9C hall sensors, what a PITA to replace

[zombiess]

Popped one hall sensor at the grange race, ordered up the honeywell ss41's to replace them. Was told just do all 3 at the same time and worry no more. Pulled the motor off the bike, popped the cover, looked at the halls and said "should be done in 45 mins". 3 hours later, 2 are replaced, 3rd one still needs some work to get the new one to sit correctly in the hole. Whatever it is 9C used to glue these into the stator, they didn't ever want them to come out. Had to smash two of them and get them out piece by piece, one I was able to work loose and actually remove whole (the dead one of course). So 2/3 done and tested. Tomorrow night my bike should rise from the dead and ride again. I think I'm just going to use some RTV silicone to hold them in place at the wires vs whatever 9C used. Dang is that stuff durable. Was hard as heck to get out of the axle tube too when I upgraded the phase wires to 12 AWG.

 

[Philistine]

THe clearance on those hall sensors (for the wires i mean) in the 9c is tough work, my sympathies are with you, me and a buddy changed them in his 9C not long ago it was a nightmare. I am replacing my halls on my x5 right now and it is much easier.

 

[miuan]

Hi zombiess, I see your pain but have you ever tried to replace a sensor in a geared motor?
The most trouble I had when replacing mine was pulling the wheel off my bike and popping the 9c cover open which did require substantial force.
Replacing the sensors was quite a relief, after all of that.

 

[dnmun]

i used an old soldering iron, do it outside with a fan blowing the air if no breeze, dig it out with the tip and use a pick to hook the goop deep in the slot and dig it out. that was cruel for that guy to tell you to do all three. bet you never listen to him again.

 

[zombiess]

i used an old soldering iron, do it outside with a fan blowing the air if no breeze, dig it out with the tip and use a pick to hook the goop deep in the slot and dig it out. that was cruel for that guy to tell you to do all three. bet you never listen to him again.

It's not cruel, it's a good idea because the Honeywells have such a good spec and can run up to 150C. Not sure what the specs are on the parts that were in there, but now all 3 will be identical and I'll hopefully never have to do this again (unless these don't register the signal properly at which point, I'll go postal. Going to design something to protect the wires for my next crash. Probably a bolt for a peg welded onto that side of the swing arm to act as a slider, just like on a motor cycle when I lay it down and it slides so it doesn't tear up my wiring... maybe two pegs so I can start stuntin LOL. Having that done before the race would have saved me many many hours of work so far, probably 24+ hours so far into repairing this... grrrr.

Hi zombiess, I see your pain but have you ever tried to replace a sensor in a geared motor?
The most trouble I had when replacing mine was pulling the wheel off my bike and popping the 9c cover open which did require substantial force.
Replacing the sensors was quite a relief, after all of that.

popping the covers off the 9C was like a 10 sec process after all the hex bolts were removed, super easy. Screw driver + hammer = breaks the seal, cover comes right off. No geared hubbies for me, they won't handle much power without breaking and I abuse power on a daily basis on anything with a motor and wheels.

 

[zombiess]

Done and success. Took it for a test ride last night and let my friend go for his very first ebike ride. He has a F4i 600ci motor in a Banshee he rides at the sand dunes and he came back shaking after I let him have a spin at power level 2 (70%) on my pack which was only at 120V unloaded and 45A battery current. He loved it!

 

[eNkEi]

guys i found the middle hall sensor was upside down compaired to the rest, wired to accommodate upside downess but that sensor has died (in 3 days i mite add)

should i put it the right way up or would this cause prolems?

 

[zombiess]

guys i found the middle hall sensor was upside down compaired to the rest, wired to accommodate upside downess but that sensor has died (in 3 days i mite add)

should i put it the right way up or would this cause prolems?

Was the sensor wired correctly? You should place them into the slots in the correct way to make sure they read correctly. Can take some serious work to get the old sensors out due to the way they are glued in. I replaced all 3 of mine instead of just the one I killed.

 

[eNkEi]

guys i found the middle hall sensor was upside down compaired to the rest, wired to accommodate upside downess but that sensor has died (in 3 days i mite add)

should i put it the right way up or would this cause prolems?

Was the sensor wired correctly? You should place them into the slots in the correct way to make sure they read correctly. Can take some serious work to get the old sensors out due to the way they are glued in. I replaced all 3 of mine instead of just the one I killed.

It was wired correctly and came out fairly easily (only sealed with silicone) with a mini screwdriver.

I have ordered Honeywell SS466A 180gauss do you think these will be ok... iv ordered 3 so i can replace all but not sure if I will bother.

 

[eNkEi]

so i replaced 2 of the sensors in the end and did the wheel spin test to check they were all toggling on and off, they all work fine.

STILL not working though. I get the same juddering/jurking motion from the wheel

Can you please take a look at my topic here -> http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=33968

I really need some help

thanks, Ash

 

[eNkEi]

update...

i have baught a new controller on ebay from china. hopefuly this will fix my problem.

Ash

 

[Philistine]

Did you do what I suggested on the other thread and replace the phase wires? They might be intermittently shorting against each other if the phase wire sheathing has ben damaged when you spun the axle.

Other possibility is that often when you spin an axle you can blow a fet in your controller, and so when your new controller turns up, if the problem goes, it was that, if the problem remains, then I suggest your problem is within the phase wires, and I would replace them.

Best of luck.