13 amp max draw.

JoshKeller

100 µW
Joined
Aug 18, 2021
Messages
8
Location
Martinsburg, wv
Hey guys, I was referred here by a Facebook group. I have a Chinese "1000"w geared hub ebike that originally came with a 17a controller. I've replaced the controller with a 37a max and s866 screen to 22 amps and it did provide more power. I still can only get 13a max from it. I've tried two batteries - one 48v 13 ah, and a 52v 17.5 ah - the 17.5 ah claims to have a 30a bms. Any suggestions why it's only drawing 13 amps max? Is it possible the controller is 13amp nominal/38 peak? I use this bike for hunting and want to get it running 100%.

Here is the controller - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081LCWL5Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_QERYNJ2Y4MN16DAB9GHT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1







This is the sound it makes when it hits 13 amps. It's quiet as can be once the amp draw drops below 11

https://youtu.be/hboMIZLuc8Y
 
I have that S866 display and a 10A Brainpower controller. It was very anemic and $55 wasted on a cheap controller/LCD. The S866 display only had 5 P settings and none of them involved current or power. I did download an S866 manual which showed more P settings. Perhaps your display will respond with higher level P=settings. Some of those appear to involve power.

Phoebe0.jpg

However, if nothing works, get a different controller, like a 40A KT controller with a new display. These come with better documentation and better design. I've got several bikes running 20A and 25A controllers, and they deliver the advertised current.

Be advised that your 9 pin motor connector may not be able to handle more than 25A. If the connector can slip thru the axle nut, then it's the small connector,

http://www.topbikekit.com/t12h-36v48v-1000w-40a-torque-simulation-sine-wave-controller-for-ebike-p-833.html
 

Attachments

  • S866 lcd.pdf
    733.6 KB · Views: 15
I ordered the kt controller. I will update when it arrives. I messed with all the p settings and I found 014 is current limiting - changing that from 20 to 2 had no effect at all on current draw. Perhaps just a junk controller or a communication fault with the lcd?
 
Back
Top