$14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

I have not had any communications with them, but I was able to jump all the hurdles and register with the assorted companies/websites and get to a final payment page where a s/h price was posted along with payment. When I saw the s/h price for 3 boards which is their MOQ, I just stopped and closed all the assorted windows. It was quite a process and hassle to jump the hurdles.
 
Well they would be cheap if a certain total number of boards is reached. But I am not about to communicate with them to get the board schematics as most here want in order to obtain these cheap boards. My calculations were if we got 30 boards, then the per board cost would only go up $3.50 for each board. I would want about 3 or 4 myself, without the schematics.
 
Sorry I havent had time to document these. Will do tonight.

Two in parallel is gonna get tested also. Could be a cool high amp solution if it works. Already tested KU63 here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=75186&p=1176753#p1176753
 
Has anyone managed to get Regen successfully working on these controllers?

We've got EBS pads, an EBS wire & ground?, and brake Hi/Lo & Ground to work with...

I haven't experimented tons yet, this is some "benchtop" results:

With EBS pads bridged
  • Connecting EBS wire to ground = No effect, no effect when paired with Brake Hi/Lo combinations either.
    Connecting Brake Hi to ground = No effect
    Connecting Brake Lo to ground = Motor phases bridged. Motor brake = 100% stall torque (theory), throttle not responsive. Skeptical of using this in case I overheat the windings

Next set of tests I'll repeat with EBS pads not bridged... I'm wondering if bridging the pads has the same effect as grounding the EBS wire.
Also upcoming is a low speed riding test of the Lo -> Ground connection to gauge braking strength with more than just motor inertia.

I suppose applying a PWM to the brake Lo -> GND could modulate the braking force... but i'd like to tie this to throttle position for true regen, not just e-braking. Perhaps worth noting, Brake Lo/GND are in one connector, Brake Hi its own cable, and EBS / GND were a pair on someone else's (weren't even on mine initially).

Any infos appreciated!
 
Someone posted that it's just a case of connecting the two blue (EBS) wires together. Have a look through the last couple of pages.

*Edit
Samd said:
Regen works a treat with the blue wires joined
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Suggs, I didn't see that buried in there. My controller did not come with those blue wires... I found another post that linked the blue wires to have 1 going to the EBS PTH and the other side to ground, but I'm wondering if there are any other missing components that simply haven't been populated on my controller to enable the function. I'll desolder the EBS pads and re test tonight!

However it would be great to have full documentation of the differences between a controller with functioning regen and no regen in case its not as simple as grounding that PTH.

Still don't really know what Brake - Hi is for :)
 
Suggs said:
Updated spreadsheet. Thanks to Jojack for the info.
Click to expand...

Thats good, great organizational skills Suggs.
I still got one more controller coming 84V 1000W should be here any day now. I think it takes about a month to come.
 
I finally got mine. The box looked like someone punted it about 15 times and then let a bum use it as a pillow for a few weeks. I guess that explains why it took so long to arrive. The bolts that fasten the FET's to the side of the case are liberally covered in some sort of glue/epoxy. May be a bastard to get it open. Did anyone else have that 'feature' on theirs? I will have some time this weekend to test it out. I will add some solder to the shunt and install a temp probe. Will start at 40amps and work my way up to see if I can get over 100amps without letting the magic smoke out.
 
The silicon is to prevent water ingress. This an exposed item after all. Not a trouble to remove the screw though, silicon is very soft and you can just pretend its not there and screw away.
 
ecycler said:
I finally got mine. The box looked like someone punted it about 15 times and then let a bum use it as a pillow for a few weeks. I guess that explains why it took so long to arrive. The bolts that fasten the FET's to the side of the case are liberally covered in some sort of glue/epoxy. May be a bastard to get it open. Did anyone else have that 'feature' on theirs? I will have some time this weekend to test it out. I will add some solder to the shunt and install a temp probe. Will start at 40amps and work my way up to see if I can get over 100amps without letting the magic smoke out.
Click to expand...


Before you solder the shunts will you have chance to test the controller to see what amps it is limited to?
 
Good to know it is a soft silicon!

Suggs, I will test it stock before modding if that is helpful. Has anyone recorded the stock resistance of the shunt yet?
 
Not that I've seen in this thread. That would be a very useful bit of information although I guess not guarenteed to be the same on all.
 
I took another look at the controller last night. This weekend I will convert all the terminals to the proper ones to match my bikes. I don't see it mentioned in any of the docs I have seen and it is not labeled. What is the thicker green wire with the bullet connector on it for? Perhaps it will be clear when I open it up later in the testing, but was curious if anyone had a quick answer.
 
Okay, I will check it out when I open it up. Some type of motor lock perhaps?
 
I blew up my controller :cry:

I had a bad day yesterday so shouldn't have really been messing with the controller as my mind was on other things. Anyway, because I was taking the controller in & out of the case all the time I didn't screw the heat sink back to the case every time. The result...... The base of the fet legs touching the aluminium case and shorting the blue bank of fets :cry:

Stupid mistake that I'll learn from.
 
ecycler said:
I took another look at the controller last night. This weekend I will convert all the terminals to the proper ones to match my bikes. I don't see it mentioned in any of the docs I have seen and it is not labeled. What is the thicker green wire with the bullet connector on it for? Perhaps it will be clear when I open it up later in the testing, but was curious if anyone had a quick answer.
Click to expand...

The green wire is connected to: SD+ in the controller, the SD- pad next to it is not wired.
I think the green wire is for Speed measuring, 1 complete rotation of the motor is 1 puls, could be used on a bikecomputer.
 
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