mushymelon
1 kW
This may be a stupid question but can I run a 110v ac chainsaw directly on dc.
I want to clean up some trails.
Thanks
Mushy
I want to clean up some trails.
Thanks
Mushy
110v ac chainsaw on dc
- Thread starter mushymelon
- Start date
Most of them have 'universal' series wound brushed motors that will work fine on DC. The problem will be the trigger switch. The switch most likely won't survive more than one off cycle. The work-around is to leave the trigger switch on all the time and use some other kind of switch that can handle the DC.
When the switch turns on, everything is fine, but when you try to open the switch, it will draw an arc that will most likely destroy the switch. Depending on how the switch is constructed, it might be OK, but I've fried a couple of them doing it.
I used a stack of old SLA batteries (72v worth) to run my reciprocating saw out in the back country and it worked great. The switch on that thing survived, but not so good when I tried running a hair dryer as a discharge load on my hybrid car pack.
When the switch turns on, everything is fine, but when you try to open the switch, it will draw an arc that will most likely destroy the switch. Depending on how the switch is constructed, it might be OK, but I've fried a couple of them doing it.
I used a stack of old SLA batteries (72v worth) to run my reciprocating saw out in the back country and it worked great. The switch on that thing survived, but not so good when I tried running a hair dryer as a discharge load on my hybrid car pack.
mushymelon
1 kW
I want to run it off my lipo packs directly 24s 15 ah turnigy packs.
I have one of these kicking around too.
Should be good for a couple hundred amps at least.
View attachment 1
Heres the saw
homelite 12 amp saw.
I have one of these kicking around too.
Should be good for a couple hundred amps at least.
View attachment 1
Heres the saw
homelite 12 amp saw.
mushymelon
1 kW
Another question does it matter what polarity or will it just run backwards?
dnmun
1 PW
you can figure out the polarity by opening it up and finding the diode. that will tell you the polarity you need to use to make it run forwards.
you wanna bypass that diode in any case. actually just rewire it to that point past the diode and use an external switch.
you could even use a power board from a BMS and turn on the mosfets with a small 9V battery and then put the small switch in the small battery power lead so it would turn off the mosfets that are carrying the current for the power saw. put the 9V battery negative to the negative B- lead from the 24S pack so it sees the proper ground.
but that is all very dangerous because of how fast the saw can do personal damage in a short period of time.
do not expect any switch to turn off the power. put andersons or other connectors in the battery lead so it can be disconnected in any case of failure. it may put out more power than you expect also.
you wanna bypass that diode in any case. actually just rewire it to that point past the diode and use an external switch.
you could even use a power board from a BMS and turn on the mosfets with a small 9V battery and then put the small switch in the small battery power lead so it would turn off the mosfets that are carrying the current for the power saw. put the 9V battery negative to the negative B- lead from the 24S pack so it sees the proper ground.
but that is all very dangerous because of how fast the saw can do personal damage in a short period of time.
do not expect any switch to turn off the power. put andersons or other connectors in the battery lead so it can be disconnected in any case of failure. it may put out more power than you expect also.
Dauntless
100 TW
I'm told my lawnmower is essentially ready for battery power with an AC transformer and would be an easy conversion, perhaps your chainsaw is the same.
I do think your options for a battery chainsaw are too good for you to bother with this.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_506890-95404-KCS+120-06_4294612763__?productId=50154344&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1¤tURL=%3FgoToProdList%3Dtrue%26Ns%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=
http://www.lowes.com/pd_216440-70-CCS818_4294612763__?productId=1060385&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1¤tURL=%3FgoToProdList%3Dtrue%26Ns%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=
I do think your options for a battery chainsaw are too good for you to bother with this.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_506890-95404-KCS+120-06_4294612763__?productId=50154344&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1¤tURL=%3FgoToProdList%3Dtrue%26Ns%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=
http://www.lowes.com/pd_216440-70-CCS818_4294612763__?productId=1060385&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1¤tURL=%3FgoToProdList%3Dtrue%26Ns%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=
mushymelon
1 kW
dnmun said:
Ok thanks for that but just to be clear the diode would be the positive?
As for safety yes I'm not as young and dumb as I use to be, well not as young anyway lol. I really don't like the Idea of having one hand off the saw to switch it on and off. Would a circuit breaker mounted near the trigger work with High volt setup or will it just arc out too. I had planned on using 75a andersons too because that whats on the bike already.
As for more power how much more power do speculate it will draw. The bike currently handles 5kw peaks So the current wiring should be adequate. I not sure what cord I would need to run because I'm not sure how much current this thing gonna pull, would a 15 foot 12g extention cord handle the job or Will it be unsafe for the bike battery or just shorten the life of the saw. The second scenario I could live with.
Dauntless said:
I'm not sure these would be up to the task, good for 4 inch pine but get into the hardwood and roots I'm sure you'll kill the batteries pretty quick.
major
10 kW
I have one of these.
http://arborist101.com/craftsman-c3-19-2v-chainsaw/
I think it actually does quite well for what it is. Will do 4" diameter branches and maybe 1 to 2 dozen of them on a charge with the Craftsman C3 19.2V Lithium small pack. For trimming it'll run 20 minute or so. Nothing like a 2 cycle gas saw, but easier to start
On the AC saw, if it is a series motor (aka universal motor), polarity doesn't matter. You'd have to reverse the field to rotate backwards. The AC saw could use a PM motor with a rectifier in which case it would also run correctly with either polarity. I agree the switch could be a problem with DC.
I don't understand the comment about the lawnmower running on a battery with a transformer :?
http://arborist101.com/craftsman-c3-19-2v-chainsaw/
I think it actually does quite well for what it is. Will do 4" diameter branches and maybe 1 to 2 dozen of them on a charge with the Craftsman C3 19.2V Lithium small pack. For trimming it'll run 20 minute or so. Nothing like a 2 cycle gas saw, but easier to start
On the AC saw, if it is a series motor (aka universal motor), polarity doesn't matter. You'd have to reverse the field to rotate backwards. The AC saw could use a PM motor with a rectifier in which case it would also run correctly with either polarity. I agree the switch could be a problem with DC.
I don't understand the comment about the lawnmower running on a battery with a transformer :?
Dauntless
100 TW
I have the Remington version of this, I'm told it's the same factory in China, etc.
http://arborist101.com/poulan-pln3516f/
My feeling is it's probably no more powerful than that Craftsman, I wouldn't be surprised if it was the same motor. Why would the battery be better connected to the AC unit? I see no logic in that.
Oh, years ago it fried the rectifier, while trying to discuss the problem I put pictures of the insides on a different forum and they were saying it was I think 24v DC and instead of a battery there was a transformer. As though it was meant to be a battery unit. At least a few suggestions that I could just connect a battery pack and away we go. Instead I just put a larger rectifier on it.
http://arborist101.com/poulan-pln3516f/
My feeling is it's probably no more powerful than that Craftsman, I wouldn't be surprised if it was the same motor. Why would the battery be better connected to the AC unit? I see no logic in that.
major said:
Oh, years ago it fried the rectifier, while trying to discuss the problem I put pictures of the insides on a different forum and they were saying it was I think 24v DC and instead of a battery there was a transformer. As though it was meant to be a battery unit. At least a few suggestions that I could just connect a battery pack and away we go. Instead I just put a larger rectifier on it.
mushymelon
1 kW
Dauntless said:
If this question is for me then the logic would be running 90 -100v dc lipos 1300 wh would be significantly more powerful than running from a 40v 4ah tool pack.
Plus I have the power source on my vehicle when I arrive at the remote location where I intend to use the saw.
dnmun
1 PW
for the diode. when the AC current is going positive, it will push current through the diode so the current going out of the top of the diode is positive. make sense?
the diode is pictured as an arrow going into a barrier. the current flows in the direction of the arrow. it cannot flow back through the barrier once it is through.
so the side of the diode with the barrier is gonna be the positive side. when you look at the diode you will see that it has a white band around one end.
that is the end that is the barrier so that is the leg of the power leads to the motor you would use to put the positive wire from the battery.
i think your wires will be ok. it will use about the same power as before, but it will be about 30% more current. your extension cord can handle it. the connections may be the hot spots.
the diode is pictured as an arrow going into a barrier. the current flows in the direction of the arrow. it cannot flow back through the barrier once it is through.
so the side of the diode with the barrier is gonna be the positive side. when you look at the diode you will see that it has a white band around one end.
that is the end that is the barrier so that is the leg of the power leads to the motor you would use to put the positive wire from the battery.
i think your wires will be ok. it will use about the same power as before, but it will be about 30% more current. your extension cord can handle it. the connections may be the hot spots.
Dauntless
100 TW
So somebody gave me the broken chainsaw, I already had a big one and a small polesaw. Dang it was a quick fix.
Why couldn't it have been something I could use? Like a real career?
Why couldn't it have been something I could use? Like a real career?
mushymelon
1 kW
I have a gas chainsaw.
I also have the electric too.
Noise is the issue.
I also have the electric too.
Noise is the issue.
Dauntless
100 TW
They put a picture of the electric chainsaw with their gas posting.
dnmun
1 PW
mushymelon said:
for a simple contactor, why not just have two copper leaves, or just one, that you would just push down with the thumb to make contact and then it would open when you let up. so it would have to be springy copper. so it might get hot. make it wide enuff to handle the current so it wouldn't burn your thumb, and give you an excuse to rest the battery when the contactor gets too hot to push down, hehe.
mushymelon
1 kW
dnmun said:
Actually I pulled it apart last night and the switch has a nice spring in it already I could probably put a couple big hunks of copper in there one glued to the trigger and one fixed in the unit should be an easy mod.
I've been looking at work theres tones of electric stuff from the fifties and sixties collection dust all kinds of old relays and switches and who knows what, theres three isles of crap collecting dust I'm hoping to find something in there.
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