Anyone converted a 29er dual disc brakes?
- Thread starter adobian
- Start date
One of the thoughts I had was to use a 26 inch kit in the rear to make a 69er bike. It looks like the Golden motor has a 28 inch kit that could be disc brake mountable. However, I was wondering if I need to modify anything to make it fit to the disc brake,
Another one is to use friction drive but somehow I don't feel comfortable with it.
Another idea is chain drive. I like the idea that the gas motor kit has with the chain to the rear, but then I would have to sacrifice the rear disc brake rotor to use the sprocket in place. So a motor attached to the frame driving one of the 7 sprockets in the freewheel would be ideal.
Any comment on these methods?
Another one is to use friction drive but somehow I don't feel comfortable with it.
Another idea is chain drive. I like the idea that the gas motor kit has with the chain to the rear, but then I would have to sacrifice the rear disc brake rotor to use the sprocket in place. So a motor attached to the frame driving one of the 7 sprockets in the freewheel would be ideal.
Any comment on these methods?
Hey adobian,
I was considering a Genenis "Onyx" rear hub motor build but decided against it due to:
1. The Onyx has an aluminum frame (alum dropouts can be "tricky" to spread).
2. 29ers require more system power in order meet the average performance needs. Your "69er" thoughts might well address this problem tho.
The biggest "problem" with most rear disk brake setups is that the hub motor case tends to interfere with the caliper (I think ebikes.ca or ebikekit has more to say about this problem and what you can do about it).
BTW, ES member "BigKauna" has posted several comments about his desire to build a 29 Onyx with a friction, mid, or hub drive:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=29125
I was considering a Genenis "Onyx" rear hub motor build but decided against it due to:
1. The Onyx has an aluminum frame (alum dropouts can be "tricky" to spread).
2. 29ers require more system power in order meet the average performance needs. Your "69er" thoughts might well address this problem tho.
The biggest "problem" with most rear disk brake setups is that the hub motor case tends to interfere with the caliper (I think ebikes.ca or ebikekit has more to say about this problem and what you can do about it).
BTW, ES member "BigKauna" has posted several comments about his desire to build a 29 Onyx with a friction, mid, or hub drive:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=29125
TonyReynolds
1 kW
A 700C wheel is the same size as a 29er wheel: both are 622-XX.
You could simply mount a 700C kit wheel and motor on the rear of your 29er and use your existing tire, IF the existing rim isn't too much wider than the new, motor rim. The other option would be to send your wheel to Justin at ebikes.ca and have him custom-lace a motor into your rim, OR order a kit from cell_man or whomever and take the motor and rim to the LBS of your choice and have it laced into your rim. Most competent wheel builders should be able to do it.
I've thought about doing this as well, though I don't have a 29er. The problem is the bracing for the brakes. Many bike frames (especially road frames) don't allow enough room between the rim and the brace for the larger circumference tires that a 29er uses.
I'm a newb. If you want better input from the experts on the forum, you MIGHT want to post pictures of your 29er, or the one you have in mind, brand, etc. That will give people more info to go from and you'll be more likely to get a response.
Best,
Tony
You could simply mount a 700C kit wheel and motor on the rear of your 29er and use your existing tire, IF the existing rim isn't too much wider than the new, motor rim. The other option would be to send your wheel to Justin at ebikes.ca and have him custom-lace a motor into your rim, OR order a kit from cell_man or whomever and take the motor and rim to the LBS of your choice and have it laced into your rim. Most competent wheel builders should be able to do it.
I've thought about doing this as well, though I don't have a 29er. The problem is the bracing for the brakes. Many bike frames (especially road frames) don't allow enough room between the rim and the brace for the larger circumference tires that a 29er uses.
I'm a newb. If you want better input from the experts on the forum, you MIGHT want to post pictures of your 29er, or the one you have in mind, brand, etc. That will give people more info to go from and you'll be more likely to get a response.
Best,
Tony
I am a newbie as well and I right now I have not built one e bike just yet.
I came across a 29er at Walmart (please don't laugh
) the Mongoose Deception that I really like. Right now I am on the 90 days trial, with the option to return the bike:..
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mongoose-Deception-29-Men-s-Mountain-Bike/16913451
I like the Phantom X from Prodeco because they warranty everything for 2 years. However, i was just wondering if I could build a cheaper bike with perhaps better quality motor, risking blown motor and bad battery without the good 2year warranty from Prodeco. I saw the Mongoose Deception and thought the frame would make a nice build. But then, sometimes I would say to myself: "Why not just get a 26 inch mountain bike on Craigslist for cheap, maybe $50, a Mongoose xr-75, then an ebay kit for $275, and a 48V battery and be done with ?"
I came across a 29er at Walmart (please don't laugh
) the Mongoose Deception that I really like. Right now I am on the 90 days trial, with the option to return the bike:..http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mongoose-Deception-29-Men-s-Mountain-Bike/16913451
I like the Phantom X from Prodeco because they warranty everything for 2 years. However, i was just wondering if I could build a cheaper bike with perhaps better quality motor, risking blown motor and bad battery without the good 2year warranty from Prodeco. I saw the Mongoose Deception and thought the frame would make a nice build. But then, sometimes I would say to myself: "Why not just get a 26 inch mountain bike on Craigslist for cheap, maybe $50, a Mongoose xr-75, then an ebay kit for $275, and a 48V battery and be done with ?"
TonyReynolds
1 kW
Many people here have started with Wally-World bikes or others, because the build of the department store bikes is sometimes heavier and more suited to an ebike conversion than some of the more expensive bikes. My two donor bikes were of the latter variety, but that's simply what I had available.
Your comment that perhaps you could build a better bike from scratch than the Prodeco is correct and the reason why this forum exists: most here believe they can build from scratch and end up with a better quality bike.
One thing to keep in mind is do you want a battery in the frame triangle or not. That's a nice option (more expensive) and the way I went, but it has its advantages. That said, I'm now limited to bikes with frames that fit my battery geometry...
Tony
Your comment that perhaps you could build a better bike from scratch than the Prodeco is correct and the reason why this forum exists: most here believe they can build from scratch and end up with a better quality bike.
One thing to keep in mind is do you want a battery in the frame triangle or not. That's a nice option (more expensive) and the way I went, but it has its advantages. That said, I'm now limited to bikes with frames that fit my battery geometry...
Tony
TonyReynolds
1 kW
adobian said:
US$1250 delivered (SAL) for the 700C wheel and 500-1000W geared hub-motor, 48V 11.5Ah LiFePO triangle battery, 30A controller, throttle and handbrakes.
The battery was $650 plus $30 for the nylon frame pack. The motor and wheel, controller, etc. was $333. Everything else was shipping.
I figured it was foolish to try to cut costs by substituting a sub-par battery from the very start. Buying inadequate, cheap batteries is dollars wasted in the long run.
Tony
TonyReynolds
1 kW
Many here will tell you to steer clear of ebay, as evidently there are some shady sellers that continually change their name and sell sub-par product. I PERSONALLY would buy from a reputable seller. For me that came down to ebikes.ca or cell_man. I went with cell_man because the triangle frame-pack battery i wanted wasn't available from ebikes.ca anymore and because cell_man had a broader selection of motors available. That said, I saved some $$$, but waited longer because of shipping.
So the guy on eBay wants $400 for a kit shipped? What if it turns out to be a gyp, and you lose your money or the parts fail on you? Then you have to add that cost to a legitimate kit and pay way MORE than if you'd bought from a reputable seller. It's simply a case of caveat emptor.
I'm personally having issues with Cycle Analyst integration and am glad that I bought from someone who's honest and gives good service.
Best, Tony
So the guy on eBay wants $400 for a kit shipped? What if it turns out to be a gyp, and you lose your money or the parts fail on you? Then you have to add that cost to a legitimate kit and pay way MORE than if you'd bought from a reputable seller. It's simply a case of caveat emptor.
I'm personally having issues with Cycle Analyst integration and am glad that I bought from someone who's honest and gives good service.
Best, Tony
jimw1960
10 kW
Those batteries on ebay are only good for 1C continuous output, so a 20Ah battery would be limited to a 20-amp controller. If you want to ride at 30mph (which can be dangerous on a bicycle frame), you need at least a 40-amp controller. The A123 packs that cellman sells can handle that kind of power easily, even if only a 10Ah pack.
TonyReynolds
1 kW
jimw1960 said:
My 11.5Ah LiFePO battery from cell_man will do 30+ MPH with the supplied 30A Infineon controller. But it's powering an 8T 500/1000W motor. (1000W on 48V system), and the battery is 10C.
TonyReynolds
1 kW
adobian said:
I don't fully understand it either, but it relates to the number of amps that can be discharged from the battery. The larger the number, the better.
This is from an R/C website:
jimw1960
10 kW
Right, so if you have a 10Ah battery a 1C battery can push only 10 amps; a 10C battery can push 100 amps.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/29-INCH-MOUNTAIN-BIKE-motorized-bicycle-NEW-shift-kit-/320745252061?pt=Mountain_Bikes&hash=item4aade824dd
Here is a 29er with a motorized kit.
Could someone comment on how we can do this with an electric motor? Where could I find parts to implement this design? thanks.
I have sent the seller a message inviting him to upload his pictures to this thread. Hopefully, he will help.
Here is a 29er with a motorized kit.
Could someone comment on how we can do this with an electric motor? Where could I find parts to implement this design? thanks.
I have sent the seller a message inviting him to upload his pictures to this thread. Hopefully, he will help.
nuevomexicano
100 W
adobian said:
Basically, you seem to be wanting a motor that drives a chain to the rear wheel.
Older/low end Currie Electric bikes like the Ezip Trail used some akin to this. Someone already mentioned an RC motor for the build your own option.
MadRhino
100 GW
An RC build will be noizy, and more complicated for a first time builder. I would go for a slow winding hub motor, then you'd have a ride before the winter. Methods offers some slow wound 9C kits in the sale section. Might be an easy, simple and reliable solution for a good price. Learn to use Lipo and you'll have a powerfull, yet lightweight bike. Discuss this build with Methods, he will give you practical advice.
hillzofvalp
100 kW
I am working on a 29er right now and will post more pics when it's finished.. I've tested it with the 2807 and I see about 28mph on the flats at 14s A123 26650 cells... but I would like to try an even slower wind with a 21S pack..
I'm just using two inch u channel welded together.. held with water bottle mounts and u bolts. I can fit 21S inside because it's an XL frame. Overall width with polycarbonate is 2.25", which I haven't seen anywhere on this forum..
I'm just using two inch u channel welded together.. held with water bottle mounts and u bolts. I can fit 21S inside because it's an XL frame. Overall width with polycarbonate is 2.25", which I haven't seen anywhere on this forum..
hillzofvalp
100 kW
with my motor it was necessary to shim the disk out a bit and also machine the outer portion of the adapter. Everything fits with 1-2mm clearance, which is good enough but not ideal. I chose this surly karate monkey because it is bombproof. the dropouts are 1/4" steel.... and the disc side is reinforced with that thick solid brace.
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