Accelerated Systems BAC500

[d3drturner]

Accelerated Systems BAC500
running SYXD01F Bafang front wheel drive
with Thun X-Cell RT Digital 120k/116mm
and 12S 2P battery that shows 49volts having some proprietary BMS
and a 3 setting switch with off, low, high that has an "e-ink" display that does not appear to work

With the battery plugged in, the controller lights up as normal but the motor is not activated.

I have the BAC software called BacDoor but I can't find the RxTx lines nor do I know how the diagnostic cable is constructed.



And I created a problem while removing the torque sensor; the wires that were spliced together to the connector came apart; the colors are mostly different so it's not clear how they should be reattached (the connector wires are RGBYBlack; sensor wires are Black White Grey Brown Blue):



I hate to scrap the system and replace it all with vesc but I am at a dead end.
Any ideas?

 

[amberwolf]

I would first recommend looking up the torque sensor's wiring diagram. If it doens't show wire colors, that might not help, but if it does, it tells you waht voltage or signal goes on each wire.

Then look up the controller's wiring diagram. It may not be on ASI's site, because they don't really support end users, but it is probably here on ES or on other websites. That will let you find out which pins the detached wiring harness went to by using a multimeter on ohms or continuity to test from wire to connector pin at the controller end.

Having those two pieces of info may directly let you connect the detached wiring. But even if it doesn't, posting what find about them here may let one of us "translate" the terms they give into a connection list.

Ebikes.ca has a manual for the THUN they sold here https://ebikes.ca/amfile/file/download/file/175/product/23/ and it has a wiring diagram in it on page 4; I don't know if it applies to yours or not.

I havne't looked at any of the results but this is one possible search for the controller info

Google Search

 

[ZeroEm]

Accelerated Systems BAC500
running SYXD01F Bafang front wheel drive
with Thun X-Cell RT Digital 120k/116mm
and 12S 2P battery that shows 49volts having some proprietary BMS
and a 3 setting switch with off, low, high that has an "e-ink" display that does not appear to work

With the battery plugged in, the controller lights up as normal but the motor is not activated.

I have the BAC software called BacDoor but I can't find the RxTx lines nor do I know how the diagnostic cable is constructed.

View attachment 382074

And I created a problem while removing the torque sensor; the wires that were spliced together to the connector came apart; the colors are mostly different so it's not clear how they should be reattached (the connector wires are RGBYBlack; sensor wires are Black White Grey Brown Blue):

View attachment 382075

I hate to scrap the system and replace it all with vesc but I am at a dead end.
Any ideas?

They don't like people messing with their controllers. Thought Grin was selling the BAC500. Send them a message.

 

[d3drturner]

Thanks, I've looked at https://www.ebikes.ca/downloads/BAC500_Controller_Manual_Rev 1.0.pdf which has

yellow power
black ground
grey torque
brown cos
green sin

the connector has:
yellow black red green blue

the sensor has:
white power
black ground
grey torque
blue cos
brown sin

with black as ground
white to yellow is 6.46 V
grey to red is 2.47 V
blue to blue is 4.97
brown to green is nothing

 

[d3drturner]

has this middle board which complicates all the connections


I tapped into some 5v and 3.3v pads to try to get some activity going to ASI software to no avail; it is either checksum or timeout errors

 

[neptronix]

So far i've seen people who buy a BAC controller mostly fail to program it.
As far as i understand, the programming interface is locked out to the end user unless you are a dealer.

Good luck - if you don't succeed then i'd consider a Phaserunner because it has good compatibility with torque sensors whereas with a VESC, you need aftermarket code on top that may or may not work for your particular model.

 

[amberwolf]

Is the "middle board" part of the controller? Or is it a separate board from the manufacturer of the bike / system?

If the former, then it's connections will match whatever documentation you find for hte controller itself. If they don't, then it isn't part of the controller, though it could be some other board built by ASI that they would have documentation for.

If it is a custom "bike management" board made for or by the bike manufacturer, then without knowing what it is designed to do, or a wiring diagram for it, it will take measurements and experimentation to find out what's what about it.

Experimentation with wiring always has the chance of damaging or destroying the device(s) being experimented with.

 

[d3drturner]

Middle board is separate board used in Faraday bicycles. I could not find any wiring diagrams. It has wiring to/from everything: battery display, selector, power switch, battery, charging port, torque sensor and lights.
Not worried about damaging it; it currently does nothing useful.

 

[PaulD]

There may be some useful info here: Open Sourcing Faraday Hardware: Dane Kouttron
The Faraday I worked on didn't have a splice in the torque sensor cable, so I can't help there. Perhaps yours was retrofitted with a different sensor than stock?
The connector for the mode selector has reliability problems. When I pulled mine apart, and replugged it with some dielectric grease, the e-ink display started working properly, although not all of the modes work. There were a few people on the Faraday facebook group that had pinched wires from the seat tube insert that affected the mode selector.

There are so many glitchy parts on these bikes, that I would be tempted to completely gut it and install a VESC and external battery, and be done with it. I went the opposite route when I bought a Cortland with dead pack and assembled this battery: GitHub - nhallsny/faraday-rescue: Open source battery for e-bikes made by the now-defunct Faraday Bicycles which took a ton of time. The engineer that designed it put a lot of work into making a pack that fit into the existing space in the DT, but honestly, not sure if it's worth it.

 

[d3drturner]

There may be some useful info here: Open Sourcing Faraday Hardware: Dane Kouttron
The Faraday I worked on didn't have a splice in the torque sensor cable, so I can't help there. Perhaps yours was retrofitted with a different sensor than stock?
The connector for the mode selector has reliability problems. When I pulled mine apart, and replugged it with some dielectric grease, the e-ink display started working properly, although not all of the modes work. There were a few people on the Faraday facebook group that had pinched wires from the seat tube insert that affected the mode selector.

There are so many glitchy parts on these bikes, that I would be tempted to completely gut it and install a VESC and external battery, and be done with it. I went the opposite route when I bought a Cortland with dead pack and assembled this battery: GitHub - nhallsny/faraday-rescue: Open source battery for e-bikes made by the now-defunct Faraday Bicycles which took a ton of time. The engineer that designed it put a lot of work into making a pack that fit into the existing space in the DT, but honestly, not sure if it's worth it.

I've extracted all the wires and even disassembled and reassembled the selector. I tested 10, -1.87, 11.87, 1.5 and 1.6 (depending on which of the 4 wires is used as com) on the connectors to the selector.

Wow PaulD, that is a nice detail on constructing a new battery. I non-destructively disassembled my battery using some surgical Dremel operations and tested 22 of 24 cells (could not get the leads on 2 of them because of the way it was assembled)

Interestingly, the battery seems fine and is still at 47 V after a month and a half of testing.

I didn't get any useful info from Dane's site. Seems he made an XLR connector and assembled the existing documents, which, while somewhat helpful, does not include any controller or middle board schematics (does include some misdirected info about Bafang controllers and a link to some other BAC controllers).

My understanding is that the Porteur could come with two or three different torque sensors, the Thun and others. Not sure why mine was spliced but it matches with the Thun used by Faraday.

Currently thinking about using the battery and torque sensor (if good) I have with the flipsky and a bafang display as Stancecoke outlines here:

VESC - Flipsky 75100 V2 with Bafang Display and T15/T17 BB-Torque Sensor

The Flipsky 75100 is available at a very reasonable price and in a pedelec-compatible housing. However, the VESC is hardly suitable for e-bikes due to the lack of display and torque sensor support. This has challenged my tinkering instinct ;) Luna Cycle has already implemented the Bafang...

endless-sphere.com

(waiting on parts to construct the torque sensor emulator so I can test the rest of the current system)

He appears to be accommodate a torque sensor, although will have to learn how the cosine and sine of the Thun translates to speed sensor.

Also, I will need some way to activate the battery, which, once activated appears to stay on with the comms cable unplugged (not sure for how long, may timeout, may need to resend activate signal) .

 

[d3drturner]

So far i've seen people who buy a BAC controller mostly fail to program it.
As far as i understand, the programming interface is locked out to the end user unless you are a dealer.

Good luck - if you don't succeed then i'd consider a Phaserunner because it has good compatibility with torque sensors whereas with a VESC, you need aftermarket code on top that may or may not work for your particular model.

Not trying to program the BAC controller, was trying to connect it to bacdoor to see if it would show a helpful error log like "selector fault" but have not got past checksum errors:



my connection efforts are suspect using arduino due as passthrough:



best I have been able to do is get a loop on Tx: