3d printed Pulley (or is it gear) for Abec clones

beto_pty

1 kW
Joined
Dec 17, 2013
Messages
480
Location
Panama City, Republic of Panama
Hey guys

Just got a 3d printer a couple weeks ago.. the best toy ever... actually it is more like cristmas than a toy .. cause everyday is a new toy..
Thanks to torque for the suggestion bought the flashforge chinese cnc... works wonders and beautifully
http://www.flashforge-usa.com/shop/3d-printers/flashforge-creator-pro-dual-extrusion-3d-printer.html
I got it direct from china, which someone supposedly posted in a fourm that you can no loger do. Mine took a couple weeks more to get here but cost about $75 less... but it is the same item.

Printed the first sample under an hour after connecting it and have not stopped since.. this thing rocks.. having some experience with my aluminum cnc of course helps but this thing is definitly something anyone can master... There end of rant..

My sketchup/design abilities are fair to badishh.. and ive tried to design a 40 tooth htd5 abec clone gear/pulley part to print out of ABS, I know there are a cuple designs but I need the file in stl, 3ds, or thing files so that i can print them out using the makerbot slice engine.. anybody got the design?
 
That's odd.. maybe the their new US distribution takes those orders. You can still order from Amazon and it will ship from China.

Checkout SDP-SI.com and download their pulley CAD. I don't like the 3d printed pulleys though. :) The molded ones in polycarbonate are way better. ABS 3D Printed is pretty brittle.
 
Thanks I was looking for the complete pulley that would fit inside the abecs...
I was actually thinking in using a special stronger pla... from polymaker...
http://www.polymakr.com/web/pro.html#pro_r11_c2

I'd try them at 100% infill..
 
The pulleys I got that fit in the abec are polypropylene. Pretty sure. Stronger than the other polys I think.
Check I materialize .com, where I got mine if you want to check.
 
I've had really good experience with 3D printed ABS, it's a lot less brittle than PLA.

My experience is that 40~60% infill is stronger than 100% - plastic tends to shrink as it cools, and parts of your pulley will be put under uneven amounts of stress, depending on what cools first. It's less of a problem if your printer's enclosed, but the lower infill also gives the part a tiny bit of flex.


I smooth my pulleys with acetone, too: it merges the layers together, and seems to strengthen the part pretty significantly.
 
thanks guys...
Hummina's suggestion...
http://i.materialise.com/shop/item/247a7827-e1ab-484e-97aa-a6f7fb197a5e?query=skateboard&category=all-categories&sortBy=interesting&pageNumber=1&pageSize=18&index=0 unfortunately there is no file provided... but the idea seems easier than I had thought..
rs4rce ive done several sweeps in thingiverse and a couple other places.. will try again...
Brent my 3dprinter is heated bed enclosed so no problem there.. I will try the acetone trick and the 60%infill trick thanks
Torque wanted to get the contour of the wheel so that it would be hubcentric as opposed to boltcentric....
onloop get one now!

will give this a couple more days see if anyone has anything..if not i guess ill try to wing it.... using straight perforated connectors ... might not be so imposible...
 
Yes they don't give the file there. Dirkdiggler put it up there. I was writing to tell about the material used. But maybe you don't need something as strong as polypropylene. I think it's rare a printer can use it anyway and maybe other materials are strong enough. The design there, and that I have, is intended to use a small bearing to mount it which is cool. And seemingly unnecessary depending
I've seen the part on thingy verse too. I have the complex shaped part on file if u want but you'd be better getting it there likely
 
The acetone is a nice touch. Good thinking.

Dirk's pulley utilizes a pulley so you would have to remove that part if you are using standard trucks. It's a similar Evolve pulley type. Evolve's truck axles are a bit longer to accommodate the MBS wheel's width. I think..

I've done the hub centric and it works great. Sandwiching the leg's on the wheel works great too. Either or works. I think using M6 bolts works well. They fit perfectly for these type of wheels. I'd rather have a bolt than 3d printed plastic holding my wheel together.
 
Hey guys
can you post the thingyverse part?
Several of you have mentioned it being there, however that was my first stop a couple weeks ago and I have searched a dozen times under a dozen keywords and it does not appear under any of them...
 
beto_pty said:
Hey guys
can you post the thingyverse part?
Several of you have mentioned it being there, however that was my first stop a couple weeks ago and I have searched a dozen times under a dozen keywords and it does not appear under any of them...

Here's the one from voodoojar - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:239165
 
What the best online resources for learning about 3D printer's. .. might be time to invest
 
To Onoloop, best and original website to learn how 3D printers came to be, I believe is http://forums.reprap.org. Tons of help and plenty of information for RepRap and other open source printers. If information like wikipedia is what you need then go to RepRap's wiki page. Another forum is http://3dprintboard.com/

I do have a 3D printer, a Prusa i2, its good for the build volume it has, but not adequate for larger item. I plan to build a second printer with a large build volume. In the market right now, there are better printers with build volumes similar and larger than the Prusa i2 capable of excellent resolution like 0.1mm or 100 micron layer.
 
@onloop - I'd go with flashforge. Print straight from the box for the same price. The newer ones are nice too better than mine. I have a reprap still not fully assembled collecting dust. Not worth the time to put it together atm.

If you want to print in Nylon make sure to get an extruder that can handle it.
 
If anyone wants some in aluminum I've got a couple with 5m threaded screw holes. They're a tight fit on the real abec11. The fake ones center is way too fat for them. Besides the point but the fake ones use much harder polyurethane.

But I just realized your looking for something for the fakes. The imaterilze ones fit
The real. And I think from looking at the thingy verse design it looks to be for the real too. And there was another design on ther where the prongs screwed in somehow and were separate small pieces. I forget how it worked but something to look for maybe
 
Hi onloop
Got the creator pro dual extruder...
Will handle 2 materals or 2 colors.. rocks and comes 90% assembled. You will be printing parts in under an hour.
http://www.flashforge-usa.com/shop/3d-printers/flashforge-creator-pro-dual-extrusion-3d-printer.html
These guys are in your neck of the woods...
http://www.the3dprinter.com.au/products/flashforge-creator-ii-3d-printer

This thing really rocks! love it..
 
Back
Top