Recent content by synthrider

Ok I need a controller that doesn't require hall sensors (mine are fried, or wiring is shorted - don't want to mess with either way, hard to access). Also need something fairly cheap, and that will ideally accommodate both the stock 24V10ah and an upgraded 36V10ah battery (doesn't have to do it...

Some more impressions after riding it a little while: - Frame is just a little too cramped... Esp. if you're tall. I don't feel it much on short rides, but its noticeable if going more than 5mi.. if I could do it over I would upgrade one model and get the Voltage 500GT 3, which has a roomier...

What's the make/model of yours?

Thx everyone for responses. For those curious, the scooter is a little "schwinn 650" with 650 Watt Currie motor (got on craigslist for $200). It has a 24V 30 Amp Currie controller (http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/s500controller.html). The stock battery is an SLA pack made of two 12v12Ah...

Hi guys, I have this Lithium Ion battery: http://www.bmsbattery.com/36v/17-36v-lithium-ion-little-frog-abs-shell-ebike-battery-pack.html It works great but I wasn't sure about the battery indicator (seems like it should read "low" more often than it does...). I tested it fully charged with my...

For folks who were curious... I got this bike/scooter, came yesterday... I rode it once for about 5 miles... Here are some first impressions: Good: - Neat looking and nicely sized frame, a bit thinner and lighter than a standard scooter but not miniature by any means - Good suspension. Ride...

I don't know if the hall sensors work or not. It's that or wiring. I was doing the test wrong at first, but the halls failed to toggle as expected even when I did it right. I am going to move on to the continuity tests outlined above (thx NeilP) - - - Does anyone have any thoughts about...

Thx for bearing with me... can you please read what I did, and if I screwed up, rephrase how to do the continuity test? I set it in continuity mode and tested between the different hall wires (not hooked up to anything except the motor, no power source etc.)... Everything read "0.F" except...

Hi itchynackers thx for the advice, I do have a multimeter with continuity mode... Can you please rephrase where to place the probes? I think I follow that the basic idea is to test between the plug-end (easily accessible) and the motor-end... There is only one thick wire coming out of the...

I redid the test just as above (thanks NeilP!). I was giving it about 4.5V with three AA batteries. None of the colored hall wires performed as expected when I turned the wheel. They were all at 0 or just a little over when stationary, and at most went up to maybe .2V. So it's either the...

Here's what I just tried: I plugged the throttle in. Unplugged the hall connection entirerly. Then I tried doing the following with all 6 possible ways of connecting the three phase wires (yellow to yellow, blue to blue, green to green; Y to B, G to G, B to Y, etc...): 1) I turned the power...

Hi guys, Here's the history: motor stopped responding, first intermittently, then permanently. I thought the most likely culprit was the stock controller, so I tried putting in a programmable Lyen: 6 FET 3077 Mark II Mini Monster LYEN Edition Controller. Problem is, still couldn't get it to...

Howdy. I'm dealing with a very similar situation right now, except its less intermittent at this stage... One thing that has been very helpful are the following directions to do a Hall Sensor test (you don't have to tear things apart really, but you do need a voltmeter)...

I was thinking the same thing :)

It's an hour away and I don't have a car, so I have to line something up with my motorist friends. I haven't seen it yet but will post here when I do. Thx :)