Arlo's 24 fet monster build

[Arlo1]

Got it runing today!!!!!
Now HOW THE frock DO i GET THE PROGRAMING SOFTWERE TO WORK???????????????????????????????????????????????? :?

 

[Doctorbass]

Have you contacted Steveo?

Otherwise.. I think i have the Parameter designer that work for the 24 and 36 fets at home. i'll look for that tonight :wink:

E-Doc

 

[Arlo1]

Have you contacted Steveo?

Otherwise.. I think i have the Parameter designer that work for the 24 and 36 fets at home. i'll look for that tonight :wink:

E-Doc

Thanks Doc but I can't get any Parameter design software to run on this computer!!!
Its something to do with the way you have to add the drivers.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14807&start=30

 

[Arlo1]

Ok I got it running today and mounted it on my bmx with the x5304
I went for a ride and I get controler resets.
I can slowly roll on the throttle and get it to top speed but if I grab a handfull of throttle it cuts out then I have to shut the controler off and start it again.
IM not sure why yet but some imput would be cool.
I knoticed the speedo what all over the place and the regen doesnt work but I will proly be able to fix them my self.
Im thinking the shunt might be a little off with the way I run the tubing. I will have to find a way to make it work!!
I Can tell you all this though THIS 24 FET IS CRAZY POWERFULL!

 

[grindz145]

I've never seen this, could be weird ground level shifts or something... How is the wiring to the controller itself? Long wires?

 

[Arlo1]

I've never seen this, could be weird ground level shifts or something... How is the wiring to the controller itself? Long wires?

Short wires. Being as my pictures are all MIA I will have to take some more pictures and get them up so everyone can understand but the shunt is part of the negative copper tubing running though the housing. So it may be a part of that.
The trick is how do I figure it out???
Is it possible I have the shunt value to low?

 

[mdd0127]

Please forgive me if you've already tried this and I missed it but infineon based controllers have a hard current limiter circuit that you're tripping with the big shunt. There are a couple of threads somewhere on here about and I think the solution is pretty simple. I saved all of it and have forgotten! Need to find it and look through it again soon. Anyway, a search with the magic lucky search terms might find the answers. Something like changing the setting from a 24 fet to a 36 fet helps and I believe a resistor mod/delete??? that eliminates it completely. I need to get to bed. I'll find and post the info tomorrow if you haven't already figured it out.

 

[mdd0127]

Here it is:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16910&hilit=infineon+hard+current+limiter

 

[grindz145]

It doesn't make alot of sense to me that it would be freaking out of the sense. I would think that it would just not current limit if the shunt was too low. Thats the only feedback purpose that I know of it being used for. I'm wondering if somehow your getting too high of a draw from something on the 5V bus, and you're taking it out somehow, causing the chip to reset.

Edit: does this only happen during throttle movement? I wonder if theres a short in the throttle, and its pulling down the 5V regulator, just a wild guess.

 

[Thud]

That goofy hard cut out on the xiechang boards is really anoying....not as anoying as a blown controller though. On the smaller boards you can change the resistance of R43 or add a resistor accross the c20 capictor....

Jeremy H speculated that there is some inductive bouncing going on in the buss causing this circute too trigger so sensitivly.

The big effect is in the programming of the controller...if the battery & phase current ratio's are not right, it get sensitive. its been awhile, But IIRC my best results were with the phase currents about 1.75x the battery current settings on the 18fet.

I have had the cutting out issue on the 6fet, 12fet & 18fet units.....I have R43 removed from my 6fet controller that runs the tiny motors(not recomended)

Please keep in mind I am ellectarded......

 

[grindz145]

Thats a much better explanation than my random guesses for sure... :lol:

 

[Arlo1]

Ahw I woke up made a coffee and sat down on my computer and I had a bunch of help thanks guys!!!
Thud Im more of an electard then you lol
Ok so lol I have to describe my build
#1 It has 6 gauge phase wires!!! (Just wait till you see the 6 gauge andersons I found!!!)
#2 I could not get any programing software that lets me choose 24 fets!
#3 The copper tube is my + and - trace build up wire and works as my shunt.
#4 Im running 24s 2p lipo!!!
#5 My caps on this bord are all 200 volt rated because I bought a hi power kit from steveo then he stiffed me on 4115 fets.
Then Luke gave me some 4110s to get me going and saved the day!
What I belive is happening is its programed as a 18 fet (I have 5 parameter design programs NON ALOW ME TO CHOOSE 24 FETS!)

This makes sense here from the link you posted md

"Hi,
I have a Turnigy 63-74 that I added hall sensors to and I have hooked it up to a 6-fet infineon controller. The issue that I am having is that I seem to have found a phase/hall wiring combo that works. I can roll the throttle on gently and the motor starts to run with a low no-load current. Unfortunately if I ramp up the throttle, the controller stops driving the motor. I then have to close the throttle before it will start again. It is as if I am tripping LVC or some fault. I am running it of 12S1P 5000mAh lipo, and it is the 48V version of the controller.

Any suggestions on where I should look? Thanks in advance.

-Matt

*Edit*
Spoiler Alert:
The 6-fet, 12fet, and 18fet 116 controllers have 2 types of current limit. 1 is a software limit which reads the voltage across the shunt, and uses it to control the power to the motor. There is a second hard cutoff which uses the voltage across the shunt to switch a transistor which causes the controller to fault. For RC type motors, it is very easy to trip this second shunt from very short high current pulses.

There are 3 ways to Change this hard cutoff:
(from ZapPat on page 5, red are additions by me)

- So I guess the easiest fix for the cutout is the programming technique:
Selecting "EB212" instead of "EB206", and then doubling both the current limits (as compared to the usually used limits for the "EB206" you need to double your desired currents because the 12-fet has 2 parallel shunts, where the 6-fet only has 1, so the 12-fet will give twice the current for a given setting).
Or again... Selecting "EB218" instead of "EB206", and then tripling both the programmed current limits with the "EB218" compared to the usually used limits for the "EB206".

- There is the method of adding a resistor across surface mount capacitor "C20" which acts as a voltage divider for the overcurrent signal. A 1kohm resistor here should double your overcurrent cutoff, a 500ohm one tripple it, and a 333ohm quadruple it.

- There is also the good old shunt soldering method that would also help reduce the cutoffs of course.

- Adding some extra capacitance in parallel with "C20" may also help reduce sporadic overcurrent cutoffs by filtering out the spikes.
C20 is unmarked, so we don't know what value it is. My solution was to increase R43, it is 1k standard, I have increased it to 47K, which has effectively filtered out all the current spikes, but if the current is high long enough it will still trip the cutoff.

 

[Arlo1]

So I realy realy need someone who can give me a link to software (parameter design) that will let me chose 24fets!

 

[Arlo1]

EDIT:
I now have 6 different parameter design programs on my computer and one of them goes above 18 fets lol.
I can now program a 24 or 36 fet controler!!!

 

[Doctorbass]

Good new!

Keep us informed!

 

[Arlo1]

I think i got it. I had the negative going in the wrong way so the shunt was reading -voltage drop lol

 

[Arlo1]

Ok lol so.... I think I might have what luke warned me about!!! I am getting a lvc but only on the phase limits!
I tried a lot of stuff and the LVC is set at low as possible!
SO what do I do I think I understand the link and how to smoth out the current riple with r47 so Im going to try that!

 

[Arlo1]

Got it!!!! I have never Felt My bike pull like this I was leaning over the bars and watching the CA say 250+ amps as I was trying to keep my serious power wheely down that I had to lett off from!!! Its never been this fast.
Check out my Massive andersons!!!
I hit a Huge peak on amps too! >450
My shunt is calibrated !!!

 

[markobetti]

i digg the iron comming out of controller

 

[Arlo1]

i digg the iron comming out of controller

Its copper tubing and its on the + amd - traces to help cool the fet legs and the inside of the bord!
I was planing to make it to liquid cool the bord!

 

[Thud]

Sounds great Arlo,

How long will the 4110's last pumping 200+ amps? (you really need to get to Touscon the 16th )
I really want to line up against you & that bike on the p1 track! it will be stupid fun!

 

[Arlo1]

Sounds great Arlo,

How long will the 4110's last pumping 200+ amps? (you really need to get to Touscon the 16th )
I really want to line up against you & that bike on the p1 track! it will be stupid fun!

We just bought a $400000 house and we move in in two more sleeps!!!
SO a trip to anywere is to expensive for me.
I Plan to turn down the power to ~150 continious for now to keep the controler happy and try to save my pour little x5 till I rewind it
Im going to order a bunch of controlers from marko and some winding wire by the start of next week. Once I recover from all that debt and get on my feet I will try to plan a trip down!
I am already planning to come help luke on his new project!!!

 

[markobetti]

Arlo about that...check your pm...and I AM SORRY!!!!

 

[Arlo1]

 

[poirot89]

You can push a train with this :lol:
What motor do you use for this result?

Is it powerfull