would be to get it spinning...

I was midway through converting a honda throttle body and TPS for use on my motorcycle when I found this from Eastgem. Pretty sure it's the same as a Mobipus part. http://www.eastgem.net/throttle-adapter.html I'm much rather run something like that (or a cut down throttle body) than mess...

I think they were getting at implementing some form of torque vectoring. I already have an Arduino running the speed controllers (brushed RC car parts) in my daughter's power wheels, so that idea has been bouncing around my mind as well.

Wait, you can reflash these things now?!? I feel like pure current mode would be a lot better for my application anyways. Does the controller still have the "soft start", or will they pretty much go full blast from the start?

That last bit has me pretty bummed out, I didn't know about that until after I bought both of my KLS7230S's. Overspeed/flux weakening would allow me to gear my motorcycle a bit lower without losing top speed. Or just leave the gearing the same and go 90mph, lol. Oh well, it got pushed back to...

The Adaptto has field weakening, right? As far as I know the Kelly's do not (and if they do, it's baked into their normal motor control and never mentioned in any of their documentation). It's possible that you're just hitting the limit of Kv * Voltage on the Kelly, and it won't go any faster...

The current plan is to fold them over and screw them down to the bus-plates. I'm also considering folding them over and clamping them down with a second plate. Edit: Actually I'm 90% sure I got the plate/slot idea after watching a video of you building a pack. So thank you for that, lol. My...

I did have the resistor in place. And I'd assume I should get continuity between positive and negative at least, right? I don't have the hall board exposed yet, I need to pull the can off for that.

It wasn't actually random, but after getting absolutely nothing when connecting power/gnd to red and black, as well as getting no continuity across basically anything, it led me to believe that the wiring is no bueno. I had also tried a few combinations mentioned when other people had miswired...

I was following these instructions: https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/knowledge-base/general-aa/39891-hall-sensor-testing-without-using-a-motor-controller I freely admit that my testing methodology could have been bad, and I currently have no idea what the actual pinout is, but just by...

Updates: Good news: Comms with the android app over bluetooth work awesome. It's possible that either my USB-RS232 adapter sucks, or the 4-pin to DB9 adapters kelly provides suck. Either way, I can reliably read/write to the thing, so that's cool. Have the blown up controller back together...

Yeah, I was trying this yesterday with a bunch of wiring combinations. I think the wiring on my halls are completely wrong, or they don't work at all.

No dice. Gonna take it apart to check the hall sensor board, but most likely I'll end up adding some new/better/working sensors.

Hopefully I can get my test bench set up again today to try a few more things myself. I just want to know this motor/controller combo is going to work so I can keep working on my bike.

The halls might want more voltage then. I'll take a stab at it tomorrow. Edit: I haven't tested the wiring this way, but people have received Alien Power motors with really wacky hall wiring. Quote below is from the VESC forums. https://vesc-project.com/node/360 Another possibility: