anyone going tubeless?

[cwah]

hello,

i'd like to update my dahon jetstream tyres to tubeless:

I'd like it to be durable and tough too, so maybe moped tyre:
http://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin//rshop.pl?details=Ordern&cart_id=&kplz=&Cookie=&dsco=110&language=&typ=R-130870&ranzahl=4

any of you manage to get tubeless moped tyres?

 

[nutnspecial]

What are the reasons? I was thinking most people that do are offroaders, because the tyre conforms better to terrain and can't get pinches at low psi. I tried ghetto style on bike components, and learned you want a specific tire, as unlined/uncoated ones just keep sweating the slime.

I suppose if going to moped tires, the specific tires and rim kits would be far better than diy versions, but can't see any real benefit over running slime in a tube with higher road psi?

 

[themadhatter106]

Is tubeless really better than tubed? If my tire picks up a screw on the road all I need to do is take out the screw and replace the tube for my spare. If you have tubeless then you need to repair the tire.

 

[motomech]

I've run tubeless, using both a kit(Stan's) and DIY "Getto conversion" with moderate success(more on these in a moment), but I would say, that if you can use a size where there are serious flat resistant tires available, like Schwalbe offers, that is a better way to go.

 

[motomech]

hello,

i'd like to update my dahon jetstream tyres to tubeless:

I'd like it to be durable and tough too, so maybe moped tyre:
http://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin//rshop.pl?details=Ordern&cart_id=&kplz=&Cookie=&dsco=110&language=&typ=R-130870&ranzahl=4

any of you manage to get tubeless moped tyres?

There are no tubeless moped tires, but you don't need them to be.
I wouldn't hesitate to mount that Shinko tubeless.
I doubt there are any kits that size, so it would have to be a "getto" job like this one;
http://ridemonkey.bikemag.com/threads/ghetto-tubeless-conversion-diy-tips-and-tricks.240026/
You probably want to use a 12" tube for the donor tube because it's important to stretch it tight over the rim before mounting the tire and it needs to have a threaded Schrader valve to "lock it down".
Since the side wall on the Shinko is fairly stiff, the trick would be to have the Shinko fit the rim just right. Loose enough that you can lever it over the liner ("Getto") tube without tearing it(you probably would need use metal tire irons)) and at the same time fit tight enough that it will seal enough to inflate. No doubt, you will need to use a gas station style compressor w/a big tank.
One trick in to put a layer of double stick(foam type) tape, between two layers of the rim tape to take up space to help with sealing.
Use lot's of sealant, more than they recommend.
On my tubeless set-ups using non tubeless bicycle tires, I do get some slow leakage(seapage?) down to 20 psi and then it stops. I attribute this to air "permeating" thru the super thin side walls, but I doubt that would occur with the thicker side walls of a moped tire.

 

[motomech]

Is tubeless really better than tubed? If my tire picks up a screw on the road all I need to do is take out the screw and replace the tube for my spare. If you have tubeless then you need to repair the tire.

The difference is, you will fixing your flat by the side of the road, while I can add some air, and maybe some more sealant, and ride it home to do the repair.

 

[motomech]

As I indicated above, I get some slow leakage when using a non-tubeless tire tubeless. If I park the bike with say, 28 psi in the tires, they will be at 20 psi in a couple days, but never lower. It seems like when the pressure is high enough, air finds it's way thru the sidewalls.
NBD, I just have to top them up before going out again.
As far as how much more flat resistant running tubeless is, it's hard to say. I'm not getting flats due to the goat's head thorns like is used too, but it's been off-season for those nasty buggers right now. We'll see in the summer.
I did get one flat though, had a cactus spine go though the sidewall, but not much could prevent that.

 

[ferret]

Switching to tubless, my riding buddies and I noticed a significant reduction in flats (mountain biking).

Avner.

 

[Deafcat]

Everything I've read up on tubeless is mostly very positive, I'll be setting mine up this way too (front and back). front will eventually get a new 27.5 UTB-format rim and tire (which is a Universal Tubeless standard for a better seal without using any tape/etc besides the required liner)

 

[Leebolectric]

Don't forget the hybrid option...put Stan's sealant in the inner tube.
Most inner tubes, especially Shrader valve...have removable valve cores.
Take out the core, use a squeeze bottle to squirt in the sealant....then replace the valve core.

Less messy, much easier setup...and double durability.

For MTB...all my bikes are tubeless...but that is for weight loss and lower operating pressures.
On E-bike...I run higher pressures, and weight is less of a concern...so tube AND sealant is cool.

 

[Leebolectric]

(WARNING)
Some brands of tires, (kenda) react poorly to sealants.
The rubber can blister and weaken after exposure to the chemicals in the sealant...and potentially cause wrecks.
If going tubeless...be sure to use "TublessReady" "SealantCompatable" or full "UST" types of tires.

 

[spinningmagnets]

Karl at electric-fatbike.com did a short article on tubeless. The main theme was to run low pressure in an off road fatbike. Go to that article for the real details, but I recall you install a regular tube, then slice the center of the tread part all 360 degrees all the way around, and fold the two sides out to create a rubber edge on the rim. Even if it required airing up the tire more often, it might be worth it to some riders.

From my motorcycle years, I hate motor tubes, and I encourage anyone new to motorcycles or scooters to pay extra to get tubeless. As stated elsewhere above, pull the nail, shove in the glue - covered plug, air it up and...you are back on the road.

For flats, there was also the idea of running two tubes, with a deflated one mounted next to the rim. If you get a flat, pull the thorn, and inflate the second tube. Requires drilling a second hole in the rim for the second air-fill stem.

 

[cwah]

I'd like ideally not to go ghetto and buy something commercially available and proven. I don't want to deal with leak and experimentation until I find the right combination.

Isn't there something available to buy? Something made for moped but with tyre width close to 2.25" (for my dropout) would be good.

Nothing like that in the market?

 

[alfantastic]

I'd like ideally not to go ghetto and buy something commercially available and proven. I don't want to deal with leak and experimentation until I find the right combination.

Isn't there something available to buy? Something made for moped but with tyre width close to 2.25" (for my dropout) would be good.

Nothing like that in the market?

I'm not totally familiar with your bike, but I've been doing some research and wondered if this would be suitable for your needs?

http://www.schwalbe.com/gb/tour-reader/big-apple-plus.html

It's got level 5 puncture protection, which is only one down from the Marathon Plus.

 

[cwah]

I've been using the big apple plus for 2 months actually.... until it had a puncture and I had to continue riding until home with punctured tyre.

It ended up with a completely damaged tyre so I decided to go level up in term of puncture protection with a marathon plus....

However, I know I'd still get a puncture every couple of months and it's such a pain I'd prefer to have puncture proof tyre.....

 

[Leebolectric]

the only "puncture proof" tire is one with no air inside....which would ride like crap.
they make solid rubber tubes, , or foam filled tubes...but they all ruin performance.


Schwalbe makes a ProCore kit...so you can have a second extra beefy tube inside the tubeless setup as a backup.
Expensive, heavy...and not the best idea....but they would let you ride the rest of the way home before doing the repair.

 

[nutnspecial]

Hi cwah, I searched 'tubeless moped tire' and 'tubeless moped rim'. Tires and kits come up.

It might be a challenge to find <2.5" tires, but they've gotta be out there. Prob will have to figure the metric size/ratio meas for the width. I also see kits for spoked wheels similar to mtn bikes. Although it's attractive to possibly just plug the tire, a slime filled tube also does a helluv a lot.

 

[cwah]

The pro core kit is overpriced and doesn't exist for 20" wheel anyway...
http://www.bikeinn.com/bike/schwalbe-procore-pack-29-inches/676758/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=1095841&country=uk&gclid=CLOa-dLPwsoCFSMHwwodNd4P8A&gclsrc=aw.ds

Nutspecial, my challenge is exactly that, finding out 2.25" tubeless moped tyre... isn't there any on the market?

I also wonder if a moped tyre would decrease significantly the chance of flat? How much better is it compared to a marathon plus?

 

[nutnspecial]

I'm not sure, do the math for rim and width/height in standard ratio tire size like 80/90-17 and search for it?
https://www.denniskirk.com/learn/tire-sizes-explained

Yes, tubeless or not, moped/ motorcycle are way heavier tread than any bike tires I've heard of. The ones I've put hands on are 2 and 3 times heavier, and multi ply dot rated, so way better for pinches/punctures

 

[macribs]

Is tubeless really better than tubed? If my tire picks up a screw on the road all I need to do is take out the screw and replace the tube for my spare. If you have tubeless then you need to repair the tire.

Well in exactly these cases is where tubeless outshines tires & tubes. You got a big screw/nail/sharp metal protruding your tire. If you are riding tires and tubes - you got some work to do. And you better be ready to get your hands dirty. Not to mention it will take a lot of time. Especially if you are riding on moped tires.

If you are riding tubeless, remove sharp object get one of them "sticky plugs" out from your tubeless repair kit and jam that thing into the hole. Fixed in 30 seconds or less. Fill up with canned air. Easy peasy. The quick and easy repair roadside is enough for me to prefer tubeless. Ghetto tubeless work well. Make sure to get like 2" smaller innertube then rim - then cut as in those youtube's.

Did I mention that when you do get a flat, air will move slower from a tubeless then from tire & tube. Much slower. Added safety?

 

[AF7JA]

Another question about tubeless; is it a mess when you do change the tyre?

I change tyres twice a year. I put the studded ones on in the winter; then I have a pair off summer tyres. What kind of a mess would that be?

 

[WoodlandHills]

The sealant is water soluble, I just break down the tire outside and use a hose to wash it clean. The split tube is reusable, but the sealant isn't free, so now you have an added expense twice a year. I don't mind, but others might find it more consequential. I like the improved traction from a softer sidewall and the freedom from pinch flats off-road, the bike feels different with tubeless. That said it is a PITA to do as opposed to a tubed tire :?

 

[Drunkskunk]

Tubeless is only good for weight savings, something that is negated by using a moped tire. The reason some tubeless riders see fewer flats is because of the sealant. You will always have fewer flats if you use a sealant. If you want fewer flats than the tubeless riders get, use a sealant and a tube together.
With a tube, you don't lose the air over time.

There are no tubeless moped tires, but there are motorcycle tires in that size range. the CST C921 is a 2.5"x16 tire that might work for you. But being a motorcycle tire, it has a thick sidewall and you would have trouble mounting it on a thin walled bike rim. Compared to a moped tire, it will be heavy as Fvck, so you would likely be better off just running a tube and Tire Slime.

 

[Leebolectric]

Sealant needs to be replaced every month or two...it goes bad.
Tubeless is NOT the choice for less maintenance...it requires attention to perform correctly.
Tubes are far "easier"
Downhill/Thornproof double thick tubes are the least effort...and most weight.

 

[Chalo]

Yes, it makes a mess. Sealant is water soluble in the same way that school glue is water soluble. You don't want to let it dry or get any on you if you can help it. Good luck with that.

If you want to deal with a nasty mess instead of a simple tube change, go tubeless. If you want to spend half an hour fixing a flat instead of five minutes, go tubeless. If you want to have to clean out your tires once a month even if you don't get any punctures, go tubeless. If you want your tires to be extra difficult to mount and dismount, go tubeless. If you want to spend a lot more than necessary, go tubeless.

I've said it before, and I'll keep saying it until people give up on this stupid fad: Tubeless bicycle tires are a gimmick and a hobby. We already have a better hobby.