1000w yesusa hub motor and have questions

dnmun said:
even 12G is 4 times the size of the tiny wires they use for the phase wires.

yeah but the few watts lost as heat in the phases in negligible compared to the controller inefficiencies, installing new phases is mostly done to reduce heat (allows more current without heating the phases more and acts as a heatsink) and increases temp capabilities of the wires.
 
pff7 said:
wesnewell said:
shock said:
Curious if anyone knows if the actual hub motors are different in the Yescomusa kits? My best guess is the cheaper kits are the same motor but a lower power controller. Can anyone confirm?? I have a Lyen 12 FET that I want to use and just really want the motor. SO I was considering buying the 36v500 kit just because it's $50 cheaper. I'll do it if someone can confirm the motors are the same. Thx!
I can confirm the 48V 500W motors are not the same as the 48V 1000W motors. Using same battery pack and controller, the 1000W motor out performs the 500W motor by a considerable margin. The phase wiring on the 1000W motor is considerably larger too. I have no idea about the rest of them, but they do post the specs of all of them on their website. I also swapped the 500W and 1000W controllers and each motor still performed the same, thus ruling out the only difference was the controller.

Thanks I was wondering about this also.
l

Confirmed this myself just now recently, actually kinda scary(1000W as compared to the 500W motor)
could just imagine what the greyborg is like.
 
Great thread - especially for those of us building a Yescom or similar kit - almost think this should be a sticky - I definitely found some great information to reference when I connect my battery (when it finally arrives after the sloooww trip from China)!
 
geeeyejo1 said:
Great thread - especially for those of us building a Yescom or similar kit - almost think this should be a sticky - I definitely found some great information to reference when I connect my battery (when it finally arrives after the sloooww trip from China)!

I totally agree with you and I know I cant wait til it finally gets here for as of the current time, its still out on delivery and it was here at 1:32pm on Friday which was 12 minutes after Id left for work. So I called in and told them Im going to be late because Im waiting for the motor and its almost 3:45 now and it was supposed to be here between 10:30am and 2pm and as I said, its still not here.
 
And finally here as the 3rd place for an answer to the original question about the motor:

Well the motor is here and I dont think the bike frame is well suited for this motor. The axle barely fits into the rear dropouts and trying to stretch the back frame isnt really all that easy either, lol. After a few trials with the batteries I believe I finally got the pos/neg the correct way. Now there is a problem, the wheel will turn when cranking and all but when I try to use the throttle the wheel wont move and when it does move just a tiny bit, it appears to be trying to go in reverse. Any suggestions?
 
RLD70;

your delivery of the motor kit, was that by UPS? and you missed it by 12 minutes, Is it safe for them to leave it at the front door? If yes, you can have a delivery release, and they will leave it at the front door. See UPS site for signup, and it is free. I know, it has happened many times for me. If leaving at front door is not good, for about $40 you can upgrade the UPS program to leave anywhere you think is safe, like inside back porch door.
 
RLD70 said:
And finally here as the 3rd place for an answer to the original question about the motor:

Well the motor is here and I dont think the bike frame is well suited for this motor. The axle barely fits into the rear dropouts and trying to stretch the back frame isnt really all that easy either, lol. After a few trials with the batteries I believe I finally got the pos/neg the correct way. Now there is a problem, the wheel will turn when cranking and all but when I try to use the throttle the wheel wont move and when it does move just a tiny bit, it appears to be trying to go in reverse. Any suggestions?
if its all wired correctly it means likely a broken hall, broken hall wire, or broken phase wire, or broken controller. get a greentime controller and a lyen tester asap.
 
chisixer6 said:
RLD70;

your delivery of the motor kit, was that by UPS? and you missed it by 12 minutes, Is it safe for them to leave it at the front door? If yes, you can have a delivery release, and they will leave it at the front door. See UPS site for signup, and it is free. I know, it has happened many times for me. If leaving at front door is not good, for about $40 you can upgrade the UPS program to leave anywhere you think is safe, like inside back porch door.

UPS tried delivering it this past Friday thats when they missed me by 12 minutes and it was supposed to be here before 2pm but wasnt here til after 5 pm and I wasnt able to ride it til after 9pm. And yes it took me nearly 4 hours to get it up and running right after doing a few mods to the bike so the wheel could fit properly even though I still have to buy a couple of lock washers and possibly a torque arm.
 
RLD70 said:
chisixer6 said:
RLD70;

your delivery of the motor kit, was that by UPS? and you missed it by 12 minutes, Is it safe for them to leave it at the front door? If yes, you can have a delivery release, and they will leave it at the front door. See UPS site for signup, and it is free. I know, it has happened many times for me. If leaving at front door is not good, for about $40 you can upgrade the UPS program to leave anywhere you think is safe, like inside back porch door.

UPS tried delivering it this past Friday thats when they missed me by 12 minutes and it was supposed to be here before 2pm but wasnt here til after 5 pm and I wasnt able to ride it til after 9pm. And yes it took me nearly 4 hours to get it up and running right after doing a few mods to the bike so the wheel could fit properly even though I still have to buy a couple of lock washers and possibly a torque arm.
Glad to hear you got it in place - what kind of battery are you using? Have mine on the road a few weeks now and really liking it! Torque arms are a good idea - especially if you have an aluminum frame. I do not find mine to be that "torquey" as I believe it is more of a speed wind - I generally pedal from a dead start with a little throttle - then apply throttle more once moving - I assume this minimizes excessive torque to the dropouts. At 48V LIFEPO4 power (actually 53-55V) I do not get the sense that the bike would pull a wheelie or burn rubber from a dead start - now with a 72V pack and a different controller that might be different...
 
geeeyejo1 said:
Glad to hear you got it in place - what kind of battery are you using? Have mine on the road a few weeks now and really liking it! Torque arms are a good idea - especially if you have an aluminum frame. I do not find mine to be that "torquey" as I believe it is more of a speed wind - I generally pedal from a dead start with a little throttle - then apply throttle more once moving - I assume this minimizes excessive torque to the dropouts. At 48V LIFEPO4 power (actually 53-55V) I do not get the sense that the bike would pull a wheelie or burn rubber from a dead start - now with a 72V pack and a different controller that might be different...

Yeah it was a bitch to say the least, lol. I went to the local hardware store this morning and bought 4 lock washers and oddly enough I didnt really have to bend it too much to get all the wires through it and onto the axle. When I rode it last night to go to Wally World and came to a stop light it had come out of the dropouts and luckily it still worked. Funny thing is I tightened up the bolts with wrenches before it came out and when I did it with my gloved fingers, it didnt move. I cant explain that one either, how exactly is it that when I used my fingers it stayed while using the wrenches failed??? Im currently using 10Ah SLA batteries (NEEDS replaced ASAP by better SLA) until I save up to get atleast a 20Ah lithium battery pack but prefer 30Ah if possible. I agree with you about torque too as I dont feel the power of a torque motor either, just speed power. My plans are to get another geared motor and use it exclusively on this bike but you know how plans go, some make it others dont. I just hope this motor does what I need it to if I cant get another motor, but batteries are #1 priority now for the motor. I like the speed the motor gives to say the least and speaking of speed, I topped out at 30 mph this morning and the bike handled just fine and I know I can change the voltage limit on the controller but Im not confident enough to mod it myself. I would like to get cruise control and the Anti-Theft Lock activated though but what I want and what actually happens are 2 different things, lol.
 
Not sure on the type of bike but 20-30AH will be a lot to carry and likely not fit in the triangle of the bike frame (the preferred location) A 15AH LIFEPO4 battery would provide you with 20 mile range at top speed and 30 miles at maybe 18-20mph. Where are your batteries located now? Make sure the axle is bolted real tight - you don't want it to drop out again and twist/rip the phase wires coming out of the motor!
 
geeeyejo1 said:
Not sure on the type of bike but 20-30AH will be a lot to carry and likely not fit in the triangle of the bike frame (the preferred location) A 15AH LIFEPO4 battery would provide you with 20 mile range at top speed and 30 miles at maybe 18-20mph. Where are your batteries located now? Make sure the axle is bolted real tight - you don't want it to drop out again and twist/rip the phase wires coming out of the motor!

Actually the currie motor was moving 255lbs consisting of me, the bike, the motor, the batteries and the wires and those were 18Ah batteries and the batteries are in the box, lol. http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=47373&start=45#p699834
 
You should tighten axle nuts to a minimum of 50 foot pounds. For those that don't know what that means and don't have a torque wrench, it means applying 50lbs of weight or pressure to the end of a 1 foot long wrench. Many people would have a hard time applying 50' lbs without standing and pushing down on a 12" wrench/ IOW's get it as tight as you can without standing on the wrench. Standard torque for a 14mm nut is 85-90 ft. lbs.
 
Although I ran this as 10ah 24s, this is 20ah of 12s lipo in a 17" frame, which is not real big as triangles go.
 
RLD70 said:
Do you think 4 18Ah batteries would fit in my triangle?
I highly doubt it. Might get 2 or even 3 in there. Personally, there's no way in hell I'd put 4 18ah chunks of lead on a bike, when for as little as $150, you can get 10ah of 12s lipo that will only weigh 8lbs, fit in the triangle with room for 10-15ah more, give you the same or more range than those 4 chunks of lead, and last at least 3 times longer. But if you have to use the sla's put as many as will fit in the triangle and the others wherever they will fit.
 
I seem to recall that you are pulling a trailer from your other post? If so, why not place the pack in the trailer to get the weight off the rear rack? Along with the hub and your weight that is a lot of weight on your rear tire/rim. Without the trailer you would LOVE that bike with 48V15AH of LIFEPO4 tucked in the triangle - would be a whole different ride... I initially hated the thought and liked the look/stealth aspect of placing the battery on the rear rack. I ended up opting for the triangle placement - with the battery in a bubble wrap padded cooler bag - secured to the frame triangle with 5 lengths of Velcro Strap (great stuff from Home Depot!) I can quickly mount/dismount the battery to bring inside to charge and love the way the bike handles - since the battery is lower, I can even use my standard single leg kickstand (thought I would need a two legged one like you have!)
 
The trailer hitch is another problem, the hole is too damn small for the hitch to attach to the axle. The good thing is that Im having someone look at it to see if he can widen the hole so that I can remount my trailer hitch onto the bike. That way Ill be able to test and see what I can and cant do hauling wise. And the batteries...Ill take plug and play (SLA, Lifepo4, etc.) over monitoring (Lipo) anyday but thats not saying that I wont use Lipo further down the road just right now its not going to happen.
 
You need to monitor all energy sources unless you want to get stuck far from home and have to pedal back. With lipo and sla all you really need is a volt meter to know your soc. With lifepo4, it not quite that simple, since you never know when a cell will hit the low voltage point and the bms will shut you down. Wait until that happens 10 miles from home as it has for others here and let me know how you like it.:)
 
wesnewell said:
You need to monitor all energy sources unless you want to get stuck far from home and have to pedal back. With lipo and sla all you really need is a volt meter to know your soc. With lifepo4, it not quite that simple, since you never know when a cell will hit the low voltage point and the bms will shut you down. Wait until that happens 10 miles from home as it has for others here and let me know how you like it.:)

Actually Ive lost power a long way from home before and carrying that 49 lb pack made it a bitch, good thing for the other gears :lol:
 
Yeah, wow. Before I had my extra chargers my one and only charger had a problem and left me pedaling home with 40+ lbs. extra weight. My clothes were drenched in sweat when I got home. I so appreciate that kickass power, especially when it's taken away from me. :cry:
 
I know how it feels to lose the motor due to various circumstances and I definitely dont want to lose this power whether its the batteries, controller or even the motor itself. I think its safe to say that Ive gotten spoiled by the motors for the bike :mrgreen:
 
I actually might have a problem with the motor/controller. For the past 2 days when I get on the bike and engage the throttle the motor starts and then stops abruptly. It does eventually stay on after a bit of time but the sudden stopping of the motor has me perplexed. Now it could be the batteries but it only does it when I very first get going and not any other time. I charge the batteries at work and have no problems with the motor what so ever unlike when I leave for work. Could cold weather be causing the problem of the motor stopping abruptly?
 
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