Emmo Knight Turbo upgrades

D0XX

D0XX

10 mW
Joined
Apr 20, 2025
Messages
26
Location
Ontario, Canada
i posted in PWD's thread

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Emmo Knight (Grom clone) salvage

So I just acquired an Emmo Knight Turbo: Emmo (if you aren't familiar) are a run-of-the-mill cheap Chinese made scooter/motorcycle style ebike we have hear in Canada which are sold under different brands world wide. EDIT: I also see that this is the common Grom clone style of ebike; which is a...
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but im going to post here aswell
im looking to upgrade my emmo knight turbo its not in rough shape or anything it had lead acid batteries and wont go up hills that well even without me on it and the governor off it still struggles.

im thinking:

a new motor
a new controller
lithium upgrade (later on)


will help me out immensely.

im trying to use PWD's salvage build as a guide but im no where near as skilled as he is with this kind of stuff. i was told a new controller would help but the wrong amps would burn out the motor and batteries i have now.

which is what brings me here.


im at a crossroad as to what i should be doing with this, again, nothing wrong with the bike, its just a little slow up hills and it wont make it out of my P2 garage at the building i live at. it also makes it an issue to drive on the road too because it tops out at 21km/h im looking to get it up to 65km/h at the LEAST, but 100km/h is my goal. same bike as PWD, different year.

i guess what im trying to say is what do i need to upgrade it to get it faster given the fact that its still usable and things are in good condition. i get confused following the other thread. sorry for the long post.
 
A lithium battery should deliver a noticeable power increase versus a lead acid battery. Moreso if the lead acid battery is aged ( they tend to last only 3 years.. )
 
neptronix said:
A lithium battery should deliver a noticeable power increase versus a lead acid battery. Moreso if the lead acid battery is aged ( they tend to last only 3 years
Click to expand...
I’ll try getting that first and I’ll report back


I’m warning you it will take a while but I promise I will post again with results and I appreciate the guidance on step 1
 
I would flip your priority order, 1 battery, 2 controller, 3 motor.
I might add that I'm not familiar with your bike, but that is the order that normally gets the best result. People often get it the other way around though, thinking that changing motor will be a good upgrade when it is the other 2 that is too weak.
It can however be a good idea to change battery and controller at the same time to go up in voltage.
 
j bjork said:
I would flip your priority order, 1 battery, 2 controller, 3 motor.
I might add that I'm not familiar with your bike, but that is the order that normally gets the best result. People often get it the other way around though, thinking that changing motor will be a good upgrade when it is the other 2 that is too weak.
It can however be a good idea to change battery and controller at the same time to go up in voltage.
Click to expand...

would i need the controller right away a good Li-Ion is like 800$ well a decent one

thank you again
 
As long as you're sticking to the original voltage, the controller should be fine.
If you are going up in voltage, you need to double check what the maximum voltage rating of the MOSFETs and capacitors are on your original controller ( this involves opening it up ) to see if it will tolerate what the fully charged battery voltage would be + give it some headroom, at least 3v..
 
ok im using amazon for just basically the same parts but upgraded i opened it up today and got a good idea of what im dealing with and i need to know about a battery thats all
 
I also vote for upgrading the battery first - get the largest, best performing pack you can fit and afford. Since you are new to upgrades etc... I recommend taking the time to understand battery terminology and ohms law etc... so you can make choices that suit your needs (performance, budget, skill etc...) From what I recall; the motor on these bikes have a fairly low rpm/volt that will likely top at at around 60 km/h with a fully charged 72V battery pack.

hey PWD i recently came across an emmo knight turbo same sortof deal with you i bought it used and i need a bit more power out of it so far ive concluded i need:

3000W (at least) motor
controller
and possibly a new lithium battery

i know im going to be upgrading the battery either way (its pretty old idc lol) so i know this thread is chalked with more than enough knowledge if i just read but im still looking for ANY help i can get.

im mostly confused about the controller and how to program it, and do i need an LCD screen even? i know for battery for sure but speed im not fussy about but id like to know how uch battery life is left yadda yadda, i also dont want to burn out the contorller or motor ...

and bonus points for wheel/tire comp. im getting a 12in hub motor for it so it SHOULD just be a matter of swapping the tire off but i could be wrong
Click to expand...

Depending on the controller; some can be programmed via bluetooth on a mobile device - both the Fardriver and 3Shul I used could be; at the very least the controller can be programmed via a PC via usb cable. You definitely don't need a a display; but having the bare minimum like battery voltage and speedometer is what I would start with.
 
Ok so battery I went with 72v 40ah but i know I’ll need a controller for those specs for sure I’m rethinking the one I have now to get the Bluetooth one your mentioning


Does it HAVE to be programmed or could I just buy one and run it stock for 40ah
 
D0XX said:
Ok so battery I went with 72v 40ah but i know I’ll need a controller for those specs for sure I’m rethinking the one I have now to get the Bluetooth one your mentioning


Does it HAVE to be programmed or could I just buy one and run it stock for 40ah
Click to expand...
The controller doesn't care what capacity your battery is (40ah for example). The battery should be able to comfortably deliver enough current to meet the controller's maximum battery current specification or you will have to program the controller to a lower maximum battery current so it doesn't damage or trip any safety mechanisms on the battery such as a maximum current protection.
 
im going to go with a 50-80a controller so theres a bit of a cushion like it wouldnt ever top 40ah but its still got that extra space to jump if needed or prevent overheating and other damage
 
You're still mixing Amperes (A) with Ampere-hours (Ah).

In a well designed system, the battery should fail last. Ideally the controller would fry itself, or the motor, before the battery got dangerously overloaded. Practically speaking that would require a really oversized battery, though, so we rely on the BMS instead - at least the ones that do.
 
Can the 40ah battery provide 1C of power, or 40a? Did the manuf. list C rating?

.

Edited for verbose content.
 
Last edited:
so i believe my controller i picked will do fine, its still 50a but the battery is a 40ah.


my understanding is that with a bit of headroom it should be fine without the need to tweak / program it, but i do have a programmable controller if need be but im hoping to get it running just like that out of the box.

heres the big problem.

the battery is one of those cheap ones from amazon that are blue plastic on the outside so im not sure if it will melt or if its even good, if you search "72v 40ah ebike battery" on amazon.ca youll find it right away. i dont know where else to turn for an affordable option. i dont want to break the bank on this one. there is though another website for batteries that im not quite sure of
 
D0XX said:
Ah I read is like the fuel or how long it will run for right
Click to expand...
A better equivalent unit for that is kWh, so Watt-hours. This is a unit of energy. There's also a dedicated unit for energy, J (Joules). Ah is a weird compound unit that doesn't include the battery voltage, so on its own is totally meaningless when discussing battery capacity.

Amperes, not having the time component, are all about the instantaneous current. The controller current rating is what the controller can pull from the battery. A larger capacity battery can typically provide more current, but that's not always the case. Every battery should have a current rating in addition to its capacity rating. The current rating can also be combined with the nominal voltage to obtain the battery power rating.

For example, a 40Ah battery could have 1C current rating (common for low-end cells). 1C is a relative unit of "1 capacity per hour", and the "C-rating" remains relatively constant across battery capacities using the same cells. Thus, for a battery of 40Ah capacity, the 1C rating translates to 40A max current. If that's a nominally 48V battery, you can just multiply those together to get 1920W (1.92kW) of nominal power, or 1.92kWh (1920Wh) of energy.

High-end cells can have peak current ratings as high as 10C or more, translating to 50+A per cell, and many hundred Amperes per the battery.
 
So here kindof a “bad” question if they’re made in china whatever no hate would an Aliexpress battery with the right specs be fine? The one I was gonna use on Amazon was a scam big time after I read reviews
 
D0XX said:
So here kindof a “bad” question if they’re made in china whatever no hate would an Aliexpress battery with the right specs be fine? The one I was gonna use on Amazon was a scam big time after I read reviews
Click to expand...
If you can guarantee that the battery does indeed meet specifications that you paid for, and doesn't skimp on cell-level and pack level safety, and if you're sure that the cells aren't rejects or otherwise compromised that would cause them to fail or degrade prematurely, it can be "fine".

Can you?
 
Maybe share the battery listing your thinking about to help others evaluate?

@bananu7 #18 comment on C-rating is a big help for conceptually bridging the units of A and Ah.

A direct example, though disclaimer I don't work for this company nor do I own one. Though, it looks like an alright kit by their specifications (spec).
This battery's spec capacity is 27Ah. The spec also lists "Max Continuous Discharge current" at 80A and the ability to do a "Max discharge peak current" of 160A for 5 sec. That gives it ~3C continuous, and ~6C momentary C-ratings.

batteryevo.com

72V Lithium Golf Cart Battery - 2.1 kWh - BatteryEVO Falcon G2

Get powerful performance with the FALCON G2 72V Lithium Golf Cart Battery, 2.1 kWh. Ideal for long-lasting power. Shop BatteryEVO for reliable golf cart batteries.
batteryevo.com batteryevo.com

So, the 72v 40A battery you described could be capable of delivering more than 2C (80A) for the controller you mention. Knowing that relies on knowing the manuf. rated constant and momentary current capacity. If it were me, I would determine these attributes before making any purchase.
 
Last edited:



or





 
jkrienert said:
Maybe share the battery listing your thinking about to help others evaluate?

@bananu7 #18 comment on C-rating is a big help for conceptually bridging the units of A and Ah.

A direct example, though disclaimer I don't work for this company nor do I own one. Though, it looks like an alright kit by their specifications (spec).
This battery's spec capacity is 27Ah. The spec also lists "Max Continuous Discharge current" at 80A and the ability to do a "Max discharge peak current" of 160A for 5 sec. That gives it ~3C continuous, and ~6C momentary C-ratings.

batteryevo.com

72V Lithium Golf Cart Battery - 2.1 kWh - BatteryEVO Falcon G2

Get powerful performance with the FALCON G2 72V Lithium Golf Cart Battery, 2.1 kWh. Ideal for long-lasting power. Shop BatteryEVO for reliable golf cart batteries.
batteryevo.com batteryevo.com

So, the 72v 40A battery you described could be capable of delivering more than 2C (80A) for the controller you mention. Knowing that relies on knowing the manuf. rated constant and momentary current capacity. If it were me, I would determine these attributes before making any purchase.
Click to expand...


this is such a serious find though man, thank you but im in canada
 
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