17ah Samsung 35E at 30A
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Pizzabroodje
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docware said:
Okay thanks.
I think I'll go with the 14s8p triangle. I just made it from cardboard and it fits within my frame perfectly.
I'm not really worried about not being able to mount it, but just wanted to know if it's not bad for the internals of the battery because the Velcro straps would most likely provide more shock resistance then metal straps. Or doesn't that matter?
Also, do you recommend going with 35E's for ~$676 or GA's for ~$746? Or another cell?
Pizzabroodje
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docware said:
Why not 14s8p?
And if I need to absorb the vibration from the ride, would metal straps still be viable? Or do you mean cover the metal straps in something shock absorbent?
Pizzabroodje
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The problem with a triangle bag is that you can cut it open without any special tools. That's why I want a hard cased battery pack with a possibility to securely mount it against thieves. The only triangle pack that checks those things is the UPP pack.docware said:
I'll ask them to send a picture of the inside and there opinion on the matter.
This is the pack in question: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/US-EU-No-Tax-52Volt-Triangle-case-Electric-Bike-Battery-52V-28Ah-ebike-Lithium-ion-battery/32914588998.html
Pizzabroodje
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Pizzabroodje said:
They say it wouldn't affect the insides of the battery.
I can't attach the picture somehow, so here it is: https://imgur.com/a/y5AnqYK
999zip999
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If someone is going to steal you battery they will just steal your bike with rolling wheels stick it in a van and drive off. if they see the bike parked for 2 hours every Wednesday and get it then.
Pizzabroodje
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999zip999 said:
I will buy good enough locks to prevent that, and the thieves would need a van. Anyone with a knife or even a cheap pair of scissors could easily steal the battery when in a simple bag.
Pizzabroodje, regarding the secure metal straps, do you think that this
is expensive special tool ?
Well, the plastic case is really nice, i like it. Really. Just I would never buy Li-ion cells or battery from not proved e-shop. I would prefer to buy battery from company like Em3ev because of their good reputation. The possibility to check individual cells group voltage through Smart BMS/Bluetooth is also interesting.
But you can try it. In any case, you at least obtain good-looking durable plastic shell for new set of cells.
is expensive special tool ?
Well, the plastic case is really nice, i like it. Really. Just I would never buy Li-ion cells or battery from not proved e-shop. I would prefer to buy battery from company like Em3ev because of their good reputation. The possibility to check individual cells group voltage through Smart BMS/Bluetooth is also interesting.
But you can try it. In any case, you at least obtain good-looking durable plastic shell for new set of cells.
Pizzabroodje
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docware said:Pizzabroodje, regarding the secure metal straps, do you think that this
A.jpg
is expensive special tool ?
Well, the plastic case is really nice, i like it. Really. Just I would never buy Li-ion cells or battery from not proved e-shop. I would prefer to buy battery from company like Em3ev because of their good reputation. The possibility to check individual cells group voltage through Smart BMS/Bluetooth is also interesting.
But you can try it. In any case, you at least obtain good-looking durable plastic shell for new set of cells.
I don't think it's a expensive neither special tool, but not everyone has those on them, so opportunity thieves wouldn't be able to steal it, and my bike will have an alarm so good luck to hem cutting through 18 (I'll probably put two per 'slot') 12mm wide metal straps while the alarm is making loud noises.
There's nothing wrong with the build quality or the cells of UnitPackPower packs. The only real difference between them and those from Em3ev is that Em3ev has all cells fused, and have a better BMS. But theft protection is more important to me.
So it's either a 14s5p jumbo shark from Em3ev or a 14s8p triangle pack from UPP.
999zip999
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Where do you plan on leaving your bike when not in use are you going to school you go to work 5 days a week and park your bike in the same spot everyday. Thieves look for patterns are there likes stealing at a circus or a concert. They like to steal ebikes at events these are people who do not live next door these are people who are going to take your bike and take it somewhere else far away. Best to get a GPS tracker.
Pizzabroodje
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999zip999 said:
I want to use it for school too; but that depends on the actual range I will get with my usage. As the school I go to would be a 27km+ bike ride one way. I don't think there would even be enough room to lock my bike in the same spot every day.
When not in use I will lock it with two ART-3 locks (ART is a Dutch certification / quality mark for locks): one chain lock and a u-lock. Both would attach the bike to for example a pole. I would also have an ART-2 mortise lock to lock up the wheels, and a small steel cable for the saddle.
Aside from normal locks I will use a motion alarm.
I think considering this 99% of the thieves would go on looking for another bike to steal.
ART-1: minimal protection ("take-with-you protection")
ART-2: bicycles
ART-3: moped /scooter
ART-4: motor bikes (away from home)
ART-5: motor bikes (at home)
I looked at GPS-Trackers but the problem with those is that they aren't accurate enough, most of the time even when outside. If locked in a basement there would be no signal at all.
Pizzabroodje
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docware said:
I will probably be going with the 14s9p triangle from Em3ev anyway, and make a hard case out of kydex / similar or fibreglass, and attach it to the frame with thick metal clamps going around the frame screwed into the hard case.
Would the 30Q have better cycle life then 35E at 30 Amps?
The 35E is 4Ah / 204Wh smaller, so a noticable difference. If using 1000W (average) would get me too 45km/h that would give me ~9km extra range. If I don't use the extra range, it would be an extra 13% to leave unused for extra battery life. To remind you I already bought a Luna charger with a 80%/90%/100% switch.
I also asked them how much it would cost with MJ1's, but that would probably be too much.
I don´t expect huge price impact of MJ1 on the total price. 9p and MJ1 or 30Q should be your choice.
Hopefuly you slightly drop your keen effort to kill your battery by traveling high speed .
If you assume leaving the bike outside, you have to look for shade, because temperatures at direct sun warm up the battery and significantly shorten life time.
Hopefuly you slightly drop your keen effort to kill your battery by traveling high speed .
If you assume leaving the bike outside, you have to look for shade, because temperatures at direct sun warm up the battery and significantly shorten life time.
Philaphlous
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Why can't you bring your battery with you? Where do you go/work? Can you really not take it with you? You're explaining all these elaborate plans to secure the battery and the easiest of them all is to just bring it with you. I park my bike at a dc metro station and I always bring my battery with me. Now thankfully I feel safe enough to keep it at my desk at work and my coworkers are cool wit it. I use two lock. A u lock with cable and a boron carbide masterlock on the rear tire/spokes to frame. Seems secure enough and I've never had an issue for the 9 months I've been doing it. I'll probably switch up my ride this year to not park at the metro anymore once I've got my new battery built..
Why dont you figure a lock to put between each wire at the connector? If you could do that and have like a little xt90 extension and put a lock between the two a thief would have to literally cut at least one of the wires and the lock to get it out and likely ruin the battery in the process. Best part is you wouldn't have to touch it when you leave or get to your bike since it won't interfere with your ride. I use a zip tie and whereas it's easy to cut. Someone will likely ruin the battery by cutting the wire accidentally would be my guess... Either that or short out the connectors and get a freaking huge spark...I'd think that'd be a decent deterrent.
Why dont you figure a lock to put between each wire at the connector? If you could do that and have like a little xt90 extension and put a lock between the two a thief would have to literally cut at least one of the wires and the lock to get it out and likely ruin the battery in the process. Best part is you wouldn't have to touch it when you leave or get to your bike since it won't interfere with your ride. I use a zip tie and whereas it's easy to cut. Someone will likely ruin the battery by cutting the wire accidentally would be my guess... Either that or short out the connectors and get a freaking huge spark...I'd think that'd be a decent deterrent.
Pizzabroodje
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The thing is that they don't have the MJ1 one in stock right now so it would have to be custom made. I can probably get 10% off the battery, but not if it's custom.docware said:I don´t expect huge price impact of MJ1 on the total price. 9p and MJ1 or 30Q should be your choice.
Hopefuly you slightly drop your keen effort to kill your battery by traveling high speed .
If you assume leaving the bike outside, you have to look for shade, because temperatures at direct sun warm up the battery and significantly shorten life time.
Would 26.6Ah even be enough for a 27km both ways so 54km ride? I feel like it's a little bit too small and that 30.4Ah would cut it.
Some days I will even ride about 73km if possible. I would probably have to recharge for that though.
I don't want to be carrying a 6+ kg battery around everywhere I go as that is very inconvenient. I'd have to carry it from class to class for example, or when leaving my bike somewhere and continuing on foot.Philaphlous said:
It might be the 'easiest' option against theft, but not convenient at all.
As for locks, read my message above; I'll be using 2 heavy locks, a U-lock and chain lock. Plus an additional cable lock through the wheels and a smaller cable through the saddle.
I don't think anyone would easily steal this bike.
Putting a lock between the two cables of a connector is possible, but probably wouldn't stop thieves as much as making the thieves ruin the battery.
I'll think about it though thanks for the suggestion.
Pizzabroodje
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docware said:I don´t expect huge price impact of MJ1 on the total price. 9p and MJ1 or 30Q should be your choice.
Hopefuly you slightly drop your keen effort to kill your battery by traveling high speed .
If you assume leaving the bike outside, you have to look for shade, because temperatures at direct sun warm up the battery and significantly shorten life time.
They can't make the MJ1 pack for me.
They say that in there real-world experience the 35E offers better cycle life then the 30Q.
And I can indeed still get the 10% off.
It will be around €700-€720 for the 35E pack including shipment.
Pizzabroodje
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Joachim said:Long story for a simpel batteryje maakt het je zelf wel erg lastig
The thing is I want a battery that's capable of high discharge while maintaining good battery life.
At first I wanted to get a shark pack but that's too small for the power I'll be using.
That leaves two options; the 14s8p UPP pack, or the 14s9p Em3ev pack with a homebuilt case.
Then there's also the cell options. The UPP can be delivered with Samsung 35E, 30Q, LG MJ1 or Sanyo GA. The one from Em3ev with Samsung 35E or 30Q.
These cells are very different from each other.
UPP offers what are probably better cells and an hard case, but Em3ev offers a better BMS and fused cells.
I want the best possible solution; and it seems build quality is more important then the cells (as long as it's brand cells).
That leaves me with the Em3ev pack, and the choise between Samsung 30Q and 35E.
The datasheets say 30Q, but Em3ev says 35E (in real world experience).
