A123 20ah pouch where abouts full tabs $

999zip999

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I build a battery using the bolt togethere method so a full tab with a aluimun block works good so far. Plus the aluimun block is great for space for a screw and sense wire home made with the Drutledge build. I play A.w. style Just don't know how to down load a pic. Plactic pipe clamps, Gutter rail from blinds the packing frame but just one of a kind. Oh shit no pics. ? ? I dod need some computer support. scared. Bye Can't express ?.
Edit: o.k. I cleaned it up.
 
What the frelling$%&*^frack was that zipman? Pics are easy these days and vital on this forum to share information. I'd love to see how you connect the AMP20's together. You not using Agniusm's kit? Get a digital camera (even an older model used off eBay would work great). What's the problem, huh? Oh, and most laptops come with webcams these days and come with some software widget to take a snapshot - even that. Best!!
 
Once you have a picture, you might need to make it small enough to publish. You can use windows paint, drag the pic into there, and use the tool to reduce size.

Then when typing a post, look below for upload attachment. browse for your picture file, then place in line, then submit.
 
or you can upload to googles picasa, photobucket etc. save space on ES servers and copy a link and paste in here using IMG (look above) like this:
[ img]http://endless-sphere.com/forums/styles/etech/imageset/site_logo.gif[/img],
which will result in this:
site_logo.gif


I think attachments are good for spec. sheets etc. You save a lot of time on editing pics to size and getting just the link here.
 
999zip is a good man , but there are many a time that his posts confuse me.

I am not sure if english is not his first language or he got his hands on some good stuff ?

Anyway I think were better off having him I just don't always get his meaning.
 
Just for info, server space is not an issue, and the board would prefer that pix are hosted on the ES server with the tools provided. The reason being that say 5 years from now, if you move on to other interests and close your picasa account, we loose the embedded pictures and knowledge going forward.
 
Speaking face to face is my first choice. As spelling and typing ?? Yes I have read my post and say WTF. is he thinking. Back to the question of full tabs on my next battery build. I think Victpower is only saleing half tabs at 16.50. Ohzee thanks for keeping me.
 
:)

I my friend have been there so I can relate.

I just recently grabbed 6 more full tabs from someone one the board who had done a previous purchase from vicpower.

So i somewhat got lucky , but I paid a bit of a premium for them.

Do those work just as well the shorter tabs in agniusm's kits ? So it may not even matter if your using them.
 
999zip999 said:
Speaking face to face is my first choice. As spelling and typing ?? Yes I have read my post and say WTF. is he thinking. Back to the question of full tabs on my next battery build. I think Victpower is only saleing half tabs at 16.50. Ohzee thanks for keeping me.
Barkmau and I have the most recent experience with Victpower.
  • Victpower is still one of the most reliable suppliers of the A123 AMP20 cells
  • At the bargain price of $16.50 USD per, you get what you get, including cells that may not hold a charge or do not have the specified 20ah capacity; as far as I'm concerned, its factored into the price
  • all the cells we got are short-tab, obviously salvage, carved out of some reclaim battery pack
  • no idea of what the history of those packs was; probably new, from the Fisker debacle; cells likely OK but not guaranteed
  • the short-tabs, some of which look like a "cheese grater" are just fine; the only thing that matters is will they carry current and they do; all depends on your method of putting cells into S-P configuration; with Agniusm's kit, they work great!
  • we got cells that had a paper label taped on that says "9000mah"; presuming it means what it says but don't have a clue; no info from Victpower or otherwise; again "no guarantee" and you gets what ya gets
  • if someone has a "better" supplier for the cells, e.g. closer to A123 spec for the cells, please let us know
 
I got 25 full tabs with the JR holmes group buy and 4 or 5 cells had the 9000mah white sticker. Someone said it was for customs or tarif tax. Out of the 25 I swap out one in my 24 today as it ran high 3.8v and all the rest 3.5v and shut down my 1420 with a high cell warning ? So swapped it out. this cell was on my rear rack on the bottom and my have bounce it around it taking the grount if the bounding. Plus I get 17.99 ah out of the pack at 30amps when tested twrice. So happy with them so far. The I.R. on the pack thru the 1420 is 17 ohm. I will reach with a new thread to ask how everybody's pack are holding up.
As with my used makita packs if a cell had a small problem it would only get worse over time.
 
Cell ran high? If it can hold that higher voltage under load it's a magic cell that needs investigating by someone. Imagine Lifepo4 going to 3.6 nominal. :shock:
 
John in CR said:
Cell ran high? If it can hold that higher voltage under load it's a magic cell that needs investigating by someone. Imagine Lifepo4 going to 3.6 nominal. :shock:
No, not unusual to see 3.7 to 3.9 volts after charge. They settle down to whatever the cells will hold, given time, charging and balance. My 12S pack will charge to 42 volts and then settle down to 39-40 volts.
 
arkmundi said:
[*]the short-tabs, some of which look like a "cheese grater" are just fine; the only thing that matters is will they carry current and they do; all depends on your method of putting cells into S-P configuration; with Agniusm's kit, they work great!

Are they really OK? I got a quote from Xin Wang, and she attached this image:
2-20AH.jpg

I don't know how thick the tabs are, but this looks like the tab is seriously compromised. I'm looking at putting these cells into a pack for a wheelchair. There's likely to be more vibration than on a bike, and the consequences of having a tab fatigue through and start getting hot.... well, I don't want anything bad to happen. Even with the performance and capacity for the price, I'm not sure if these cells are worth trying.

Any thoughts?
 
joec said:
I don't know how thick the tabs are, but this looks like the tab is seriously compromised. I'm looking at putting these cells into a pack for a wheelchair. There's likely to be more vibration than on a bike, and the consequences of having a tab fatigue through and start getting hot.... well, I don't want anything bad to happen. Even with the performance and capacity for the price, I'm not sure if these cells are worth trying. Any thoughts?
No, Xin attaches images so you see what you're getting. The tabs are not at all compromised. Reread what I and others have said - it depends on your method of connecting the tabs together. Either Agniusm's kit or something like it, engineered to hold the cells together with precision, making both a great connection and holding the cells together in a way that eliminates vibration impacts on the tabs.
 
Well, if the intention is to use them anywhere near their full potential - that looks like a fuse to me.
 
I am curious as to why those cells look like that one the one tab.

Id assume they were assembled into some kind of pack , but why just on one side id think you'd want the same contact on both ?

Also wonder if people concerned about the swiss cheese could wrap it with some type of thin metal to make up for that ?

If it was the only thing available and at less then 20 bux a cell id be willing to take that chance. So far I have not heard anything negative from
people who have built batteries with it.
 
I dont know why people still talking about these mangled cells. onspower sells usa made full tab cells for 28.

EDIT. Think of how much current can pass through that tab. No good i would say.
Another thing i would suggest, that you'd buy cells in groups of 2-3 people relatively close to each other. This way you would save half or more on high shipping.
 
agniusm said:
I dont know why people still talking about these mangled cells. onspower sells usa made full tab cells for 28.

EDIT. Think of how much current can pass through that tab. No good i would say.
Another thing i would suggest, that you'd buy cells in groups of 2-3 people relatively close to each other. This way you would save half or more on high shipping.

I can only speak for myself, but I've been away from EV stuff for a while, and just got back to this kind of project, so I am trying to get a grip on what the best tech and best source is. I haven't been on the forum in months, so I am still catching up on a lot of threads to get oriented. I thought I was on to something with victpower, but I'm hearing from you that there may be better sources.

So are the A123 Amp 20 pouches still the way to go? I don't want to do LiPoly since this will potentially go into a wheelchair loaded onto a commercial airliner.
 
My goal is to have 8s and at least 40AH- the wheelchair controller can draw up to 250 amps for fraction of a second, but scales back demand if the voltage drops below about 18V. The system also shuts down with an overvoltage error if the battery voltage exceeds about 30 to 31 volts.

Would a prebuilt pack reliably have less than 20ish milliohms resistance for eight series? It's possible for me to use a motor controller that cares less about voltage sag, but it sure would be nice to keep using the same model- the athletes are used to it, and I already know its quirks.

Right now I'm using 68AH Odyssey AGM batteries, and they work reasonably well- enough capacity, low enough resistance, good ability to charge at 20 amps, plus they're safe and approved for air travel. They just weigh 100 pounds for the pair. I know I can get better acceleration with lithium.
 
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