Another lame “Ebike newbie” posting

Wow, that's crazy cheap for the battery. Hope it turns out ok, but so many have gotten bad deals on an ebay battery that was too cheap to be true.

If you saw a picture with a v power hong kong label, ru ro. I'm going to assume shipping that cheap will be by boat, so you'll see it about June 1.
 
They must have had a container plopped in CA, because my battery shipping is domestic. I am an electronics guy--more than mechanics guy--with the typical bench instruments. How would you recommend verifying the battery performance, at least comparing the two against each other, ideally without cracking sealed packs?

Chas
 
Well that's a plus! I assumed that price was straight from china. FWIW, most of the v power batteries do work. They just have had a long reputation for delivering less capacity than they should.

Not a good battery to treat rough, so don't drop it, or let it rattle around in a bag or box much. If a complete dud, you have a possibility of returning it to a USA address affordably. Also, much less chance of it getting wrecked in the shipping if it travels less time.
 
PROGRESS: Clairmont Schwinn cruiser bike received, as well as two Vpower 48V 15Ah packs w/chargers. Wife has decided to hang with an existing Schwinn Midtown full suspension comfort bike (in VGC.)

The cruiser is really jazzy. It was delivered three days after online ordering (as were the batteries!), and went together easily. The only problem is that the rear tube won't hold air--which of course I can give a flip about, since I am going to swap it out.

I unscrewed the lid on the batteries and peeked. Oppenheimer called the first a-bomb at Trinity NM the "Scotch Tape bomb" because they used so much tape trying the get the heavy wedges to hang together in a sphere. Here I have two Duct Tape bombs, with the battery controller taped on the side of course. I get no sense of what is under the tape, flat packs, cylinders, or what. The tape is just box shaped. They are well-fitted with some padding into cream-colored hard plastic cases with black laminate exteriors, and with metal inserts for screws. They arrived extremely well packed, double boxed, and with two inches of closed cell foam all around.

I connected the chargers, and they both charged for 5 minutes and dropped into green-light standby. I left the chargers connected over night. The house didn't burn down. Then I got my handy Triplett analog meter, and found 52V on each battery, and 55V output on each charger, so everything is equally healthy or equally sick. I didn't think to drop my range to 60v, and on the 300v range my readings are about +/- 0.5V.

The canvas bags are oversized (likely one-size-fits-all to 25Ah) and seem quite stout to me. The extra room is perfect for padding. I wish I had better theft protection than four Velcro straps, gotta think about that.

Shipping tracker says hub wheels will arrive this week, and then the rubber meets the road. If you live anywhere near Dayton, OH, expect hard rain for the next two weeks (new telescope tradition.)

Chas
 
Pictures please? It would really be useful to see the build. Not to criticize but to understand how they build and if it really is a good value. Helpful to if you ever need help solving a problem in the future.

Thanks,

T
 
chasindayton said:
Then I got my handy Triplett analog meter, and found 52V on each battery, and 55V output on each charger, so everything is equally healthy or equally sick. I didn't think to drop my range to 60v, and on the 300v range my readings are about +/- 0.5V.



Chas
I'm learning that taking them to less than full charge extends the life significantly. I got a pretty good feel for how long my battery takes to charge and was usually able to interrupt the charge, confirm V with my multimeter, and run at 80-90%. 80-90% has universal agreement as to extending battery life. That and keeping them cool.
 
Dang Tom, I just put the tools away. I'll see if I can't get back into one for some photos tomorrow.

Regards charge, I always assumed you don't want to draw from a battery still hot from charging, or charge a battery still hot from running. I never heard anything about undercharging, is there a link I can read up from?

Thanks--Chas
 
chasindayton said:
Dang Tom, I just put the tools away. I'll see if I can't get back into one for some photos tomorrow.

Regards charge, I always assumed you don't want to draw from a battery still hot from charging, or charge a battery still hot from running. I never heard anything about undercharging, is there a link I can read up from?

Thanks--Chas


http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries
 
VPOWER 48v 15Ah PHOTOS

Note upside down switch assy. Screw holes not quite symmetrical (of course) so my corrected pack switch assy. isn't quite lined up now.

Internal battery pack 8-3/8" long, 5-3/8" wide, and 2-5/8" deep.

I don't care to perform any further disassembly without good cause.

Comments?
 

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Great, thanks!
 
MORE QUESTIONS: In the event anybody is still watching this thread, here are a few questions:

The provided chargers are Vpower "Li-ion Battery Chargers," model PWY13S06 "for 13S Li-ion battery pack," output 54.6V, 6A max. "LPS 1+ 2-" whatever that means. The amber LED turns green, and the fan cuts off, when charging is complete.

1. What do the voltage measurements, dimensions and photos say about my "lithium ion" batteries? Any idea of chemistry, cell type, construction, etc?

2. Battery maintenance:
A.: Between the few rides a month, does it hurt to keep the charger plugged in?
B.: What about over the winter?
C.: I successfully keep NiCad tools topped off by putting their chargers on a lamp timer for 30 minutes service a day. Does anyone know what this would do to my Li-Ion systems?

I expected at least A. and B. to be addressed in the battery tech threads, but I failed to find those answers.

Again, thanks! With luck we will be riding this weekend.
 
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries



Most of your answers are here. Please do yourself a favor and give it a read. It'll save you money and headaches. It will also help you formulate questions with a better understanding.

Charge to 80% whenever you can.

Heat is an enemy cool is good.

Storage should be in a cool space at 50%

I haven't learned enough to ID your battery type and chemistry. Hopefully Dogman Dan or some such friend to us n00bs will address that. He prolly forgot more about types over the years than I know.
 
Try to find a bicycle triangle bag to mount the battery in the triangle of the frame for proper ballance. Putting weight on the rack can destabilize the bike. And over time pull the rack lugs out of the frame so the rack can no longer attach to the frame.

BTW I am over 7000 miles on my Yescomusa motor and it has been rock solid.

:D
 
YESCOM FIT PROBLEM

Anybody dealt with this? Frame (brown) is slightly cantilevered to mount the shifter, and the elbow of the cantilever obstructs the axle nut.

Also, there is a large washer that rests on an inner shoulder (at center of gear, not shown) of the axle, if that's where it goes (it must). The keyed washer is shown moved to the inside of the frame, trying to make room for the nut....
 
Hadn't seen that one myself yet. On all my bikes, the offset is either built into the derailleur itself, or it's farther from the nut.

The item you need is a c washer, or grind down one of the that came with your kit, enough to clear that obstruction. You MUST get that nut to press flat on the frame, or it will work loose..

One source of a c washer. http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/ebike-parts/motor-parts.html

Another http://www.ebikekit.com/kit-components/small-parts/c-washers/

The main thing is, you need the washer to not have much on one side, so it can get that nut further down the axle, where it will clear the derailleur arm. Cut enough off a washer, so you don't have a crooked washer under that nut.
 
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