1/8th Mile Times For Higher Power Bikes?

[ZOMGVTEK]

I know Doc was at the track a few times, but who else has taken an e-bike to a track and has some real numbers?
I did two runs on the iOS Dynolicious App, since one was slightly uphill, and one was downhill. Starting and stopping in the same area, roughly a constant grade the duration.

Downhill

Uphill

The controller was set to 60A, it draws about 65-70A cont. 24S pack is at relatively low SOC at the time.

Here is the available data thats averaged from the two runs. The runs were basically consistent with what I would expect, and both had exactly the same peak G's. One claimed 5HP the other said 4. Clearly it's not designed for a bicycle, but its about what I might expect to see, putting nearly 7KW in.

Acceleration:
0-10 MPH: 1.41 sec
0-20 MPH: 3.02 sec
0-30 MPH: 5.25 sec
0-40 MPH: 8.86 sec

Elapsed Time:
60': 3.48 sec @ 20.7 MPH
330': 9.06 sec @ 39.6 MPH
1/8 mi: 14.30 sec @ 44.5 MPH

Miscellaneous:
Max Speed: 46.7 MPH
Max Acceleration: 0.44 G's
Peak Horsepower: 4 HP

I bring this up, since 14.3 @ 44.5 is a bit faster than I might expect out of my little commuter. Are these figures realistic? The App was set to 0 rollout, and .06G trigger. It's dark and wet outside now, but I can find a bit more open road later and take it up to 1/4 mile. The times won't be that useful, since my slow bike tops out right around the 1/8th mile...

 

[Doctorbass]

Here is some proof for my real numbers: :wink:


KMX TYPHOON 2011 etrike:
so my best 1/8 mile is 12.300 sec with the kmx limited to max 48mph

My best 0-60ft: 2.564sec




Giant DH comp 2010 ebike:
I did in the high 19sec 1/4 mile !!!

Recorded speed at the 1/4 mile line: 61.3MPH with 76A current limit on the controller.

1st run:
top speed at 1/4 mile line: 61.32MPH
top speed at end of the lane: 65MPH
0-60 ft: 2.794sec
1/4 mile time: 19.935sec
reaction time: 1.219sec
conditions: charged to 4.15 per lipo cell, motor at 32 celsius

2nd run:
top speed at 1/4 mile line: 61.19MPH
top speed at end of the lane: 64MPH
0-60 ft: 2.585sec
1/4 mile time: 19.875 sec
reaction time: 0.801sec
conditions: charged to 4.10 per lipo cell motor at 56 celsius

3rd run:
top speed at 1/4 mile line: 60.46MPH
top speed at end of the lane: not recorded
0-60 ft: 2.627
1/4 mile time: 19.930 sec
reaction time: 0.615
conditions: not recharged since 2nd run, motor at 67 celsius


MONGOOSE 5305 2009 ebike
Last year on 3 may 2009 i tried first time my Mongoose setup and did in the 25sec at 67km/h
Time slip:
- recorded 67.9km/h (1/4mile)
-reaction: 1.064
-60FT: 3.032sec
-1/8 mile 14.385sec at 66.8kph
-1/4 mile time 25.093sec at 67.9sec
- head wind of 46 km/h TOO HIGH !
Doc

 

[ZOMGVTEK]

Those times aren't bad Doc. What kind of power were you running to get that?

You really killed me getting off the line. Almost a second faster 60' time! My motor shakes a bit when you slam it WOT from a stop, it has something to do with the halls being slightly misaligned or the magnets being weak, possibly both.

 

[Doctorbass]

Those times aren't bad Doc. What kind of power were you running to get that?

You really killed me getting off the line. Almost a second faster 60' time! My motor shakes a bit when you slam it WOT from a stop, it has something to do with the halls being slightly misaligned or the magnets being weak, possibly both.

I usually run pover 200A burst on the C-A.. and sometime close to 300A.. direct in these X5

The glue they put on the lane at the drag really help!.. otherwise the rear tire slip alot!

Doc

 

[zombiess]

2.5 sec 60' from a bicycle LOL... that's so awesome. I know people with car's that struggle to get a 2.5 sec 60' and they have lot's of mods.

 

[Doctorbass]

here is the proof :wink: but only my worst run was filmed...
(murphy's law... :lol: )

[youtube]J2IDJKClDCA[/youtube]

Doc

 

[zombiess]

I don't know if you had traction issues or not, but it's best to line the drive wheel up in the groove since it will have the most traction... unless your track allows the front wheel drive ricers on street tires to do their useless burn outs that drag water to the start line... clueless idiots.

The sticky compound they put down is VHT and a well prepped track will suck your shoe off and then your sock when you lose balance and put it down, seen it happen a few times.

If my bicycle was fast enough I'd try and run it here at the Vegas track for kicks.

 

[Jay64]

reaction time: 0.615

Very nice reaction time Doc. :wink:

I'm hoping to take my bike down to the 1/8th mile drag strip by my house if I get it done. I gotta see if they will let me run it. Usually they have the motorcycles line up seperate from the cars. There usually aren't too many motorcycles, so I think they might let me run with them.

 

[Doctorbass]

reaction time: 0.615

Very nice reaction time Doc. :wink:

I'm hoping to take my bike down to the 1/8th mile drag strip by my house if I get it done. I gotta see if they will let me run it. Usually they have the motorcycles line up seperate from the cars. There usually aren't too many motorcycles, so I think they might let me run with them.

I'm sure you can!

Jacques the owner of the Pont Rouge Drag racing allow me since 2008 to try for free when they are open. I repaired one of his Voltfreak LiFePO4 drag racing light battery and i thing he appreciated!

He also give me many great advices. This is the guy you can see on the video above that redirect me on the right side of the lane for having better grip with teh rear wheel of my e-trike.

Doc

 

[liveforphysics]

I don't know if you had traction issues or not, but it's best to line the drive wheel up in the groove since it will have the most traction... unless your track allows the front wheel drive ricers on street tires to do their useless burn outs that drag water to the start line... clueless idiots.

The sticky compound they put down is VHT and a well prepped track will suck your shoe off and then your sock when you lose balance and put it down, seen it happen a few times.

If my bicycle was fast enough I'd try and run it here at the Vegas track for kicks.

I see more RWD morons go through the water on street tires than FWD guys. My rear wheels pass through the water box locked always, and only pick-up water on the bottom side. My favorites are the street-tire mustang/camaro guys who need to go through the water because they can't burn-out otherwise... Yet for some reason they think they need to...

Also, your RWD car front wheels get all wet, and then stage dripping water right where I have to launch from... Your front wheels also drip water right in the path your rear wheels have to take.

 

[zombiess]

I don't know if you had traction issues or not, but it's best to line the drive wheel up in the groove since it will have the most traction... unless your track allows the front wheel drive ricers on street tires to do their useless burn outs that drag water to the start line... clueless idiots.

The sticky compound they put down is VHT and a well prepped track will suck your shoe off and then your sock when you lose balance and put it down, seen it happen a few times.

If my bicycle was fast enough I'd try and run it here at the Vegas track for kicks.

I see more RWD morons go through the water on street tires than FWD guys. My rear wheels pass through the water box locked always, and only pick-up water on the bottom side. My favorites are the street-tire mustang/camaro guys who need to go through the water because they can't burn-out otherwise... Yet for some reason they think they need to...

Also, your RWD car front wheels get all wet, and then stage dripping water right where I have to launch from... Your front wheels also drip water right in the path your rear wheels have to take.

RWD retards on street tires make me want to punch them in the dick. LVMS is setup so you can drive around the water, but every redneck in a 17 second truck or 15 second Mustang/Camaro/modern Dodge POS feels they have to do huge burnouts. As you know street tires only require a quick scrub and NO WATER!

BTW, I run MT drag radials in the rear and skinnies in the front, but I almost always drive around the water box (because my front tires have tread) and then back in so I don't have to worry about dripping water period The problems with retards at the track on street nights were so bad they stopped using the water box which made the FWD crowd cry because it's quite hard to do a burnout without the water, same goes for the idiots you described. The real racers were never the problem (FWD or RWD), just the street tire tards doing 10+ second burnouts in the water Thanks for skidding the rears, that's really considerate of you, please teach others!

Once they got rid of the water the track stayed a lot nicer and didn't effect my burnouts at all. I usually do a 3-4 sec burnout with 160mph tire speed when I roll out, dry or wet

But back on topic, DoctorBass, if you do a burnout again, keep it really short as the tire compound most likely doesn't work well with heat, just clean the tire off for 2-3 seconds and it should be good.

P.S. Luke, my bias against FWD cars is because that's what most people try to run here on a street night and they really screw up the track. They are stupid kids who won't listen, act like animals and drive cars that constantly break and oil down the track. It got so bad they talked about banning FWD cars because they always oiled down the track several times a night and wouldn't pull over and stop. Not to mention many were in gangs. Over 80% of oil downs were FWD cars almost all slower than 13 seconds.

 

[liveforphysics]

Here is a video of me breaking right on the line and oiling down the track. This would have been another pass in the 10's if a 3" chunk of sleeve of cylinder #4 in the block didn't decide to shatter at 10,000rpm right as I launched. lol

But instantly after the launch when I know something broke, I'm hard on the brakes and off to the side and stopped rather than rolling a foot further than needed.

I know exactly the dip-wads you're talking about though, and we have loads of them at our tracks as well.

At the end of a big import event, the safety crew puts the box of tranny and engine parts they collected out on a table and you can pick them up. lol Lots of piston pieces and block pieces, broken teeth from gears and pieces of tranny cases, lots of CV axle parts, and generally somebodies shift linkage assembly or something where you're just left thinking hmm...

[youtube]CFsigR4Upq4[/youtube]

 

[zombiess]

There is always parts carnage trying to go fast. Thankfully ebikes are cheaper to fix.

 

[liveforphysics]

There is always parts carnage trying to go fast. Thankfully ebikes are cheaper to fix.

Amen to that! If my entire bike just burns to ashes on the ground, it's like, ehh, that was still the cheapest race I've ever done.

 

[Josh K.]

Hey Guys,

Sounds good. Come on out to Portland International Raceway, During the HPV days, where they run some E bike races.

We did a open class event time trial event on the 1/8th mile track.

Running an E Tek at 50 volts, with a 500 amp controller, and a 62 tooth chainring, I went through the finish line
still pedaling and accelerating at almost 75 miles an hour. 11.9 second 1/8th mile, with timing equipment.

I think it was in the 30 hp area, and it will take some fairing work to break the 80 mile an hour goal...

We are getting into the worlds fastest indian type of stuff now folks!

Glad to see some other folks with interest in pushing the limits of off road racing.

Josh K.

 

[Doctorbass]

Ok my last 1/8 time are in the 11s !

I will post the time slip soon. best was 11.7s with 12.4kW on a 1/8 with the last 1/16 that have a hill climb ! so not comparable with regular 100% flat 1/8 strip^.