29er TREADMILL Motor EBIKE BUILD 60V

[DATABASE00]

I got this controller http://www.ebay.com/itm/230764977009?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
PWM DC 12v -60V 30A 1500W DC Motor Speed Driver Adjuster Controller range 0-100%
Applies to DC12-60V low-voltage permanent magnet brush DC motor
Working voltage: DC12-60V wide voltage
Rated current: 30A, overload and short circuit protection current 35A.
Control Power: 60V is the maximum power of 1500W.
Size: 110 * W 78 * H 35
PWM range: 0% -100%
The governor used in all user-friendly terminals, user-friendly and flexible wiring.


but Im confussed a little it says 60v and 30amps isnt that 1800? and it says 1500watts achieved on 60v so thats only 25 amps. is my max amps go down as volts increased? think it can handle 1800 but tend to overheat so I would need bigger heatsink and fan if I wanted to hit the 1800 watts? short spurts.

secondly
I found a nice set on handlebars

http://www.ebay.com/itm/180851478288?item=180851478288&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
36V 48V 60V Volt LED POWER DISPLAY THROTTLE Grips ELECTRIC SCOOTER BIKE
there are 4 wires that come from it 2 are for vlotage of batteries dont I need three for throttle?. Can I plug these into my controller above do Iplug it into the spot where the adjuster knob is for speed? there are three wires there and
The cheaper handlebar throttles have 3 wires.


I picked up a treadmill motor Sportcraft Treadmill motor DC P. M.

2.25 H.P. 10 Amps , 90 Volts. CW Rotation . 4700 RPM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150804523206?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
and plan on running it at 48 or 60 volts

also picked up

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170830069362?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648
Item is a 2.5 HP, permanent magnet DC motor from a ProForm 830QT treadmill. Item comes with the belt and the driven pulley.
It was tested on a 12V battery and spun with no bearing noise.

which motor seems better for this project?

Im using a nexus ponderosa mountain bike alumin frame with 29" tires.

picked it up at a flea market for 45 bucks. but missing tires.

Do I still need Speed Reduction and Gearing

can I also get 1 more 12volt batterry for other accessories on bike and make like a turbo button that combines with the 60 volts to push out 72 volts to the motor for fast emergency speed if I need it?
just thoughts. thanks for any input guys.

 

[DATABASE00]

also have you heard of the nexus inter 7
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shimano_Nexus

could I put this on the motorside backwords so I can have multiple gears on the motor? and still have a cassett on my side of the chain so I can still pedal?or atleast a fixed gear for myself?
my mind is just boggoling with ideas right now.

 

[d8veh]

Four wires on the throttle: Three are fot the throttle and one for the LEDs. They share the earth (black wire) The LED's require battery voltage , so make sur that you have the throttle working with the correct three wires before attempting to connect the battery because if you get it wrong, you'll blow the throttle. My guess is:
Red throttle +5v
Blue throttle 0v
Green throttle signal
yellow battery voltage

They don't say whether it automatically selects the voltage for the battery, so you best tell them which voltage you want.

 

[DATABASE00]

if my controller has a dial for speed can I also plug in the handlebar controller so thatway I could use the knob as a cruise control on long roads?

 

[dnmun]

that pwm 'voltage controller' is for indoor use. the motors have no way to be integrated into the chainline so you you have to spend money to build up that chain drive on the left side using the motored bike type drive.

it would be much easier to just buy a brushless hub motor and controller kit and install that rather than trying to make something work like this since you won't be able to use that controller anyway.

there regularly are people selling their old hubmotors here on the sphere for $150-$250. and studebiker has an entire rear 9C direct drive setup for sale right now with a 36V10Ah headway pack for $500. that would save you a lot of headaches.

 

[amberwolf]

I have pretty much that exact motor/belt/pulley
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/$(KGrHqR,!l!E9Hm73Po1BPlhgzmKwQ~~60_12.JPG
out of a treadmill, which I successfully bench tested on CrazyBike2 before going with a powerchair motor with integrated gearbox. If you look thru my Electricle blog
http://electricle/blogspot.com
there is all the info needed on setting up a multiple-stage reduction to run it into the chain drive of a bike, if you want to--it's a lot easier on your motor/controller setup if you run thru the gears so you can shift down for startups from stops and whatnot. There are videos of testing it at various voltages using car batteries in the bench test.

 

[DATABASE00]

ok so a few things, the controller is for indoor use only? how is that possible? its a controller does it make a difference? Was going to put it in a box and make a fan blow for airflow?
Will it work?
Grannted start worring about riding in the rain, but who wants to ride in the rain in the first place.

I was also debating on a few things if I can get the belt to work properly wouldnt it be quiter?

And I was also thinking that I could always attach the belt to a gear reduction like in the picture I had posted, under load Im thinking Ill be around 2,000 rpm so hopefully I wont need that big of a gear reduction
I wont be running motor at full voltage.

How hard is it to weld on a metal sproket?? I have a spare one from my motorcycle. cant I just use that sprocket on the edge of this motor, doesnt have to stay belt driven.

Im still reading so Im sure people dont do it for a reason. but still looking.
Thanks for the input guys.

 

[d8veh]

if my controller has a dial for speed can I also plug in the handlebar controller so thatway I could use the knob as a cruise control on long roads?

Yes. That's exactly what I do. You need a switch on it so that you can switch it off when you stop. Put the switch on either the 5v wire or the signal wire. It's also best to use brakes with switches to switch off the controller when you apply the brakes.

If you want both a throttle and cruise control, you can do it like this:

 

[DATABASE00]

thats awsome, exactley what I was looking for thanks for the diagram.
So atleast I have throttle down interesting to see how the motors run, I have 2 so atleast I can choose or have a spare, I think Ill use the 90v motor and see what I come up with. I want to try and kep the peddles so its legal on the sidewals but it would be so much easier to make it like a motorcycle instead. but if battries die im stranded and co peddling I could go further.

Any idea if my controller will work even if it was designed for in doors?

 

[DATABASE00]

Just picked me up some alex dp20m rims and disc brakes yestersday got a good deal. still needing tires? found a few on craigslist but wondering should I gwet a wider tire? my rim is a 29x2.1 should I get like a 2,5 tire for faster speeds? does that help? or just get a 2.1 tire?

 

[DATABASE00]

has anyone ever seen a hub that has 2 cassetts on eachside? or a cassett on oneside and a single gear on the otherside.

 

[DATABASE00]

rough draft of my idea

 

[darkangel]

your bicycle looks nice don't destroy it,

if you really want to install this treadmill motor here is my suggestion, or what i would have done

be prepared to do some cutting, drilling or whatever

1. get sprockets for the wheel and motor it will cost you at least $80, or on my post there are some links if you would like to make your own sprockets it is easy as hell, forget that belt ugly thing
2. mount your motor in middle of the frame, as motor will be more secured. motor mount material, nuts and bolts should cost you at least $60.
3. make battery box over the motor at least 4" clearance
4. keep in mind shorter the cables it is better, i made mistake using the long cables for all electronics kind of stupid but whatever
5. get some battery bridge connectors for charging
6. forget about mounting anything over the rear wheel,
7. get controller i got (remember everything is in gear ratio, there are some links on my page so you can calculate where you want to be with speed)
8. forget riding it over 45mph otherwise you'll kill yourself, long chain has tendency to pop of the sprocket or whatever (how about belt drive? forget belt setup, its just to damn ugly)

once you have completed the mid frame battery, motor setup and everything runs good, now you can concentrate on bicycle cosmetics and electronics like fuses, switches, light dimmers or whatever.

just keep in mind, this bike setup is going to last you a long time to come so make it look nice and presentable it is worth money spent.

final estimate on money you will need to spend on this setup is about $350 -

 

[DATABASE00]

LOVE the feedback but here was my thought process. the motors are like 10" long. So if I put it in the midde of the bike I might not be able to peddle as well. My thought is you can peddle to go just a little further or if your batterries die you can still make it home. I have motorcycle sprokets already and a spare chain I was thinking of using. but its a little heavy o-ring for my 600cc bike. Ive also heard that belt drives are a little quiter at higher rpm. As far as driving 45mph not initually the plan but like the idea if I needed the power. Like my motorcycle there would have been a handful of times I would have been in an accident if i didnt have the power to get out of the way. I already got one controller that I will use it for testing and see how it will handle everything. But I might go a different model once I see how it runs.. The motors are only like 2.5hp with alot of torque so thats why I went with them. And I wouldnt have to worry about burrning them up. Like you said build long term.I have a dimondback 29er that I use on mountainbike trails which I love also a hardtail. The controller I have picked out has a higher overall wattage campatibility so I can squieze more power into motor if I wanted too. Although I have to get the handlebar ends with throttle myself.

 

[darkangel]

dang it man, 10"s, i wouldn't know what to do with that long of motor

all i know is, try to build something you are going to love otherwise you will build it and it will sit someplace for show.

 

[DATABASE00]

HAHA, I know I started thinking that just recently after looking at everone elses pictures. But I just hear of alot of people not geting the speed they want so they over volt their units and fry them. and thiose are some expensive motors.

I agree about trying to make it look decent so your not ashamed to be out in public with it, always nice to be stopped and let people be amazed on what you have built.
the 10 inches is end to end including pulley tip.

how long is your motor you have on your back wheel?
with that small of chain is it pretty quiet?
do you ever runinto motor being unbalanced from motor hanging on one side?

 

[darkangel]

Motor Dimensions: 4-1/4'' W x 6'' L not including shaft. 4-1/4'' W x 7'' L including shaft.

motor is pretty balanced no shaking or whatever i have spacers in b/w motor and motor mount and with two bolts holding the motor so i can adjust tightens of the chain, and chain is pretty wide compared to bicycle chain it is #415 chain and there is a nice not so loud sound kind of comforting.

overall setup of all crap on this bicycle is great i just need to decide on the motor i am just confused what is more important for the hills V or RPMS

 

[DATABASE00]

i was also thinking of have 60volts for my controller and run 1 more 12volt batterry for accessories and a turbo button that will combine the output of 60 volts with additional 12 volts from spare batterry to give a turbo lol. ill wait to see how everythign acts at 60 before trying to make a turbo. I havnt seen what motors can do yet. maybe this weeeknd ill put it in tire to rest and see if it will run just by ting it down and a few batteries lol

 

[darkangel]

just make sure to use correct wire gauge otherwise you will burn wires and create more problems

 

[darkangel]

later i will show you how to make battery connectors for parallel charging and serial motor run

i just got to find the dang link

 

[DATABASE00]

Have you heard of Battery Desulfator?
something to do woth golfcarts keeping the batteries working harder and longer?

 

[darkangel]

don't know much about it although,
I think its mainly used to protect battery from overvaluation and undervaluation so you don't end up with dead battery cells. it is good idea but its unnecessary if you have good controller

 

[torqueon]

DATABASE00

My bike build is very similar to what you have mind, I use a lawnmower motor which is 9 inch's end to end. Its a 2 stage reduction, the primary drive is out board and the secondary is in broad. I did it this way to keep the motor on center with the bike. The bike has several season on it and runs very good, no major issue's to date.

If interested I post picture's later

Good luck with build

 

[DATABASE00]

I am very interested in pictures of similar projects.
I also came across these 50pack of 18650 batteries 150 bucks they are 5000mah and was thinking I could user 24 to make my 90volt batter to push my motor to full power if I needed. Make two so I can run in pair and make it last longer. It would definetly keep the bike weight down but not sure how far it would drive for. deffinetly allow for faster starts.
Ive also seen 90 degree angle gear reductions that I might land up using to put motor lower on frame..

so many choices so little time before I want to buy something else for this project LOL.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Up-to-100V-...145?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f15d11f01
also found this controller 100volt 80 amp.
able to boost my 90volt motor just a little over voltage for those times I might need to push it.

 

[torqueon]

Pardon me I have picture's but can't size them for web page's !! Some how I lost that option.