4mm spring and 4pin gold bullets for phase wires

[999zip999]

So running 72 v 40 amps with at Lynn controller for my phase wire I use for 4mm gold plated bullets one is the 4-pin male the other mail is that spring one for yellow and blue phase wires have the spring one melted the shrink wrap. I didn't know there was that much of a difference in resistance.

 

[calab]

Did you solder them yourself?
Do you have any pics?

So running 72 v 40 amps with at Lynn controller for my phase wire I use for 4mm gold plated bullets one is the 4-pin male the other mail is that spring one for yellow and blue phase wires have the spring one melted the shrink wrap. I didn't know there was that much of a difference in resistance.

 

[DogDipstick]

We use alot of EC5mm gold bullets in RC helicopter flight. Upwards of 14kW. I have one 3kW, and my other one is 12kW. 14s/200A Hobbywing ESCs... , just about the max for us RC heli guys. Many HK lipo packs come with the EC5.... EC5 is *supposed * to handle 120A contin... so you see where the problem may be. Desoldering an EC5 in flight is something you have to keep an eye out for. I have done it for sure. EC3 and EC5 connectors "belong" to Horizon Hobby, and they are the only ones that are *not* clones. ("Eflite" brand).

....oh yea we know there is one kind of bullet to stay away from. The clone EC5... because of the reason you state.

There are * birdcage* style.. and there are "split barrel". The birdcage are the clones and they fail, regularly. Drop a 14lb 160mph heli out of the sky faster than you can think " Autorotation".


Next step up is XT150, and then again, make sure you get the split barrel, not the birdcage clones. EC5 is good for 10g, XT150, you can fit 8g in there.

 

[E-HP]

*
There are * birdcage* style.. and there are "split barrel". The birdcage are the clones and they fail, regularly. Drop a 14lb 160mph heli out of the sky faster than you can think " Autorotation".

Next step up is XT150, and then again, make sure you get the split barrel, not the birdcage clones. EC5 is good for 10g, XT150, you can fit 8g in there.

Do you have a pic of the two styles? I've been switching to XT150 for my phases, but I think I may be using the birdcage style . I very rarely will disconnect/connect them, vs. using them in an RC application, so maybe I won't have a problem.

 

[999zip999]

okay found my different connectors and solder 4 mm 4 pin and 4 mm spring pin.

 

[999zip999]

should I use a conductive Grease like idea noalux or something else ? Or should I move up from the formula mm to the 5.5 this is with a Lin 18 fat controller set at 40 amps I really want to turn it up to 65 amps and put in a three-way switch. And reprogram. Or ?

 

[DogDipstick]

should I use a conductive Grease like idea noalux or something else ? Or should I move up from the formula mm to the 5.5 this is with a Lin 18 fat controller set at 40 amps I really want to turn it up to 65 amps and put in a three-way switch. And reprogram. Or ?

I do, and still will. You have to have something. I mean, this is from advice fgiven to me and experience: Always use somthing. And yes, NoLUx is conductive. I still have a repaired Lyen. 24Fat controller.

*
There are * birdcage* style.. and there are "split barrel".

Do you have a pic of the two styles?

Those are the two styles above.. the birdcage style is the one with the thin spring loaded pawls and the ring around the top. THe others are beefier and longer lasting.

 

[E-HP]

Those are the two styles above.. the birdcage style is the one with the thin spring loaded pawls and the ring around the top. THe others are beefier and longer lasting.

Mine look like the second from the top on the left, paired with the second from the top on the right, so not birdcage. :thumb:
Thanks!

 

[999zip999]

Kool what is the best solder for me to use and what's the best flux ? I mean I'm a jeweler I have four different types of silver solder but they're all 860/ 950/ 1100/ 1250/1350 degrees , but that with a dancing touch and above I have gold solder and that's 1000 degrees and above But with silver you must heat the whole project and gold just heat the joint and copper is different also, then there's plumbing solder and electrical solder 6/40 silver enhance solder What solder should I use ? I'm using radio shack right now.

 

[fechter]

The 60/40 solder in the picture is hard to beat. It has close to the lowest melting point so you don't have to fry everything to get a good joint. If your connectors are unsoldering themselves, you have other problems.

 

[999zip999]

How about conductive Grease ?
The last time I unsoldered the 4mm I just got the wire into the female bullet a lucky break.
Yes in the picture are 5.5 mm and 4 mm

 

[99t4]

Sometimes I have heard (when having stubborn soldering problems) to try with a new spool of solder; something about old solder being a potential problem.

Q: What gets old in the solder? And how does that affect its performance?

My major takeaway from 7th grade electric shop (sadly not offered anymore):
Keep the tip clean and tinned
Cant "push" the solder into where you want it, has to flow itself in (to where the heat is).

Mostly that has served me well

 

[fechter]

Old solder can get a layer of oxidation on the surface. You can clean it off if you want to use it. It should look shiny. Good flux is important too. Getting enough heat into the right spots and getting a good flow is the main thing. I use a block of wood with a hole drilled in it to hold the contact while soldering. You need to use some force between the soldering iron and the work to get good heat transfer.

 

[gobi]

This video rang home for me, I stopped buying ANY connector off ebay/ali etc, except for Amass off amazon or name brand from mauser/digikey etc.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZASKMqgrY70

next time I order off digi I need to get some those German banana plugs, not pricey but with shipping adds up.

What is the go to lube? I have de-ox but that stuff is nasty looking.