dnmun
1 PW
even 12G is 4 times the size of the tiny wires they use for the phase wires.
dnmun said:even 12G is 4 times the size of the tiny wires they use for the phase wires.
lpff7 said:wesnewell said:I can confirm the 48V 500W motors are not the same as the 48V 1000W motors. Using same battery pack and controller, the 1000W motor out performs the 500W motor by a considerable margin. The phase wiring on the 1000W motor is considerably larger too. I have no idea about the rest of them, but they do post the specs of all of them on their website. I also swapped the 500W and 1000W controllers and each motor still performed the same, thus ruling out the only difference was the controller.shock said:Curious if anyone knows if the actual hub motors are different in the Yescomusa kits? My best guess is the cheaper kits are the same motor but a lower power controller. Can anyone confirm?? I have a Lyen 12 FET that I want to use and just really want the motor. SO I was considering buying the 36v500 kit just because it's $50 cheaper. I'll do it if someone can confirm the motors are the same. Thx!
Thanks I was wondering about this also.
geeeyejo1 said:Great thread - especially for those of us building a Yescom or similar kit - almost think this should be a sticky - I definitely found some great information to reference when I connect my battery (when it finally arrives after the sloooww trip from China)!
if its all wired correctly it means likely a broken hall, broken hall wire, or broken phase wire, or broken controller. get a greentime controller and a lyen tester asap.RLD70 said:And finally here as the 3rd place for an answer to the original question about the motor:
Well the motor is here and I dont think the bike frame is well suited for this motor. The axle barely fits into the rear dropouts and trying to stretch the back frame isnt really all that easy either, lol. After a few trials with the batteries I believe I finally got the pos/neg the correct way. Now there is a problem, the wheel will turn when cranking and all but when I try to use the throttle the wheel wont move and when it does move just a tiny bit, it appears to be trying to go in reverse. Any suggestions?
chisixer6 said:RLD70;
your delivery of the motor kit, was that by UPS? and you missed it by 12 minutes, Is it safe for them to leave it at the front door? If yes, you can have a delivery release, and they will leave it at the front door. See UPS site for signup, and it is free. I know, it has happened many times for me. If leaving at front door is not good, for about $40 you can upgrade the UPS program to leave anywhere you think is safe, like inside back porch door.
Glad to hear you got it in place - what kind of battery are you using? Have mine on the road a few weeks now and really liking it! Torque arms are a good idea - especially if you have an aluminum frame. I do not find mine to be that "torquey" as I believe it is more of a speed wind - I generally pedal from a dead start with a little throttle - then apply throttle more once moving - I assume this minimizes excessive torque to the dropouts. At 48V LIFEPO4 power (actually 53-55V) I do not get the sense that the bike would pull a wheelie or burn rubber from a dead start - now with a 72V pack and a different controller that might be different...RLD70 said:chisixer6 said:RLD70;
your delivery of the motor kit, was that by UPS? and you missed it by 12 minutes, Is it safe for them to leave it at the front door? If yes, you can have a delivery release, and they will leave it at the front door. See UPS site for signup, and it is free. I know, it has happened many times for me. If leaving at front door is not good, for about $40 you can upgrade the UPS program to leave anywhere you think is safe, like inside back porch door.
UPS tried delivering it this past Friday thats when they missed me by 12 minutes and it was supposed to be here before 2pm but wasnt here til after 5 pm and I wasnt able to ride it til after 9pm. And yes it took me nearly 4 hours to get it up and running right after doing a few mods to the bike so the wheel could fit properly even though I still have to buy a couple of lock washers and possibly a torque arm.
geeeyejo1 said:Glad to hear you got it in place - what kind of battery are you using? Have mine on the road a few weeks now and really liking it! Torque arms are a good idea - especially if you have an aluminum frame. I do not find mine to be that "torquey" as I believe it is more of a speed wind - I generally pedal from a dead start with a little throttle - then apply throttle more once moving - I assume this minimizes excessive torque to the dropouts. At 48V LIFEPO4 power (actually 53-55V) I do not get the sense that the bike would pull a wheelie or burn rubber from a dead start - now with a 72V pack and a different controller that might be different...
geeeyejo1 said:Not sure on the type of bike but 20-30AH will be a lot to carry and likely not fit in the triangle of the bike frame (the preferred location) A 15AH LIFEPO4 battery would provide you with 20 mile range at top speed and 30 miles at maybe 18-20mph. Where are your batteries located now? Make sure the axle is bolted real tight - you don't want it to drop out again and twist/rip the phase wires coming out of the motor!
wesnewell said:Although I ran this as 10ah 24s, this is 20ah of 12s lipo in a 17" frame, which is not real big as triangles go.View attachment 1
I highly doubt it. Might get 2 or even 3 in there. Personally, there's no way in hell I'd put 4 18ah chunks of lead on a bike, when for as little as $150, you can get 10ah of 12s lipo that will only weigh 8lbs, fit in the triangle with room for 10-15ah more, give you the same or more range than those 4 chunks of lead, and last at least 3 times longer. But if you have to use the sla's put as many as will fit in the triangle and the others wherever they will fit.RLD70 said:Do you think 4 18Ah batteries would fit in my triangle?
wesnewell said:You need to monitor all energy sources unless you want to get stuck far from home and have to pedal back. With lipo and sla all you really need is a volt meter to know your soc. With lifepo4, it not quite that simple, since you never know when a cell will hit the low voltage point and the bms will shut you down. Wait until that happens 10 miles from home as it has for others here and let me know how you like it.