warrah
100 W
New bike, bigger and better.
here is a link to the last ebike i registered for legal road use:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=42887&p=627569&hilit=+30mph+road+legal#p627569
Anyway, that ones for sale now if anyone is interested in going 30mph in the UK on an ebike with no paranoia.
So the new bike has a cromotor, a 72v 20ah battery, and a 50a controller. It is also a tandem... you can see the second bottom bracket minus pedals in the picture. A sturdy rear seat has yet to be welded, so no second person yet.
Some things i learnt on this build:
Diminishing returns with extra motor and extra batteries, because ultimately its extra weight. This is mostly felt in the bikes range.
Hayes 9" rotors are useful for the cromotor, if the cromotors 150mm axle spacing requirement is giving you a headache. If you remove the cromotors disc brake adapter (a fat piece of metal designed to convert the cromotors electric scooter rotor bolt pattern to a bicycle rotor bolt pattern) then you wont need to stretch your dropouts so far, but then there isnt enough space between the rotor and the motor for the caliper. The hayes 9" rotors are large enough to clear the widest point on the casing, giving the caliper enough room. You just have to drill or file some new holes on the 9" rotors to fit the old electric scooter rotor bolt pattern. I have also tried to track down scooter rotors with this pattern... no luck though... weird.
Nobody seems to have addressed this yet, but lacing a cromotor into a motorcycle rim is not as simple as just getting a cromotor, some spokes, and a motorcycle rim, and lacing it up. No motorcycle rims have the spoke holes drilled at the right angle to accommodate a fat hub motor. Radial spoke patterns dont have enough strength for frequent riding. They might work for a while, but i need an MOT every year to check that the rim is aligned, over 2mm of wobble and its a fail. Radial doesnt cut it. The solution i went for was not a solution at all... force the spokes in, so that they are bending alittle. The only other option is to have a motorcycle rim freshly drilled with the right angles to accommodate the cromotor, which is muchos deniro. If anyone has made the cromotor/motorcycle rim thing work, let me know.
Use nyloc nuts or loctite on everything! Anyone else noticed this? nuts seem to work their way loose over the course of a few rides.
The last bike used a nine continent. This bike uses a cromotor. The upgrade was motivated by worries about the amount of heat the nine continent was generating. There are steep hills all over the place where i am, and the thought that i had to baby my nine continent did not make for a stress free ride. The cromotor, on the other hand, is impossible to heat up with the range of amps im using (40-50a at 72v) Even drawing all 4kw and crawling up steep hills and dismounting at the top (not advised, hub motors should have some time spinning at their optimum, to cool down after a long crawl up a hill), the cromotor does not get warm. Its eerie.
more info to come.
here is a link to the last ebike i registered for legal road use:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=42887&p=627569&hilit=+30mph+road+legal#p627569
Anyway, that ones for sale now if anyone is interested in going 30mph in the UK on an ebike with no paranoia.
So the new bike has a cromotor, a 72v 20ah battery, and a 50a controller. It is also a tandem... you can see the second bottom bracket minus pedals in the picture. A sturdy rear seat has yet to be welded, so no second person yet.
Some things i learnt on this build:
Diminishing returns with extra motor and extra batteries, because ultimately its extra weight. This is mostly felt in the bikes range.
Hayes 9" rotors are useful for the cromotor, if the cromotors 150mm axle spacing requirement is giving you a headache. If you remove the cromotors disc brake adapter (a fat piece of metal designed to convert the cromotors electric scooter rotor bolt pattern to a bicycle rotor bolt pattern) then you wont need to stretch your dropouts so far, but then there isnt enough space between the rotor and the motor for the caliper. The hayes 9" rotors are large enough to clear the widest point on the casing, giving the caliper enough room. You just have to drill or file some new holes on the 9" rotors to fit the old electric scooter rotor bolt pattern. I have also tried to track down scooter rotors with this pattern... no luck though... weird.
Nobody seems to have addressed this yet, but lacing a cromotor into a motorcycle rim is not as simple as just getting a cromotor, some spokes, and a motorcycle rim, and lacing it up. No motorcycle rims have the spoke holes drilled at the right angle to accommodate a fat hub motor. Radial spoke patterns dont have enough strength for frequent riding. They might work for a while, but i need an MOT every year to check that the rim is aligned, over 2mm of wobble and its a fail. Radial doesnt cut it. The solution i went for was not a solution at all... force the spokes in, so that they are bending alittle. The only other option is to have a motorcycle rim freshly drilled with the right angles to accommodate the cromotor, which is muchos deniro. If anyone has made the cromotor/motorcycle rim thing work, let me know.
Use nyloc nuts or loctite on everything! Anyone else noticed this? nuts seem to work their way loose over the course of a few rides.
The last bike used a nine continent. This bike uses a cromotor. The upgrade was motivated by worries about the amount of heat the nine continent was generating. There are steep hills all over the place where i am, and the thought that i had to baby my nine continent did not make for a stress free ride. The cromotor, on the other hand, is impossible to heat up with the range of amps im using (40-50a at 72v) Even drawing all 4kw and crawling up steep hills and dismounting at the top (not advised, hub motors should have some time spinning at their optimum, to cool down after a long crawl up a hill), the cromotor does not get warm. Its eerie.
more info to come.
