1000w mac kit

F

flanders

100 mW
Joined
Jul 8, 2011
Messages
36
Location
staffs, uk
Hi, I am new around here, but I have decided I have to convert my old mtb to an ebike! :)

I have decided to get the 1000w 36v mac rear geared kit from cellman if he ever checks his emails :(

Anyway this can be run at 36v or 48v? I am gonna power it with some hk lipos, probably start with 36V as this can get me upto 28mph according to cellmans site, which is enough for me :)

on his site he lists 2 controllers for this kit, either IRFB3077 upto 48V or the IRFB4110 upto 72V, can anyone recommend which one to go for? I have no idea of the price difference and cellman must be to busy to reply :(

also the standard kit is for the 6T motor for 400rpm, I am a bit on the heavy side at around 240lbs+, there are a few hills around here but none very steep, I am wondering whether to go for the 6T motor or maybe the 8 or 10?

Also would love to hear from anyone else using one of these kits? I can not seem to find anyone here with the 1000w just the older? 500W kit which does sound good.

Thanks for any help,

Stu
 
Guy must be still getting slammed with orders.. so OK, i'll bite.

Check my build thread. I have the 320rpm '500w' rear motor in a 26" wheel. On 10S ( 38v nominal ) i go up to 27mph fully charged no pedal, 24mph at the end of the charge, and 29-30 with pedaling.

So 36v is damn good with these motors, and they are torquey as hell too..

48v would get you between 30 and 35mph top speed.

The 3077 FET models are more efficient and can handle more amps, also put out less heat, BUT i believe they can't go over 72v, so you are limited to about 17S lipo ( 17 x 4.2 = 71.4v fully charged ) or 15S ( 52v / 63v fully charged ) to be safe within the limits..

The 4110's have a max rating of 100V i think so 72v operation ( 20S = 84v fully charged ) is totally safe.
But honestly 72v on these motors is super overkill. You won't be able to pump in enough amps to maintain speed over ~40mph.

The 9FET works OK if you're going to do 35 amps or less. I find that to be a good amp rating for mine at least. The '1000w' motor has a high speed rating and will gulp amps for breakfast, 40a or more, so you need a 12FET for that.

I wouldn't recommend that motor, i think the 320rpm turn is better for you. I am 240lbs also, and it just has the right combination of torque and speed to get me up the local gnarly hills at 20+mph..... on 36 volts! ( while pedaling of course. )
 
Yeah I am thinking of getting just the motor from him. I originally have the bmc 1kw version and love it. In terms of windings for speed, if you really want to be in the 40mph club, you will definitely need the hot winding (1000kw version). I plan to use it as backup.

If you want something reliable, I would go for the crystalyte hs3540 with 72v setup, you can get into the 40mph club in flats without wind. They are also more hardy and can take abuse much better that the bmc/Mac. Some people here might disagree, but not having to change the gears down the road will really save you a headache. Also there is no need to grease the gears since the crystalute does not have internal gears like the bmc/Mac.

If you do go for the hot windings, just take care in not putting too much power into it. Get a CA and only put at most 1.3kw during the hill climb. 1.7kw will be fine on flats. The rule of thumb is that you should lot be putting too much energy into the motor at low speed. I.e. if you go slow, you should be imputing less power. If you are going fast the go ahead and put more power into it. The physics behind it is if you put a lot of power into it during low speed, it is all going to heat. However at higher speed you are putting the power out as mechanical power.
 
I've had a short ride on one of the Mac's, the speed version at 48v. I was not impressed with off the line torque, but it was fast. I tend to lean a lot more toward getting the slow motor and running it at 48v, with any hubmotor, vs getting the fast windings. A slow motor on 12 more volts just performs better all around to me. If you are looking for raw speed, then overvolt the crap out of a direct drive motor. By the time you are running 3000 watts, you don't feel like it's slow off the line anymore. :twisted:

I would think a mac in the torque version, run at 48v would pull off the line nice, climb nice, and still go fast enough, (25-30mph). But I can't say so from experience.
 
I"m really interested in getting the 500w normal version, that Nep has. At 175lbs and being a road cyclist (I can put out my own good watts :D ) I think I would have a blast on it with 54v nominal. That would be the setup I would go for long term for myself. Having 35mph ability would be very nice for when I need to mix with city traffic, though I would keep it at 20-25mph most of the time for efficiency. I was out on the roadie tonight and even 21mph feels like a decent speed on the flats. It's definitely good transportation speed.

Durability on such geared motors is only an issue (from what I gather and know about how power/resistance works) if you are the type of rider who rides it like a 14 yr old kid showing off to his friends (full throttle starts and steep climbs with no pedaling, and weighing on the heavier end).
 
The problem with slightly fast motor is that once you get a taste for the speed. You will want more. I use to run my bmc v3 on 36v and it gave me around 27-28mph tops on flat. At this point I wanted to go faster and eventually upgraded to 48v. Noe it can get 38-39mph on flat with no head wind. But even that is a bit sloe for me. I plan to up the voltage to see if I can hit 45mph solid. It is only human nature, you just want to go faster. :) if you are those type of people that can resist the urge to speed then I think you are better set with high torque version since hill climb will not burn out your motor.
 
Bear in mind though, that above 20-30 mph depending on local vehicle statutes, and you are most likely riding a homemade unlicenced un insured motorcycle. So you might want to see what those tickets cost, just in case you get em.

90% of the USA, faux pedal when you see a cop, on an ebike that looks like a bike, and they ignore you. Just be doing the posted speed limit or less. A 25-30 mph ebike gets ingored pretty much. 40 mph club and you start getting the wtf? looks from drivers, and no doubt, from cops too.
 
Another +1 for the 500w 320rpm motor is that it will easily do 25mph on 36v. Throw 48v on the sucker and it will do low 30mph figures.

On lipo, with it's slopey discharge curve, i start out at 27mph and end at 24mph no-pedal with 10S. Pedaling, i can increase that speed to 28-30mph.
From what i hear, the "1000w" motor has the same power handling capability of the "500w" version.

The lower the speed of the motor, the more torque it will have per X amount of given amps. That is why the super high power guys are using hub motors that do 10-15mph on 36v and run 72-200 volts on them.
 
Hi Guys,

I'm currently using an ebike we set looks like Neptronix set up. The battery pack is located in the middle of the frame; I use a 21 Amps 53 Volt Konions pack. The motor is the MAC 320 RPM with grey gears and the controller is 12 Fets 4110 controller I have turned down the power a little because I use this ebike for Fitness.

The top speed is around 30-35 Mph fast enough for a hard tail ebike. I'm really happy with my set up and I really love it but don’t get me wrong. An important thing to know, If you want to smoke car and leaving them in the dust this set up is not for you or anybody with the same ideas in mind.

I hope its help, good day!
Black Arrow
 
To beat cars you need to feed it lots of amps to get more torque.
Give it 40+ amps and it will beat most cars off the line until about 20-30mph.

If you want something with motorcycle power, the MAC is not the motor to go with. It's fast. but it's more of an efficient sport compact car than a Corvette :)

Reliability issues of a geared motor aside, this is best deal out there for a mid-power setup.
 
neptronix said:
To beat cars you need to feed it lots of amps to get more torque.
Give it 40+ amps and it will beat most cars off the line until about 20-30mph..
Click to expand...
Yep but you will need a new motor soon or later with this kind of power :lol:

neptronix said:
If you want something with motorcycle power, the MAC is not the motor to go with..
Click to expand...
Exactly my point :wink:

neptronix said:
Reliability issues of a geared motor aside, this is best deal out there for a mid-power setup.
Click to expand...
Your read my mind may be my next winter project :D :wink:

Good day!
Black Arrow
 
Actually i have ran 42 amps constant to the motor for long periods of time, IE up a ~5% incline for about 5 miles. It handles it like a friggin' champion. Did this on a regular basis but decided to tone down the amps for efficiency and saving the spokes, lol.

Only problem is that the stock phase wires can't handle it. They need a BMC-style upgrade from the stock 16ga. to 13ga. or lower.
 
well my 1000w mac kit should be on its way soon! :) I went for the 320 rpm version with 12 fet controller

I have ordered 4 5000mah 6s zippy lipos from HK :) and I am starting to get excited! :D

I have also ordered the hk010 watt meter and some 10awg wire and 4mm connetors, so I am hoping I will have everything I need in a couple of weeks?

Not sure if I am gonna need a torque arm on the back of my mtb, it is an old lightweight alloy frame with no suppension,
I might even see if I can pick up a second hand bike with suspension? I'm not sure if I like the idea of going 30mph+ with no suspension? :)
 
You are absolutely going to need torque arms, or even better, torque plates.
That motor is going to put a big jolt of torque to the rear at even a flick of a throttle and that will bore out your dropouts in short time, especially with the amp level that 12FET is set to ( at least 40 amps )

No suspension is OK if you are on city streets. Get big tires, 1.75in. or bigger. I have 1.85 these days, they are quite good.
A steel fork will help soak up some of the rockyness. A suspension seat will help out too.

If you got some time to blow, check my build thread.
 
I was hoping I would not have to spend any more! :D

just had another look at my bike and it is a chromoly frame, so I guess better than allumimium?

been having a look at your ebike neptronix, looks very nice did you make them torque plates your self?
 
here are a couple of photos of the rear of my bike I am hoping to convert, it is an old kona cindercone and could do with a clean :)

any recommendations for a torque arm??
 

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Going off how your rear dropouts are designed, the shortys may actually work if you bolt onto that rear rack bit.
No guarantees though. At $10, it's worth the crapshoot for sure tho.
 
flanders said:
I was hoping I would not have to spend any more! :D
Click to expand...

Ooohh.. you are in the wrong hobby my friend ;)
But once you get a taste of this motor, you will understand why people like me are willing to throw down some $ to make it nice.

Chromoly steel is one of the best bike materials ever.

I had a local friend make me the torque plates. They are definitely overkill. I have ran about 3000w through them, something you will likely never do with the MAC. So you don't have to go *that* crazy with em. hehe.

Helps to have a disc brake frame. If you don't, all you have is the rear rack mount holes to mount to, those aren't too strong.
 
You most likley wont need them on a Chromo Frame, I run my 26 inch BMC on a raleigh steel mtb frame, the axle is a nice snug fit and doesnt move, I did run an arm on it for a while but tried it without as a test and checked it daily, that was 3 years ago and the drops are fine still, I run 1.6KW through my motor, no question if your frame is anything other that chromo or steel then you need a torque arm, the thickness is also a consideration though, how thick is the material at the nut?
 
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