Any tips on making connectors easy to connect/disconnect

[Offroader]

I use these HXT 6mm connectors from hobby king to connect my battery to controller.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__20353__HXT_6mm_Gold_Connector_w_Protector_10pcs_set_.html


They have become so hard to connect and disconnect them. I literally have to push and pull with all my strength. I wind up pulling the wires to help disconnect them.

I am not sure why they became so difficult, I know that they are dirty as they are under the bike and exposed to dirt and mud.

I was wondering if anyone has issues with their own connectors that become difficult like this and if there is anything I can do?

 

[Drunkskunk]

every time you plug in the battery, it will arc, blasting a tiny bit of the surface off into the plasma spark you see, and depositing a layer of carbon all over the inside of both connectors. The pitting makes them rougher, and the carbon makes them dirtier, less conductive, and a b!tch to pull apart. I know, I use them. Cleaning them gets rid of the carbon, but the pitting makes them harder to slide together and apart. A spark resistor might help, but replacing them often is what you may have to do.

Unfortunately, they have been on backorder since forever. I'm waiting for some, too.

 

[mlt34]

DrunkSkunk, do you think a bit of dielectric grease would protect from the pitting and make them easier to disconnect/reconnect?

 

[Offroader]

What I discovered is if you file down the connectors a bit they are much easier to reconnect again. With the 6mm connectors you could also squeeze the male connector slightly to make it a bit smaller. However, you may not have proper tension if you squeeze the male connector.

So best is to file down the connectors slowly while trying to insert them until they fit back in smoothly.

 

[Ypedal]

One of the reasons i like Andersons so much.... and there are many more reasons.

 

[Ykick]

Grease and oil makes arcing worse IMO. I love bullets for phase wire connections but as Ypedal notes - APP's the champ for battery-controller connections. San oil/grease of course.

 

[Offroader]

Why are andersons good for battery controller connections?

 

[DAND214]

Why are andersons good for battery controller connections?

they are self-cleaning, as others will say.

Dan

 

[tahustvedt]

In the 80's, dielectric grease was used on mechanical speed controllers on RC cars to prevent sparking at the brush. Perhaps it helps reduce the effect of sparking on connectors, and aids use by lubrication them.

 

[teklektik]

What I discovered is if you file down the connectors a bit they are much easier to reconnect again.

Filing connectors removes the plating and exposes the base metal to oxidation (resistance).
The plating is there for a reason....
Really not a good plan.

 

[teklektik]

Why are andersons good for battery controller connections?

They are designed to be connected/disconnected many times. When connecting, there is a leading lip than contacts first and takes any arcing/pitting, the contact then depresses and slides up to the actual carry current surface, wiping it clean as it goes. The tips may eventually look raggity, but the actual running contact surface stays undamaged.

That said, they have other issues, particularly from contact misalignment and heating - often from using too large wire/insulation or wicking solder up the wire so it can't flex. Another issue is leaving them connected forever without dielectric grease to inhibit oxidation. The low-tension contacts may eventually develop resistance (from not being connected/disconnected and self-cleaning), so they can sometimes heat up and toast the plastic shroud.

No connector is perfect - pick your poison...
Ykick has the best solution - pick the connector according to the task to play on its strengths...

(...modest power - so I use APPs... )

 

[Offroader]

What I discovered is if you file down the connectors a bit they are much easier to reconnect again.

Filing connectors removes the plating and exposes the base metal to oxidation (resistance).
The plating is there for a reason....
Really not a good plan.

Good point. I didn't think they were plated because they looked copper in color and figured they were solid copper. Are you sure all connectors are plated?

Those connectors will be cut just as soon as I get the Max E anyway, that is why I filed them because they were becoming almost impossible to remove.

 

[John in CR]

No connector is perfect - pick your poison...
Ykick has the best solution - pick the connector according to the task to play on its strengths...

I disagree. The best solution is to make permanent connections, and charge the battery while it is on the bike. The hobby of connecting and disconnecting lots of sub packs seems silly to me, especially when everyone doing it makes plasma creating costly mistakes in the process.

 

[Ykick]

I never mess with sub-packs but I do use APP's for battery-controller connection. Mostly because I want COMPLETELY disconnected battery-controller when not in use. How many times have we heard "I left my controller plugged-in and went on vacation for couple weeks"?

 

[Offroader]

I balance charge each time my 2.6KW hour pack that consists of 24 6s 5000MAH packs. I do this while it is still on the bike.

I actually like to balance charge each time because I feel it is much safer than to bulk charge it, I just don't trust those cheap Chinese bulk charges. I also change often what voltage I want to charge my pack to which is easily done. I balance charge at about 1000 watts.

I simply just have three main battery connections to connect, and I have three balance lead adapters to connect. So 6 connections to make to balance charge it.

It doesn't really take that long, probably 20 seconds to do it, but the three main battery connections suck to connect and disconnect as they get older.

I had my fare share of plasma by plugging in the wrong wires.

With all this said, I look forward to the Max-E which will be a one connection balance charge and avoid having to charge like I have been doing.

 

[Mundo]

Flat Power Plugs and Connector

I like these connectors for batteries disconnects.

From http://www.mcmaster.com/

Item numbers.

Male 8172K2


Female 8172K6

I've had these plugs for a few years, holding up very well

 

[cal3thousand]

No connector is perfect - pick your poison...
Ykick has the best solution - pick the connector according to the task to play on its strengths...

I disagree. The best solution is to make permanent connections, and charge the battery while it is on the bike. The hobby of connecting and disconnecting lots of sub packs seems silly to me, especially when everyone doing it makes plasma creating costly mistakes in the process.

It's not always feasible to keep your pack on your bike. I prefer a removable pack since I live in LA and the dirtbags are out in full force in Summer. I would never leave my bike with my battery attached. I also transfer my packs between bikes, keeping my pack costs down and intimacy up :wink:

 

[brumbrum]

Fo me , Anderson power poles 50amp rated. Be aware of copies as these can be loose when clicked together. But the originals can be hard to pull apart watch out for your knuckles and wire pull when disconnecting. Maybe try one real one and one copy to pair up. The spades that come with these are very robust and i have never had one fail due to the sparking when connecting together over hundreds of times.

 

[Offroader]

Fo me , Anderson power poles 50amp rated. Be aware of copies as these can be loose when clicked together. But the originals can be hard to pull apart watch out for your knuckles and wire pull when disconnecting. Maybe try one real one and one copy to pair up. The spades that come with these are very robust and i have never had one fail due to the sparking when connecting together over hundreds of times.

I solved the knuckles and wire pull somewhat by extending the wire length.

 

[brumbrum]

Fo me , Anderson power poles 50amp rated. Be aware of copies as these can be loose when clicked together. But the originals can be hard to pull apart watch out for your knuckles and wire pull when disconnecting. Maybe try one real one and one copy to pair up. The spades that come with these are very robust and i have never had one fail due to the sparking when connecting together over hundreds of times.

I solved the knuckles and wire pull somewhat by extending the wire length.

Yep, something i learned along the ebike journey, and you get used to the wiggle and pull technique which stops the knuckles scenario