48 Volt Lights for Electric Bicycle

[marty]

I am making a new Topic for 48V Lights. Please only post ideas for 48V Lights. No 12V or 24V lights wired in series please. No voltage converters please. Bike battery is 48V Therefore lights shall also be 48V. And that is the way that it will be.

Lots of other bicycle light discussion here Lights and here Headlights... Flashlight heads all at CandlePowerForums

Found this 48V Fork Lift light

See discussion here Lights

Are there any other 48V headlights for bicycles, helmets, flashlights, RC stuff, space ships, etc

Also need RED light on rear of bicycle. Today I made a major discovery in my search for 48V lights. Walked into Auto Parts Store with the 55V bulb [SPC part # 1835] I used in my battery tester. See picture.

Parts guy pulls out http://www.grote.com catalog. He says #1893 12V bulb is same size as mine More Truck Lights here http://www.truck-lite.com
Will buy this Clearance/Marker Lamp

Now I could use the 55V Incandescent bulbs I got. Got a box of 10. But that would not be cool.

Cadstarsucks [Dan] says: "I am wondering why when they are mentioned here why everyone talks about 20W halogen headlights when a 5W LED puts out as much or more light..." Dan likes LEDs Think LEDs use less power?

Found Two 48V LED Bulb Replacements. Would someone please explain Luminous Flux, Luminous Intensity UCD and MCD?

CEC INDUSTRIES LM1048MB-W

Item Number LM1048MB-W
Desc True 360 LED Miniature
Color White
Plastic Envelope Shape T-3 1/4
Bulb Dia (in) 13/32
Base Type Miniature Bayonet (BA9s)
Design Volts 48.00
Mili Amp (mA) 30.00
Design Watts 0.72
BiPolar No
Viewing Angle Degree 360
Luminous Flux 0.78 or Luminous Intensity:0.78ucd
Wave Length 0
Avg Life Hrs 100,000
Replaces 48MB,3T4/48V

MARL 255-997-64-38

LED Bulb Replacement
LED Color:White
Forward Current:10mA
Forward Voltage:48V
Luminous Intensity:3000mcd or LUMINOUS INTENSITY lv@20mA 14000
Color:Cool White
Leaded Process Compatible:Yes
Lens Color:Clear
Lens Width:9.2mm
Voltage Rating:8 - 48V RoHS Compliant: Yes

CEC is $12.25 each
MARL is $20.92 each
More details here Newark

Which bulb is brighter? Could just buy both of them and look

Any other 48V Miniature Bayonet Base Type bulbs available on this planet? Any other headlights or red rear lights that would work with my 48V battery?

Thanks All for your help with Electric Bike Project # 2

 

[Toorbough ULL-Zeveigh]

uh, hate to break it to ya, but every LED operates at under 5 volts (g'head, someone will no doubt post the exception).
The LED's you've pictured are either running in series or off a voltage converter.
That only leaves incandescent which can be manufactured to any required voltage but good luck finding any kind of decent selection on anything off-standard.
Since you peruse CPF you know that even hot-wires are over-volted or run regulated down from the battery.
Frankly, I don't understand your bias against using a DC converter? :?
They've gotten super-efficient in recent times & getting cheaper all the time, but that's your choice I guess.

 

[calinb]

My bias against a voltage converters is a mostly a bias against another little box floating around (or zipped-tied or velcroed) somewhere, though I've also found it difficult to locate a small converter to efficiently power a 25 watt 12 V light. I'm sure they exist, I just haven't found one yet.

I installed the JW Speaker light that that Marty posted above. The voltage converter is integrated into the housing and it's good for up to 60 V on the supply, according to a JW Speaker representative.

-Cal

 

[marty]

More bulbs. Need headlight housing. Go find your flashlights, bike lights, helmet lights, etc. See if these bulbs fit?
____________________________________________________________________________________________________

#60RC MINIATURE REFLECTOR BULB E12 BASE - 60 Volt .05 Amp T-2 With Reflector, 1800EFC MSCP,
C-2F Filament Design. 7,500 Average Rated Hours, 1.22" Maximum Overall Length.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________

T5.5 36V-130V WHITE L.E.D. MINIATURE BULB E12 BASE - White L.E.D. T5-1/2 Candelabra (E12) Screw Base
36 Volt-130 Volt AC/DC. 100,000 Average Rated Hours, 1.48" Maximum Overall Length, 0.67" Maximum Overall Diameter.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________

T5.5 36V-130V WHITE L.E.D. MINIATURE BULB BA15D BASE - White L.E.D. T5-1/2 Clear Double Contact (Ba15d) Base
36 Volt-130 Volt AC/DC. 100,000 Average Rated Hours, 1.30" Maximum Overall Length, 0.67" Maximum Overall Diameter.
OR
Single Contact (Ba15S)Base
____________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

[TylerDurden]

random thoughts:

The truck lampholder/lens may melt w/ 55W incandescents.

The threaded E-12 base lamps may unscrew themselves with vibration.

 

[marty]

uh, hate to break it to ya, but every LED operates at under 5 volts (g'head, someone will no doubt post the exception).
The LED's you've pictured are either running in series or off a voltage converter.
That only leaves incandescent which can be manufactured to any required voltage but good luck finding any kind of decent selection on anything off-standard.

Wonder how these LEDs work with voltages way higher then 5V :?
Incandescent are fine with me. Xenon, Neon, Krypton, Halogen, Halide, Sodium, Kerosene, Hexane or Laser lamps all OK too.

Since you peruse CPF you know that even hot-wires are over-volted or run regulated down from the battery.

Do not understand?

The truck lampholder/lens may melt w/ 55W incandescent.

That was 55V not 55W. Watts is 2.75W

The threaded E-12 base lamps may unscrew themselves with vibration.

As of now I have no socket. Screw base bulbs do seem better suited for a building then a vehicle.

Ok now.... you all hoping Santa will bring you a electric bike? Look what I am giving you all for Christmas / Hanukah!

Yes a GIF image of Bulb Base Types!

Been learning about base types. Please correct me if I am wrong.
Miniature Bayonet is what I used in my battery tester. Got bunch of Incandescent. We can call these bulbs "Marty Bulbs"
S.C. Bayonet (Ba15S) is single contact bayonet. Don't know where these are used? Scooters?
D.C. Bayonet (Ba15D) is double contact bayonet. Think these are very common with autos?
Candelabra (E12) Screw Base. Think these are used in chandlers?

Please go find your flashlights, bike lights, helmet lights, etc. See if you see any of these base types??? Want a small lightweight 48V headlight for Electric Bike Project # 2

 

[TylerDurden]

S.C. Bayonet (Ba15S) is single contact bayonet. Don't know where these are used? Scooters?
D.C. Bayonet (Ba15D) is double contact bayonet. Think these are very common with autos?
Candelabra (E12) Screw Base. Think these are used in chandlers?

Both bayonet types are common in autos:
Double contact is for brake/taillight combo.
Single contact is for seperate tail/turn/reverse.

Mini bayonet are common in various applications: from autos to pinball machines.

 

[marty]

TylerDurden,
Looks like the 48V bicycle headlight in my mind will use Miniature Bayonet, or the larger Single Contact Bayonet base bulbs. Due the prices of bicycle headlights with a separate battery. About $200 to $800 per light Will not even think about them.

Here is my thinking as of today? Find a reflector and housing that takes Miniature Bayonet, or the larger Single Contact Bayonet base bulbs. ANY ONE HAVE ANY IDEAS

OR
Go to WalMart, buy a bunch of flashlights and see if any of them are easily adapted to Miniature Bayonet, or the larger Single Contact Bayonet base bulbs? Replace the socket? There are lots of sockets for sale.

OR
Do the Halogen, Home Depot plumbing electrical parts thing. Try to attach different socket to the Halogen reflector you all using. See discussion on that over at http://visforvoltage.org/forum/accessories/1280

A few pictures to get you all thinking.

Knightmb,
Your site was down today. Glad to see you back

 

[marty]

48V Bicycle lighting progress report.
Called some LED manufacturers. They all said "Not too bright" Will forget about LEDs for now.
How about PAR36 ? Looks like a easy to find common bulb.

Lamp Type Sealed Beam
Lamp Designation 4340
Lamp Shape PAR36
Watts 80
Voltage 48
Lamp Description Electric Truck Work Light, Slip-on Terminals (15)
Average Life (Hours) 400
Base Slip-on Term
Max. Overall Length (In.) 2.75

LED Also available
http://www.jwspeaker.com/catalog/forward_lighting/model_6040.html
LED RETROFIT FOR PAR36 SEALED BEAMS Glass Lens

Current Draw : 180 mAmps @ 48 volts

Lots of Housings available.
http://grote.com/product.php?product_number=64561

Should be able to buy a tractor light at a local place, and a 48V PAR36 # 4340 bulb for not too much money? Only thing I don't like about PAR36 is the size. PAR36 is 36 one eighths inches or 4 ½â€ in diameter. Bit big for a electric bicycle.

Lets not get to BRIGHT with our bike lights

 

[marty]

Electric Bicycle Project # 2 progress report - Got motor mounted in rear dropouts. Got electrical stuff on table all hooked up. Motor spins! Cycle Analyst looks great. MPH, volts and lots more information. Kinda like a lesson in electricity.

Plan on putting controller in a water proof box. Got some questions. Here is picture I steal from Fechter.

First question? Is there any drain on battery when controller switch is off?

____________________________________________________________________________________________________

The throttle wires as shown are
Red= +5v
Black= ground
White= signal

Second question? If I forget about my 48V light idea? Can I tap into the 5V RED and BLACK Throttle wires for some 5V lights?

Are there any other low voltage outputs on this controller that could be used for lighting?

Think small lightweight 5V bicycle lights would be easier to find then 48V.

 

[rkosiorek]

answer #1 if you are talking about the little switch on the side of the controller as the "power" switch - yes there is still a drain. the drain will be small. it is composed of the leakage current through the 3 large capacitors at the top of the circuit board.

answer #2 the 5V supply id through a LM78L05 voltage regulator it is limited to 100ma total. the controller does not use the full amount. but you would likely only be able to use 50ma or so. not much use there.

i would suggest that the best solution is either a separate switching supply or a constant current source. the constant current source would be the most economical to build requiring only a LM317 regulator, resistor and a heatsink to make. it could even fit inside of the controller case. the limitation is that it would have to be designed for a particular set of lights or LED's.

rick

 

[marty]

answer #1 if you are talking about the little switch on the side of the controller as the "power" switch - yes there is still a drain. the drain will be small. it is composed of the leakage current through the 3 large capacitors at the top of the circuit board.

rick

OK measure this drain with controller switch off. Put Amp Meter in series between positive side of battery and RED power wire. Set meter on Amps 200U [U is not a U. Weird looking U shape thing?] reading is 1.9 and going down. While I typing it went down to 1.5 Will this drain battery if bike sits for a month or two?

answer #2 the 5V supply id through a LM78L05 voltage regulator it is limited to 100ma total. the controller does not use the full amount. but you would likely only be able to use 50ma or so. not much use there.

i would suggest that the best solution is either a separate switching supply or a constant current source. the constant current source would be the most economical to build requiring only a LM317 regulator, resistor and a heatsink to make. it could even fit inside of the controller case. the limitation is that it would have to be designed for a particular set of lights or LED's.

rick

OK think I will give up on the 48V light idea and use a DC to DC converter to power 5V lights. Have almost completed modification of MagLite. Changed socket to accept 48V bulb. Its bright, but beam is a bit funky. Can see shadow from bulb filament.

http://cecindustries.com/user/_ProdMinInc_view.php?editid=6S6+SC+48V
http://www.donsbulbs.com is great place for hard to find bulbs.
Had cool mounting bracket all figured out. Was going to cut flashlight shorter like this guy did.

Go here to see I've finished my bike lights!! Now with Beam Shots

 

[Link]

uh, hate to break it to ya, but every LED operates at under 5 volts (g'head, someone will no doubt post the exception).
The LED's you've pictured are either running in series or off a voltage converter.

I know of no exception. I don't think there is, simply because of how they work. Unless they've built a gamma ray LED and I don't know about it .

Also: I think they run off a 48V source, and have their own tiny DC/DC supply in the housing.

answer #1 if you are talking about the little switch on the side of the controller as the "power" switch - yes there is still a drain. the drain will be small. it is composed of the leakage current through the 3 large capacitors at the top of the circuit board.

rick

OK measure this drain with controller switch off. Put Amp Meter in series between positive side of battery and RED power wire. Set meter on Amps 200U [U is not a U. Weird looking U shape thing?] reading is 1.9 and going down. While I typing it went down to 1.5 Will this drain battery if bike sits for a month or two?

answer #2 the 5V supply id through a LM78L05 voltage regulator it is limited to 100ma total. the controller does not use the full amount. but you would likely only be able to use 50ma or so. not much use there.

i would suggest that the best solution is either a separate switching supply or a constant current source. the constant current source would be the most economical to build requiring only a LM317 regulator, resistor and a heatsink to make. it could even fit inside of the controller case. the limitation is that it would have to be designed for a particular set of lights or LED's.

rick

The drain keeps going down until the caps are level with the batts (takes a REALLY long time when you get to the last few mV). Then the drain will be equal to the cap's leakage current. That "µ" (micro-) symbol can be made by holding down "alt" and typing "230" into the number pad.

I doubt you'd have to worry about draining your batts. 1.5µA is the same as 0.000001A. If you have a 10Ah batt, it will take you ~1140 years to drain your batts .

I don't know if a linear voltage regulator would be the best thing. At the current levels you'd need to power a bright light set, you'd be dissipating a LOT of power. It would get very hot, and, of course, not be very efficient.

 

[rkosiorek]

much better idea than usung it as a linear regulator is to set it as a constant current source.

many of the high output white or blue LED's are actually a UV led that excites a florescent coating. a lot of those run off of 4.0V at 20 to 40ma. string 10 of those n series and you have 40V. now if you use a LM317 not as a linear regulator but as a 20 to 40mA (matched to LED specification) constant current source you could feed the string and it will maintain a constant brightness throughout the battery voltage range from fully charged to discharged. power dissipated would be 52V (fully charged) -40V = 12V. 12V X 0.04A = 0.48W if we use the 40mA LEDs.

rick

 

[Link]

Whoops, didn't read it carefully. NVM. Good idea, in that case.

 

[marty]

I measure voltage at Power LED. See 52V about the same as my battery. Is that really a LED? It's clear but lights up RED. How can it be that it seems to be running on 52V ? You all keep telling me that LEDs run on about 2V to 5V.

Can I use those Power LED.... RED and BLACK wires to power the lighting on my bicycle? Would use larger gauge wire. Not exactly sure what I will use for lighting? Thinking of 55V incandescent bulbs in red truck light Clearance/Marker Lamp on rear of bicycle. See first page this topic. And really bright 5V LED headlight with resistor or DC to DC converter, on front of bicycle.

I like the fact that the power at this connector shuts down with controller power switch. Shut off bicycle and lights go off. I change the wiring in all my big vehicles [cars trucks] so the lights go off when I turn off ignition switch. Use relays. Never need to remember to turn lights on or off. Lights on all the time for safety.

 

[SniperGaulois]

if 10V of LED is more robust and 20 times more durable, and brighter than 48v of incandescent/halogen...I don't see the point! at least have 48v of leds...

 

[fechter]

View attachment 1
I measure voltage at Power LED. See 52V about the same as my battery. Is that really a LED? It's clear but lights up RED. How can it be that it seems to be running on 52V ? You all keep telling me that LEDs run on about 2V to 5V.

Can I use those Power LED.... RED and BLACK wires to power the lighting on my bicycle?

Hmm...for sure it is a LED. I guess there is a resistor hiding under the heat shrink or something. You could use the wires to power other lights. Just be sure the total load does not exceed the rating of the switch.

 

[marty]

Hmm...for sure it is a LED. I guess there is a resistor hiding under the heat shrink or something. You could use the wires to power other lights. Just be sure the total load does not exceed the rating of the switch.

Thanks Fechter.... Will do autopsy on LED and look for a resistor. Going to put this Electric Bike Project # 2 on hold for a few days. Got to work and make $ :?

 

[Jay64]

Just thought I would share this with everyone since the topic was brought up. I know it isn't exactly what was asked for in the original post, I still thought it would be some good information for everyone.

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=37349

 

[marty]

Hmm...for sure it is a LED. I guess there is a resistor hiding under the heat shrink or something. You could use the wires to power other lights. Just be sure the total load does not exceed the rating of the switch.

Thanks Fechter.... Will do autopsy on LED and look for a resistor. Going to put this Electric Bike Project # 2 on hold for a few days. Got to work and make $ :?

Cut the heat shrink off. There is no resistor hiding there. Still wondering what's going on here? Is this some kind of high power LED that can take 52V ? Am I not measuring voltage properly?

Guess I could connect LED directly to battery and see if it pops?

 

[fechter]

I have seen LED's with internal resistors before, but not in a controller. You could try and measure (carefully) across the LED leads when it is lit.

 

[marty]

Turn controller on. Measure 52V at LED connector. Plug in LED. It lights up. Measure 1.8V at LED leads and also at connector. What's going on here? Why does voltage change from 52V to 1.8V when LED is connected?
:? :? :?

 

[fechter]

There's a resistor on the circuit board that limits the current. Your meter does not load the resistor, so you see the voltage on the other side of it. When the LED is connected, the resistor drops the voltage to the forward voltage of the LED. This sounds normal.