Advice for upgrade controller/ LCD

[jojomako47]

Hello everyone, I'm new here, so 1st. I hope I'm doing this right & right place. Anyways I had a " MXUS 3K TURBO , 72v 80a. Stock/ was a kit, absolutely love it, !! Well the hall sensors went out on it, so I tossed it & bought a new motor that arrived yesterday" NB POWER, 72V 3000W. WELL long story but I need a new LCD/ CONTROLLER/THROTTLE, & WHY NOT NOW, UPGRADE the CONTROLLER right? Now when it comes to electricity, I'm so lost and confused I just hook it up and go. (" CAN ANYONE PLEASE TELL ME A GOOD UPGRADE CONTROLLER (4SPEED) FOR MY NB POWER 72V 3000W HUB MOTOR?? THANKS IN ADVANCE

 

[calab]

How much money do you want to spend?
What other features do you require?
Is there a size requirement for the controller?
Some controllers are harder to setup then others.


72v 80a is a lot of power.

 

[amberwolf]

What current does your battery support? Meaning, what are it's specifications; it's max continuous current (A, not Ah)?

If it can't output at least 80A, you don't want to get a controller that can draw that much--it would have to be less than what the battery could support.

 

[jojomako47]

What current does your battery support? Meaning, what are it's specifications; it's max continuous current (A, not Ah)?

If it can't output at least 80A, you don't want to get a controller that can draw that much--it would have to be less than what the battery could support.

80a on the battery, " now please tell me why you don't want the controller to match the battery? Because that's how I've been running the last motor

 

[jojomako47]

How much money do you want to spend?
What other features do you require?
Is there a size requirement for the controller?
Some controllers are harder to setup then others.


72v 80a is a lot of power.

Few hundred I guess, features?? What do you mean?size requirement? Set up? Yeah no, I can't do anything like that, plug and go! & I want more power! My last bike was a CANNONDALE with MXUS 3K TURBO KIT, 80A AND on a nice day almost 57-58mph, I want more, there's nothing better than that ride, I've had dirtbikes , motorcycles, but nothing like an electric bike, I put it on #5 and hit it , it pulls my neck back and instantly flying, luv it

 

[amberwolf]

80a on the battery, " now please tell me why you don't want the controller to match the battery? Because that's how I've been running the last motor

I don't understand your bolded statement.

That is the opposite of the intent of the questions.

As stated previously, If the battery cannot ouptut at least 80A, you don't want to get a controller that can draw that much.

If you get a controller that can draw less than the battery can supply, then the battery will be less stressed and will still be able to supply the controller with full current even as the battery ages (as they age, they are less and less capable).

If you prefer to use an 80A controller with an 80A battery, that would be fine, as long as the battery is still able to do it. When you begin to notice less "oomph" in the acceleration, and see more voltage sag under those kinds of loads, then it might be good to turn the controller's current down if it's programmable.



That said...why is it you need a new controller, if your old one matched the battery/etc, and still works?

If you want more power (watts) as your last post says, well, you can't get that without using higher current from the battery, or higher voltage, or both. Watts is Volts x Amps. You can't get more W without increasing either V or A or both.

If you're already at 80A with the last controller and that's at the max of the battery limit, then you can't use a higher current controller, or else you also have to replace the battery with one capable of supporting the new controller's current demands.

You can't use a higher voltage system without replacing hte battery with a higher voltage battery (that can also supply the current needed).


Note about "more power" and "more speed": If you want more speed than ~60mph, you're going to need significantly more power than you had before. You probably also need more voltage, since roughly more volts spins the motor faster, though it still takes more watts for overcoming the air resistance at the higher speed (and the faster you go, the more resistance, more and more for smaller increases in speed).

If you want quicker acceleration (at all speeds, not just startup), you'll need to setup the system to be capable of faster speeds than you will actually use, so that it still has acceleration torque available when you are at your max actually used speed.

You may need a new motor as well, to handle the higher power required for the faster speeds and accelerations, and/or wound for a higher speed (RPM/volt, kV).


You can see how these interactions work by using the simulator at ebikes.ca, after some experimentation and learning, and reading the instructions for it on it's page.

It's probably going to be fairly expensive to do what you want, especially for a good battery (since most of them are cheap crap that can't do what they say they can do, and some of them are even fire hazards).




BTW, most bicycles aren't physically designed for the speeds you want, so keep in mind the limitations of the bike itself, and the brakes, suspension, wheels, tires, etc.--it would suck to be going that fast and have something fail to work as needed.

 

[jojomako47]

I would like to thank you, electric/electricity is literally a foreign language to me, that I can't seem to understand! If it was a 2stroke , that's all I know! Anyways, I actually understand what your telling me! Ok, my hall-sensors went bad in last wheel (MXUS-3K TURBO ) So I tossed it & called the guy (in China )that i bought the kit from, and told him i just needed a new wheel, ( amazon-$500 - $700) i payed $396 delivered, " BUT" he screwed me!! He didn't tell me that he no longer sells " MXUS-3K" he now works for " NB POWER" both are absolutely great wheels/motors, in my opinion. But my MXUS controller & LCD does not work on my new "NBPOWER" wheel. They want $200 for the controller,LCD, THROTTLE delivered that goes with the wheel in the kit. Witch I think I may just buy, since I'm finding out that some u have to program, & I won't be able to do! Yes batteries are way crazy expensive ( to me) I want a 45-50ah battery but can't afford $2000+ for it !!! I payed $800+ for a 20ah & it's no where enough for me! I'm speed freak, so 15-20mins my battery is almost done!! & yes sir I'm completely aware that bicycles aren't made to go that fast or that long,

 

[amberwolf]

! He didn't tell me that he no longer sells " MXUS-3K" he now works for " NB POWER" both are absolutely great wheels/motors, in my opinion. But my MXUS controller & LCD does not work on my new "NBPOWER" wheel.

What specifically does it do or not do that it shouldn't or should?


There's no reason I can think of that the old controller shouldn't work with the new motor, These things are relatively universal in function, if not in connectors/wiring.

(unless perhaps the reason the hall sensors didn't work in the old motor is because the controller couldn't read them (not that they were actually bad), or that the sensors failed from a short in the wiring that also damaged the controller, etc. or that the controller's 5v failed and so it couldn't power the halls or it's own brain chip, etc. )


You may have to manually figure out the correct phase and hall wiring combination (there are lots of posts and threads here on how to do that, and even articles on other websites), or use the self-learn function of the controller to do this automagically. If it has one--sometimes this is done via a specific pair of wires just for this, and sometimes it is only in the setup program or app for the controller. (some of them use a specific serial-usb cable to a computer, and a program from the controller manufacturer, and some use a bluetooth dongle and app from the controller manufacturer on your phone. )


No matter what controller you get, you're probably going to have to do that.

When you replace the controller, you will *also* have to figure out which wires in which connector go to each of the other things on your bike, like throttle, brake levers, etc.

If you have a display, you'll almost certainly have to replace it with the one that comes with the new controller (if there isn't one, you probably can't use one with it, or have to get the matching one from the same seller).

 

[jojomako47]

What specifically does it do or not do that it shouldn't or should?


There's no reason I can think of that the old controller shouldn't work with the new motor, These things are relatively universal in function, if not in connectors/wiring.

(unless perhaps the reason the hall sensors didn't work in the old motor is because the controller couldn't read them (not that they were actually bad), or that the sensors failed from a short in the wiring that also damaged the controller, etc. or that the controller's 5v failed and so it couldn't power the halls or it's own brain chip, etc. )


You may have to manually figure out the correct phase and hall wiring combination (there are lots of posts and threads here on how to do that, and even articles on other websites), or use the self-learn function of the controller to do this automagically. If it has one--sometimes this is done via a specific pair of wires just for this, and sometimes it is only in the setup program or app for the controller. (some of them use a specific serial-usb cable to a computer, and a program from the controller manufacturer, and some use a bluetooth dongle and app from the controller manufacturer on your phone. )


No matter what controller you get, you're probably going to have to do that.

When you replace the controller, you will *also* have to figure out which wires in which connector go to each of the other things on your bike, like throttle, brake levers, etc.

If you have a display, you'll almost certainly have to replace it with the one that comes with the new controller (if there isn't one, you probably can't use one with it, or have to get the matching one from the same seller).

Ok, you asked, what does it not do,,, (" GO ") as soon as I turn it on the LCD say ("CONTROLLER PROTECT ") ERROR 10H. So I googled it and it says that the controller is unable to read the motor or something like that. The so many videos on how to fix, every video says to put a jumper between the red & blue wire& that would fix it, BUT IT DIDN'T!!. & I was actually thinking the same thing, that something was/might be wrong with the controller/LCD. Because,, ok this is my 2nd build, my very 1st.bike I bought this kit & battery (" MXUS 3K TURBO 80A") I went out and bought a brand new $700 "GT" bike that I liked and was stoked, ( now I've built/raced motorized bicycles down south ( Fort Lauderdale, Miami) for years!! But kept getting into trouble riding them, so I said I'd try these electric bikes out. I think it took me almost 3 days to build this bike, it was so sharp looking & I was so proud of it, time to test ride it, ( I have NEVER ridden an electric bike at this point, didn't know what to expect!!") Open the garage, I'm sitting on the bike in my driveway,I turn it on & I'm looking at the screen, and I say #3 is a good #to start with, I smile at my wife and swist the throttle, and ( WTF ) I didn't move an inch, BUT the back wheel did, it literally snapped/broke off the back of the bike & was now up in front of the front wheel I, couldn't talk for a few mins , I'm standing there trying to understand how all this $ just went down the drain in 1.2 seconds & I haven't even moved from the same spot.well ( TORQUE ARMS) i said to myself when putting together, " REALLY"?? on a electric bike, come on!! & didn't put them on!! Well my brand new bike was completed ruined, , needed a new frame ( used one this time)!! Now when it did that it messed up the hall sensors!! Well there is 2 plugs on the wheel, so I try the other plug, and it worked. But even then the bike would ( completely shut off & die at 86% battery power. The LCD SCREEN WOULD SAY COMMUNICATE ERROR, the power off & wouldn't turn back on untill you hooked up the charger and plugged it in. . People told me I had a bad battery, a bad controller, never really did find out! Well I spoke with NB POWER, & they said. That for $200 I can get the controller/throttle/LCD that goes with this wheel (72v 3000w 80a), I think that's what I'm going to do because ur not the 1st. Person to say that I would have to program these controllers, well Sir, I can't do it, when it comes to electricity, my brain just doesn't comprehend, it.

 

[nicobie]

If you still have the old motor I would try changing out the hall sensors and see what happens. They are simple to change and only cost pennies. What you are talking about could be the controller or many other things too. Don't get overwhelmed it is usually simple things that cause failures.

Good luck and try to be patient.

 

[amberwolf]

Ok, you asked, what does it not do,,, (" GO ") as soon as I turn it on the LCD say ("CONTROLLER PROTECT ") ERROR 10H. So I googled it and it says that the controller is unable to read the motor or something like that.

Error 10 can mean a number of different problems depending on your specific controller, so you'd need to be getting the info from the manual for your specific controller. Some systems use it for failure to communicate with the display, some as an overtemperature problem, etc. I didn't see one in a quick google that meant the controller couldn't read the motor, so if you can link to that page we can see if it is relevant to your system.

The so many videos on how to fix, every video says to put a jumper between the red & blue wire& that would fix it, BUT IT DIDN'T!!.

*Which* red and blue wire, on *which connector*?

There will be at least four red wires on most controllers, one of which is your battery positive, the rest of which are usually 5v for various devices.

There will be at least one blue wire, often two or three or more, most of which cannot take battery positive, so hooking those together could destroy the controller.

Other combinations of connections wouldn't produce any useful result; I don't know which one they intend to have it work.

Which specific combination were they recommending, and which specific combination did you actually connect?

But kept getting into trouble riding them, so I said I'd try these electric bikes out.

FWIW, if the "trouble" is of the legal variety, then unless that was because the actual vehicle was not legal, rather than a behavioral thing, then changing to ebikes wouldn't change the problem.

and swist the throttle, and ( WTF ) I didn't move an inch, BUT the back wheel did, it literally snapped/broke off the back of the bike & was now up in front of the front wheel

That can happen without well-fitting torque arms. It's a common problem with first DIY ebikes. I highly recommend checking out The Torque Arm Picture Thread and other torque-arm posts around the forum before trying out the system, to make sure it's all installed correctly, and fits properly, and if it does not to either fix them or make new ones, or get the v7 torque arms from ebikes.ca.

The LCD SCREEN WOULD SAY COMMUNICATE ERROR,

Comm error (often with a number "30", but not always) usually means that the display can't talk to the controller. When a wheel spins out it often rips up the wiring and shorts battery-level voltage phase signals to low voltage hall signals and this often damages or destroys the controller.

That for $200 I can get the controller/throttle/LCD that goes with this wheel (72v 3000w 80a), I think that's what I'm going to do because ur not the 1st. Person to say that I would have to program these controllers, well Sir, I can't do it, when it comes to electricity, my brain just doesn't comprehend, it.

FWIW, you may still have to go thru the LCD menus to make sure all the settings are correct for your system, even if it's not an FOC controller that requires setup by a computer or phone app. The controller manual from the manufacturer will show how to do this; we can help with what settings to pick if you do need to change something, but the manual is usually needed to define which things are what in the menus that don't always have names (just parameter numbers).