Recent content by soeno

It lights up the braking icon but I didn't actually notice if it starts scrolling the battery like you say. I didn't notice any perceivable slowing down when the bike was freewheeling upside down, I expecting it to force stop the wheel. Because I didn't actually see anything to prove that regen...

@amberwolf Yeah, definitely have a hub drive that should be capable of it, but it's a Cyclotricity 500watt motor, although don't know the specific manufacturer/model. @j bjork The parameter is C13 on the Kunteng LCD-3. Tried all settings and it just doesn't seem to work when I've had the bike...

It has the catchy model number of KT36/48ZWSRL. It's a dual 36/48v controller (so I can future proof for a further motor/battery upgrade), but the connectors weren't the weather proof (higo?) connectors that cyclotricity tend to use, so I've done a fair bit of soldering to install it, but it...

Ah, that makes perfect sense! I'd seen conflicting reports on the net whether it was a separate control line or not. I activated the regen, shorted the brake signal together, and the brake indicator lit on the LCD, but the wheel just coasted to a stop, not a forced stop I would have expected...

Hey :D So I've recently swapped out a 500w KT controller from Cyclotricity with a similar KT controller which is 1500w dual 36/48v (KT36/48ZWSRL) so that I could use it with a KT-LCD3 and get cruise control... The controller is sold as having regen capability (and the setting is there in the C...

Hi! Just to give you a quick update with this, a couple of weeks ago I replaced Cyclotricity's controller with another KT controller, and I've now got full power control using the KT-LCD3, perhaps unsurprisingly. My guess is Cyclotricity are running custom firmware on their controllers and...

Thanks for the reply; that sounds about right to me. A 36v 10A controller will top out around 420 watt (10*42v), so in theory my 11A controller should do 440 watt, possibly more with the peak rated at 22A. You're right to think it might be subjective, I confirmed it by taking both controllers...

I just wanted to add that my controller is a Kunteng KT36ZWSRM-GP05, rated at 11A with a maximum current of 22 ± 1A. -Soen

Well, PAS requires me to pedal. So I want to be ultra lazy and not pedal, but not have to keep my thumb on the throttle as well. -Soen

Hi! Complete newbie here, so please bear with me... I converted my MTB over to a hub RWD ebike back in January with the 500 watt kit from Cyclotricity. It's great and everything works very nicely... but... I recently wanted to change from the KT-LCD1 to the KT-LCD3, so that I could get cruise...