2nd build. eBike v2.0 w/ disc brakes!

[ken1645]

I got the disc brake to work decently well by watching this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gt3XRYiFsqg

This is a Windsor Cliff 4700 26" mountain bike with a Yescomusa 1kW motor, Hua Tong 40A 1.5kW controller, 20s2p Turnigy Lipos 10Ah, new rear tire (Maxxis 2" Larsen TT) and Kenda heavy duty tube. Put this badass head light on http://www.ebay.com/itm/160983893815?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

and I've got a double kick stand ordered that should be pretty handy. http://www.ebay.com/itm/290952061225?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Original bike did not come with kick stand.

 

[dogman dan]

The way that lines up, I'd be real tempted to bolt right to the frame. Take some JB weld, and fill in that area, then drill a new hole to bolt it up.

But it does look like what you have will work.

 

[knighty]

I was about to say the same thing

dump the clamp which is around the frame, and the bracket attached to it

and attach the torque arm directly to the frame

there's some holes behind the bolt in the end of the torque arm already, do any of these line up ? (might need to drill one out a bit)

if you can get one of those to line up, then use one of those and it would be perfect...

you'll need some kind of spacer in there so the torque arm stays flat and doesn't twist, you could try another nut, a couple of washers so something like that, or use some epoxy like dogman suggests


by the look of it (hard to tell from the photos) you might just be able to drill it out and then bolt it straight on with no washers/packing at all, a little bit of bend is ok as long as your axle nuts are good and tight so the torque arm stays flat where it's on the axle and it's not bent where it's around the axle
(fine to bend it further back, just not tight where it's around the axle, it's week for bending there so could fracture over time)

 

[DAND214]

Is that an aluminum frame? If so be sure you have it straight with no load that will cause a crack at the drop out.

In the second pic it looks like a crack just in front of the nut. I know it's a pic and not there but check it.

I know what happens with an aluminum frame if it's loaded wrong. I broke or snapped a rear swing arm off by the brake, so check it.

Dan

 

[ken1645]

In the second pic it looks like a crack just in front of the nut. I know it's a pic and not there but check it.

I know what happens with an aluminum frame if it's loaded wrong. I broke or snapped a rear swing arm off by the brake, so check it.

Dan

Yeah it's aluminum, the frame has a few scratches which may look like a crack. I'ts not cracked.

& thanks for the help w/ the torque arm. Yeah I think one hole in the frame may work if I drill it out. I'll try that.
It's surprising how much I've had to drill just on this bike so far.. the disc brake had to go on this adapter thing I got which screws on the hub motor, the allen wrench screws only came with 5 for 6 holes. A local bike shop gave me a free screw / bolt for the missing one which was sweet, but the disc brake holes were too small for the screws. I tried a wood drill bit at first not realizing it was for wood and it eventually shrunk from the metal winning. Got a metal drill bit and was golden.

-Kendall

 

[ken1645]

Okay I got my 2nd eBike up and running! It took a bit of motivation for me to actually cut up the connectors on my controller and do the soldering necessary to complete my build. The motivation was me riding my normal bike while my brother rode my 1st eBike... It's hot in Houston right now.

One question though: The rear brake cable goes along the top tube of the frame and the battery bag when loaded makes the brake stick in from the battery weight. What do y'all do to overcome that?

I was thinking a cut up small PVC pipe along the top side to protect the brake / gear change cables and allow them to move freely, then zip tie that PVC onto the frame, THEN put the velcro straps of the battery bag along the frame. I'll try this out on Monday if no other better ideas.

 

[ken1645]

Got her running. I used some shipping bubble mailers along the top of the frame tube to protect the bake cable and it doesn't stick anymore. It kind of blends in to the bike too, hard to notice since the bike is yellow.

edit: I am really enjoying this bike! The shocks on this handle 40mph over small bumps on the road like a breeze. My Maxxis Larsen TT UST K tire 26 x 2.0 on my rear hub motor are badass!!

 

[ken1645]

On Monday I rode my bike out to Karbach Brewery to drink free beer. My bike held up great but the next morning I noticed my rear disc brake disc was able to freely move around. I'm not sure how I didn't notice it the night before but it was like the adapter thing to mount the disc brake disc had its screws stripped and wouldn't screw on anymore.


This is the adapter thing: http://www.hnmotors.de/product_info.php?products_id=113&XTCsid=c2e41ab37d88d903d625a3c4aa6bbe0b

I had another adapter thing but it was way too skinny to get the disc to line up properly. Using a few washers I found a way though

Back in business!

 

[bowlofsalad]

Can you talk about your experiences and opinions on use with a UST rim? How many miles have you ridden on it? Have you pulled anything from the tube? Thanks.

 

[HAROX]

@ken1645, I sure hope, you triple check that small flange and those washers regularly.
Tell you what I see. The base of the disc is not in contact with the flange, so it's technically a breakaway joint.
Your brakes must not break away. They can burn up. You can grind the disc to shards, but a breaking brake?
You need a solid flange is what I'm suggesting, ultimately for safety reasons.

Otherwise i like the ambitious build.
harox