Looks like dogman had the right idea. After taking a break from working on the bike over the winter, I finally got back to working on it. Brought all the electronics into the house (out of the garage) and shorted the wires from the key switch. Works perfectly. Then if I remove my wire and just...
I hooked up all the parts today and when I turn the throttle, there is no response. The motor doesn't go, there's no noise, nothing. Here's the setup:
Hall effect throttle
24v 250watt controller
Two 12v SLA batteries in series
Key switch
24v 250watt MY1018 brushed motor (mid drive)
The only bad...
Alright, I'll definitely use black/red for the battery and blue/red for the motor. Thanks.
For the throttle, I know the throttle I have is a hall effect one, is there a chance that the controller uses a different type of throttle? And where can I find instructions on measuring it with a...
I found this online:
http://www.electricscooterparts.com/hookup/SPD-24250.htm
it isn't exactly the same controller as mine, but it looks pretty close. It says that the female connector is the motor, which is what I suspected. The other thing I'm unsure of is about my throttle. The throttle on my...
The picture on the website isn't the same colour as mine, it has red/black and the other is brown/blue, whereas on mine they are red/black and the other is blue/red. Judging by other controllers, I am guessing the red and black is for the battery and the other one (which seems to have a variety...
I have a 24v 250w brushed motor controller that just arrived but the motor and battery plugs aren't labeled. I guess the assumption is that I'm putting into an actual electric bike, rather than using it to make my own. There are two pairs of wires, black and red, and blue and red. The blue and...
Ah, thanks. I'm sure you can tell, this is my first bike conversion project so I'm learning. I'm also 15. I got some 20, 30, and 40 amp fuses today so I'll start with the 20, if it blows a lot then I'll switch to 30, etc.
Should it go on the positive or negative side of the batteries? Or does it matter? I know there would be a tiny bit more current on the negative side, contrary to conventional current flow, but I don't imagine it would matter which side I put it on...
Also, should I put the fuse between the batteries and the controller, or the motor and the controller? Or both? I'm thinking if the motor overheats or gets struck or the wires break or something, then it would ruin the controller.
Alright, thanks. In terms of a fuse holder, I was thinking of using an automotive fuse and avoiding a holder all together. Then I could just slide spade connectors onto it and just have it in the middle of the wiring. I'll try a 20 amp duse first and move to 30 if it blows.
I'm making a 24 volt, 250 watt bike with a brushed mid drive motor. I'm wondering if it' nescessary to have a fuse, and what the rating should be. My controller doesn't have a plug to attach a fuse, so I'd assume I just put it in series with my batteries. For a 24v 250w system would a 20 amp...
It's a 24v system. I'm getting a digital meter to mount on the handlebars but I need to know when to stop running. My controller doesn't have low voltage shutoff. I've looked at other controllers for 24v systems and they shut off at 20v. That would mean both batteries are at 10v. I've heard you...
I have two questions that are basically the same. I'm 15 making my first electric bike and I'm using a 24v 250 watt brushed motor (it's the MY1018) and I was originally looking at this controller:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190898620052?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
It is...
I'm getting this controller for my 24v bike.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/24V-250W-motor-brush-controller-EV-Electric-bicycle-scooter-E-Bike-/190898620052?hash=item2c7271c694
My motor is a 250 watt MY1018 brushed geared motor. There isn't much info about this controller but there are many identical...
I ended up getting a custom steel bracket. I wasn't happy that it was being held on with only two screws with the aluminum bracket and I also wanted to mount it differently on the bike. I'm putting the motor in the triangle and the batteries on a homemade pannier rack thing on the back of the...
If I fully discharge them, will I still be able to charge them back up on the 2 amp setting though? Just a thought… Because the only other setting is 10A which I think is to much for them no matter what the state of charge is.
Thanks, I should have included that. Hope you find interest in it! Remember there won't be much until Friday because that's when i get my bike back. Unless I get my speed controller in the mail, then I can hook it all up and test it.
I am 15, and making my first electric bike. It is a 24v system, using the MY1018 motor. I have two brand new 12v 12Ah SLA batteries. My bike is currently in a shop getting a new crank but I'll have it back on friday. Then I'll be able to mount the motor permanently and once my speed controller...
Ok, thanks. It's always good to hear from someone who has practical experience with almost an identical situation as what I'm asking about. I read somewhere that charging AGM batteries (which is what I have) above the specified current can cause them to sulphate and/or cause them to hold less...
So the reason it kept jumping down to "not charged" was because they're still new and need to be charged a few times? Also I just was doing some research and found that there's some rule about charging at 1/10th the capacity. So for me, 12Ah divided by 10 leaves 1.2 amps. So I'm supposed to...
Today I charged both of my lead acid batteries individually. I had it on the 2 amp setting. When they were fully charged the green light came on and the needle was at 100% charged. I measured the voltage before charging with an analog DC meter and it was 12ish and post-charge it was 13ish. The...