Recent content by scphantm

to be honest, im so disgusted right now i never looked to see where in the circuits the damn things got cut. after doing this, i figured oh well, il still mount my bags and build my harness and deal with the battery later only to find the "craftsmanship" of the fabricator i used was so poor...

That's what I figured. I just emailed ping about two new pouches

so I'm mounting my new bags and had a bit of an accident. Seems that I drilled a very neat 1/8 hole right between two pouches of my ping 48v20ah. Now what? Can I slide some paper between them, drop of hot glue to seal and hope for the best or should I replace the cells? I'm not even sure...

I need to order some new spokes for my HT3540 and i don't have the motor with me (its in another city) I can't find the spoke flange diameter to use for the spoke calculation. I have found 222, 229, and 232 so far. Does anyone have it handy so i can get these ordered before i get home? thanks

great ideas everyone, thanks. I was looking at the Electric Rider removable battery boxes and like them a lot. i just have to work out how to mount rails to a mundo frame, which shouldn't be horribly difficult. just weld up some pencil steel and bolt it on. ill give this stuff a shot. Thanks

Im running a 48v20ah ping. Problem is i live in Pennsylvania. This winter is very hard because i have to store and charge my bike in the mud room, where its only a small handful of degrees warmer outside. My range is down to about a third or quarter of what it normally is. Now i understand...

Red on lead, black on phase with dvm on diode: Yellow: rolls up to 1.998 then OL Green: holds at 1.818 Blue: rolls up to 1.998 then OL Black on lead, red on phase dvm on diode: Yellow: 0.483 Green: 0.477 Blue: 0.481 Red lead on ground, black on phase: Yellow: 0.484 Green: tone Black: 0.484...

It's a 12 fet controller. But I will give it a shot when I get home. Thanks

Ok, I will give it a shot when I get home. This is a sensor less system btw, no halls

The article I was given to read (link is in my original post) stated that you have to take them out becaus if you don't you can not control the discharge. You may be in the middle of testing and some circuit down the line triggers a discharge mucking up your test. At least that's how I read...

Well according to the article, the only way to test the fet is to take it out. If I have to take them out to test them, then Im just going to replace them. I did pull the cover off the board, nothing is burnt, nothing is obviously blown. I did take pics but the board Won't let me upload...

It started here http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=50236 I'm using a ping. Basically my leads out of the motor shorted out, guillotined by the dust cover. I replace those and now everything works except no power to the wheel. Did dr boss's little test on it and it...

I'm pretty certain one of my fets blew so I'm getting ready to replace them. I'm going with 3077's but my question is what else should I check before placing my order? Are there any other sacrificial resistors or anything I should plan on replacing or anything else? Thankd

Wel that's certainly simple enough of an explanation. Thank you. Is there anything else I can check before pulling components off the board?

i was coming home from work at full throttle a few days ago, hit a bump and i lost all power to my wheel. my APM was still on and still reading everything fine, but no power. I felt it lugging as i coasted down and knew exactly what it was as i had felt it before. some dirt built up on that...