I am thinking of buying a 48 volt 25 AMP battery charger that has a standard 110 plug. What is going to happen when I plug it in to a standard 15 AMP household outlet? Will it only draw as many AMPs as it can ie 15 or will it trip my breaker every time?
25 AMP Battery Charger in a 15 AMP Outlet?
- Thread starter Gregski
- Start date
liveforphysics
100 TW
google bucking converter
or buck-type converter
Basically, you can draw 1 amp from the wall and output 100amps if you like (though it would be at ~1v)
Follow the power not the current or voltage if you want to know if something will work.
or buck-type converter
Basically, you can draw 1 amp from the wall and output 100amps if you like (though it would be at ~1v)
Follow the power not the current or voltage if you want to know if something will work.
Hillhater
100 TW
Your wall socket 15 amp capacity is limited by a fixed voltage ( 110 v) which gives a max POWER capability of 1650 Watts.
Your charger will convert the voltage to 48v and increase the current to 25A, giving a power of 1200 W ( + a few watts of heat etc).
so your wall socket will be quite happy supplying only 1200++ watts :wink:
Your charger will convert the voltage to 48v and increase the current to 25A, giving a power of 1200 W ( + a few watts of heat etc).
so your wall socket will be quite happy supplying only 1200++ watts :wink:
liveforphysics
100 TW
Just as a real-world observation, 15amp breakers tend to trip at >12amps for an extended period.
thank you the light bulb is flickering, lol here's what it says on the unit:
Input: 100-240V ~50/60Hz 12.5/7.5A
Output: 48V-25A 25.0A@100~
can someone say that to me in English please? what are Hertz I thought they rent cars, jk and please spare me the Wikipeida answer talk to me like I'm six years old
Input: 100-240V ~50/60Hz 12.5/7.5A
Output: 48V-25A 25.0A@100~
can someone say that to me in English please? what are Hertz I thought they rent cars, jk and please spare me the Wikipeida answer talk to me like I'm six years old
Hillhater
100 TW
Dont worry about the Hz,..(its the supply voltage frequency) .. you do not need to understand the technical details.
Buy and use your charger, it is not large enough to damage your domestic power supply.
If you really wish to learn more about power supply, voltage, frequency, transformers etc i suggest you search Wikipedia with some of those key words.
Buy and use your charger, it is not large enough to damage your domestic power supply.
If you really wish to learn more about power supply, voltage, frequency, transformers etc i suggest you search Wikipedia with some of those key words.
Holocene
100 W
Hi, Gregski
This charger says it can run on either North American mains power (110 Volts, 60 cycles per second), or on European mains power (220 Volts @ 50 Hz). There should be a switch on it somewhere to select the type of power imput.
So, as per LFP, you should have no special problems drawing 12.5 amps at 110 Volts, if you're in North America!
Wouldn't it be easier just to post a link to the product you considering, and asking about it?
Cheers,
Holocene
This charger says it can run on either North American mains power (110 Volts, 60 cycles per second), or on European mains power (220 Volts @ 50 Hz). There should be a switch on it somewhere to select the type of power imput.
So, as per LFP, you should have no special problems drawing 12.5 amps at 110 Volts, if you're in North America!
Wouldn't it be easier just to post a link to the product you considering, and asking about it?
Cheers,
Holocene
dogman dan
1 PW
As the math shows, it won't be likely to set the house on fire since the wiring, if installed correctly will be thick enough to handle that current. 48v 25 amps is less wattage than the 15 amp circuit is designed for. But it's close enough to the limit to prefer a 20 amp circuit.
But as LFP states, real world circuit breakers may pop when used at or near capacity for a long time. I've seen this a million times with construction sites, where compressors or other continuos duty motors run all day heat up the breaker. Eventually the breaker gets damaged and starts to trip even lower.
So yes it will be fine on a good 15 amp circuit, but the breaker may trip if it's a crappy one. Other devices on the same circuit may draw enough power to cause more than 15 amps, at which point the breaker trips.
If possible find a 20 amp circuit. Even better if possible, add a 20 amp plug to your garage so the charger runs on that with a short wire and no other stuff on the circuit.
But as LFP states, real world circuit breakers may pop when used at or near capacity for a long time. I've seen this a million times with construction sites, where compressors or other continuos duty motors run all day heat up the breaker. Eventually the breaker gets damaged and starts to trip even lower.
So yes it will be fine on a good 15 amp circuit, but the breaker may trip if it's a crappy one. Other devices on the same circuit may draw enough power to cause more than 15 amps, at which point the breaker trips.
If possible find a 20 amp circuit. Even better if possible, add a 20 amp plug to your garage so the charger runs on that with a short wire and no other stuff on the circuit.
Thank you well I am confused since some people say it means it can run on 110 or 220 here in USA, so who's right. I guess anything can work here or across the pond provided you have an adapter of some sorts, but what is it in this case, is this a US vs Europe spec or is it a 110 vs 220 volt spec?Holocene said:
dogman dan
1 PW
The switch may be inside the case. For now, you run it on what it has a plug for, 110v american socket. You shouldn't have problems with any plug that has a good connection, that is no loose connections between your plug and the breaker box.
It will be iffy to try to carry it, and charge using a plug that could be carrying 1000w of load already, like where the coke machine is at the quickie mart.
It will be iffy to try to carry it, and charge using a plug that could be carrying 1000w of load already, like where the coke machine is at the quickie mart.
ericslai
10 mW
I am sure it is a switching power supply/charger which you don't need to flip a switch to use it in the North America/Japan (100 to 120VAC 60Hz) or rest of the world (220-240VAC 50Hz). You just need to use a correct power cord to plug into the wall socket to get AC power. You should also see the safety agency logos on the case such as UL, CSA, TUV......and CE.
You should look for a socket/circuit that has a 20A circuit breaker and it does not have toaster, microwave, fridge, hair dryer, vacuum, heater, air con.... in the same circuit.
You should look for a socket/circuit that has a 20A circuit breaker and it does not have toaster, microwave, fridge, hair dryer, vacuum, heater, air con.... in the same circuit.
cassschr1
10 kW
The kitchens in Wisconsin are wired to have 12g wire .....so a 20a breaker and probably more than 1 circuit too. It's probably like that across the country.
auraslip
10 MW
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- Mar 5, 2010
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- 3,535
Can we plug chargers into two different busses? Like in my trailer there is a bus that travels down each side. Meaning most rooms hook up to two separate busses. Would it be safe to run a cord from each outlet?
It would be awesome if I could pull 3kw because the new charger I'm building out of server power supplies could definitely handle it.
It would be awesome if I could pull 3kw because the new charger I'm building out of server power supplies could definitely handle it.
liveforphysics
100 TW
auraslip said:
If you want 220v, then yes. The standard home wiring procedure is to run one bank of 110vac breakers from the top and one side from the bottom of the 220v rail, split in the middle at the neutral. Sometimes folks get 220v where they need it by cutting up two extension cords to let them plug into each hot side in a room from two separate 110vac circuits. It tends to work fine if you know what you're doing, dangerous if you dont (like most things in life).
auraslip
10 MW
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10-4 - will not do. Maybe after my first year of EE I'll have the confidence to try it. It's not like i'll need it anyways. The pack I'm building is only 18s20ah lipo - so 1.2kw should charge in an hour anyways. If I ever actually fully discharge.
Hillhater
100 TW
I cannot believe we have had a 2 page thread over pluging in a commercial battery charger ! :? do you worry this much about plugging in a toaster or room heater ??
It makes me worry about if you know what you are doing with the other end of this charger ???
999zip999
100 TW
Is true in Aus. the flourescent lights on 50hz. blinks so slow it gives headages ?
Gordo
100 kW
dogman said:
There is no switch necessary on these new universal chargers. They don't care what the input voltage is. They limit it, chop it, put it through a transformer and output the correct voltage and current. I have several of them.
And what is wrong with your
"head-ages"? :lol: Everyone's head ages unless they are dead.
dogman dan
1 PW
Hey, two pages later I just learned something new about commercial chargers. Not that it matters all that much, but good to know more always.
Re 220 in a trailer. Got a dryer plug? There's your 220.
Re kitchen plugs. Yes they are 12 guage wired to 20 amps in my state too, probobally all across the us. And also often the most overloaded plugs in the house, so another 15 amp circuit could have more avaliable watts.
Re 220 in a trailer. Got a dryer plug? There's your 220.
Re kitchen plugs. Yes they are 12 guage wired to 20 amps in my state too, probobally all across the us. And also often the most overloaded plugs in the house, so another 15 amp circuit could have more avaliable watts.
auraslip
10 MW
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I used to trip the breaker just running an electric heater when I didn't have gas. Shit, everything is so damn cheap in this thing. I wouldn't be supreised if the place was wired up with 18 awg wire.
On the upside, It'd be super easy to just drill a hole in the floor, and run the 220v line to what ever room in the place I want.
Gordo
100 kW
dogman said:
Kitchen 12 gauge, 20 amp here also.
Dryer or Electric stove plug. I buy the plug with cable from the recycle depot for $1 each and sometimes find the box with socket there also for $5.
The 220V rails on the pole are neutral on top and 110 from each of the other legs. In the breaker box, the rails are vertical, with 110 (black) on either side in the middle, neutral on the outer (white) verticals and ground (bare) on the bottom.
Red is a 220V line with a double breaker.
You can do a "monkey see, monkey do", but please get someone with a knowledge of wiring to connect it to your breaker box. 110 gives me a wake-up, but 220 gives me pain.
so here's what I bought as seen in the eBay pictures, man it works great it charges my four 55 Ah batteries in less than 2 hours, I double checked and my garage EFI outlet is 20 amps saweeet, I was also able to mount it right where the oil cooler went originally on the bike so right in front behind the front wheel/fender
dnmun
1 PW
that charger will run on 240V too. that is why i think it would be sweet if people had 240V available for public charging spots.
i can carry 50A @ 240V out to my charging spots so i could charge 7 bikes at the same time with chargers that size. or 2 of the 6kW chargers that i expect will become the standard for plug in hybrids and the leaf and miev.
i can carry 50A @ 240V out to my charging spots so i could charge 7 bikes at the same time with chargers that size. or 2 of the 6kW chargers that i expect will become the standard for plug in hybrids and the leaf and miev.
skeetab5780
1 MW
ya whats that thing weigh tho...i wouldnt want to carry it around on my back
