Shunting directly across the battery is a bad idea, the 10 ohm resistor is NOT optional, neither is heatsinking. This design will also have issues with tempco - the voltages will vary depending on the individual characteristics of the darlington and the LED, the ambient temperature and also the age of the components.
Also - if you test the voltage drop across a white LED - it changes with the current across it - and they range from 2.3-2.8V forward voltage from the same batch. Urk.
This is the main reason why programmable voltage references were made - its just not accurate enough.
Also - someone tested this out...
"Posted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 7:14 am Post subject: [ThunderSky] Re: Inexpensive balancing BMS recommendations p
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Jan:
I did some further experiments with alarming results. It appears that the darlingtons avalanche at some point with no real recovery on a battery system.
On a lab power supply, I rigged up the Darlington and white LED. At about 3.85 it starts to conduct and at 4.00 volts it goes to a about 1.5 amps. At that point, the amperage counts up, the voltage counts down. But as the voltage comes down, the amperage continues up.
I took 3 TIP105s and a white LED and made a board with about 7 square inches of heavy copper foil as a heat sink with holes for the battery terminals.
On the bench, it exhibited the same behavior. I thought well, maybe on the battery the battery voltage will keep this in control.
I mounted the board on the battery, put on a charger, and charged it until the voltage reached about 4.00 volts. Then I shut off the power supply and disconnected it.
The voltage fell steadily but slowly. The current kept climbing. Then the board melted. Finally the fire started.
I managed to get a hot bolt off before burning down the garage.
The LED isn't the problem per se. The voltage across the LED was constant the whole time.
But the darlingtons, even with a pretty good amount of heat sink, and three of them in parallel, hit some sort of temperature point and there is no getting back with disconnecting it.
On the lab supply, I was able to back off to 2 volts or even 0 and that would allow it to recover.
I can't do that with a battery.
We need some sort of controllable silicon device that when we shut it off, it shuts off. "
http://www.convertthefuture.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=22889&start=15&sid=5a48500837e06a68543e35efb9187727