Alizeti 300C Hack x 4 or more

Joined
Aug 27, 2021
Messages
153
Location
Toronto, Ontario
I've been slowly working on how to hack Alizeti 300Cdrive systems to salvage some of the parts now that the manufacturer has gone bankrupt (apparently)

I was able to purchase 5 drive units with the motor, control boards, rear rack and the battery holder extrusion. No system controllers or batteries are available. No system controllers means that with internal boards are likely difficult to hack and use.

But I will be building batteries to fit inside the extrusions. I should be able to fit 8s8p...

I disassembled one unit to examine everything and ascertain that yes as expected I can raise and lower the drive wheel with the application of 12v so we are good there. The drive motor is non-sensored, the cheapskates.

Also no pedal sensors either.

Let's see how inexpensively I can get 4 bikes on the road... and finally give my cannondale H600 a conversion that does not risk breaking my precious.

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Anyone know how well bluetooth signals from smart BMS units penetrate aluminum extrusions? They should go at least 2 meters I hope. I also hope they make a smart bms that I can fit in this case

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If anyone bought one of these systems and ever needs parts, well hit me up since I wont be using any of these boards.
 
I must say that I am impressed with how well Alizeti engineered and built their system. It was sealed up tighter than a drum.

The worm screw to raise and lower the drive arm is one nice part I am pleased I shall be able to keep it. That feature alone may save me the grief of my wife's protests that she did not want her bike converted.

I'm thinking of using a separate 12v battery pack for lights, usb charging port, and to power the drive arm up and down on command.

I can toss a baserunner, CA3 and PAS sensor on these for about $525 a bike. I can use a cheaper motor controller without virtual freewheeling and have one running for under $200 CAD.

These units cost me $30 each plus shipping. I am debating buying 4 or 5 more just for the motors and the extra drive wheels.
 
I got my 3D printer and ran a couple basic parts on it, and now I am printing a test insert in the shape of the aluminum battery extrusion. If necessary I will tweak my extrusion profile before making the battery pack separator pieces.

The one real complaint I have with the alizeti friction drive is that it appears they used bushings instead of bearings for the drive axle. I have to check and see at some point, but I am in battery pack mode right now.

That means I am also working on my die press designs to dimple copper plate that will be the battery contactors.
 
I have the 3D printed parts for the battery modules dialed in. Now it is just a matter of printing 40 end plates and 20 cell spacers for the 5 ebike conversion kits I have.

The modules and batteries will be compressed together with copper plates on the ends of each module tying cells together in 8P groups with two groups per module for 6 cells per module.

I need to go pick up more cells obviously.

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There will be FG or aluminum end compression plates behind the PLA plates. The PLA plates are just acting as insulators and cell spacers.

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Are those holes down the middle for compression screws? What will your be using?
 
99t4 said:
Are those holes down the middle for compression screws? What will your be using?

Yes the 7 holes are for threaded rods that will be used to compress the battery to ensure good electrical contact. 4mm threaded rod and aluminum plates
 
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