Bargain wheel set with nexus 8 speed & hub motor

Chalo said:
No combination of an 8-speed gearhub, decent quality front hub, two double-walled rims and 72 stainless spokes plus expert assembly will reach an individual consumer for $168 without someone having gotten burned in the process.
I agree, this is an extremely low price for a wheel set like this. A massive company like Chain Reaction can easily absorb a loss on some products.
I'm glad to hear others on this forum took this offer up. One of my local friend also scored one of these wheel sets, so there must be a fair few up for grabs as they are still available.
Cheers,
Matt.
 
Chalo said:
That's a salvage/surplus price that represents somebody taking a fat loss somewhere. If you'd ever opened up a 7- or 8-speed gearhub, you'd know that it's a bargain at a couple hundred bucks all by itself.
Yep. I'd buy one of these sets just to get the Nexus hub if it were the 8R36 instead of the 8R31. As it is, I'm trying to think of someone who needs an electric bike and already has a frame....
 
Just take one! If someone experienced with nexus 8's can help, I'll appreciate. I don't know what kind of "small parts", shifter and tensioner to buy and where to buy (shipment is a real problem, live in Brazil with hungry customs). I was thinking to use a small controller with 10s (36) and just 5 Ah, with PAS and cruise. What do you guys recommend to me?

BR,

- Fabio
 
I was tempted by a low watts (not to strip the nylon gears) but high voltage controller, to get descent top speed. I am mounting the stuff on my cyclocross beater and would like to be throttle less (pas only), because of the drop bars.

Any one with knowledge or experience on those?

http://www.conhismotor.com/ProductShow.asp?id=311

Tks!
 
Chalo said:
* snip * That's a salvage/surplus price that represents somebody taking a fat loss somewhere. If you'd ever opened up a 7- or 8-speed gearhub, you'd know that it's a bargain at a couple hundred bucks all by itself.

True that. I own two Internal hubs, one is an 8sp Alphine from Shimano (similar to Nexus but newer revision) and with all the wheel building, the shifter and rubber it was close to $500.00. These hubs are indeed a marvel of engeneering and work so wonderfully.

The 9speed Sram IG set has over 8000 kms (5000 mi) and works like the day i got it. Three years including dirt trails and other forms of abuse yet no maintenance done, although i might need to grease it up next year or two.
 
fabiograssi said:
Just take one! If someone experienced with nexus 8's can help, I'll appreciate. I don't know what kind of "small parts", shifter and tensioner to buy and where to buy (shipment is a real problem, live in Brazil with hungry customs). I was thinking to use a small controller with 10s (36) and just 5 Ah, with PAS and cruise. What do you guys recommend to me?

BR,

- Fabio

Hi there Fabio,
You should just need a shifter to get the nexus hub up and running as the wheel set should come with the anti torque washers and axle nuts.
These nuts and washers can be bought seperately in what they call a fitting kit.
I can't find just a shifter however Chain Reaction have a combination shifter/brake lever for an excellent price of $19.55AUD.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=79314
 
Fabio,

1000w is spot on, the hub is complete as described!
the brake and shifter cables were snipped when removed on mine.

looks like they are gone ...
282012 Discontinued

great thread 1000w!
 
1000w said:
Hi there Fabio,
You should just need a shifter to get the nexus hub up and running as the wheel set should come with the anti torque washers and axle nuts.
These nuts and washers can be bought seperately in what they call a fitting kit.
I can't find just a shifter however Chain Reaction have a combination shifter/brake lever for an excellent price of $19.55AUD.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=79314

As I remember (maybe wrong), each type of dropout use a different type of fitting kit. I want to use in a frame that uses a derailleur, so I think I will need a chain tensioner too...

About controllers, what is the best option for this motor?
 
I was able to use the provided "non-turn" washer provided with the wheelset on my frame. It has nearly vertical dropouts! I just swaped the left and right washers and it works quite well.

You are right, they are color coded. You are supposed to use the 8L 8R for a vertical dropout:
http://www.shimano.com/publish/cont...wnloadFile.html/05) Non Turn Washer Chart.pdf
BTW, if your bike has near horizontal dropouts, I have the pair of 5R and 5L washers (good for dropouts of less than about 30 degrees) that I don't use...

Also, the roller brake comes with a long torque arm, to be attached to the frame, use it! If not, the brake will turn, rip the cable off and do serious damage!

As for the chain tensionner, if you have somewhat of a horizontal dropout, you might be lucky and acheive correct chain tension by moving your wheel in the slots. Also, play with chainring size and chain length, mine just fit right with a 48 tooth in the front. I was not able to get it right with a 45. No tensioner is much slicker!
 
fabiograssi said:
About controllers, what is the best option for this motor?
A 6 fet controller will be more than ample for this motor, the gears will strip before you cook a 6 fet.
I've purchased a 6 fet infineon and a PAS from Cellman for this motor. I highly recommend Cellman's products and excellent service.
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=38&product_id=77
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=104
I'm planning on running 12S LiFePo4 (38volts) which should give a top speed of just over 35 kmh.
Hope this helps.
Matt.
 
1000w said:
A 6 fet controller will be more than ample for this motor, the gears will strip before you cook a 6 fet.
I've purchased a 6 fet infineon and a PAS from Cellman for this motor. I highly recommend Cellman's products and excellent service.
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=38&product_id=77
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=104
I'm planning on running 12S LiFePo4 (38volts) which should give a top speed of just over 35 kmh.
Hope this helps.
Matt.

Matt, this is running with this controller right know?
I want very low amps, so if someone can tell me about others options (smaller cases controller), I appreciate!

F
 
I haven't wired it up yet. There is no reason why it wouldn't work though, if that concerns you. I just have to work out the correct hall and phase wire combinations.
This controller is quite small, Dimensions: 125 * 65 * 35mm.
I don't think you find one much smaller.
 
You know that you could also get the "Ku63 250w 6mosfets high speed controller" It is suitable for Cute Q-85SX, Q-100SX and Central Motor (which is pretty much what this motor is). This controller is hybrid and can be run sensorless or with the hall wires connected.
ku63controller.jpg

http://www.bmsbattery.com/controlle...-250watts-brushless-hub-motor-controller.html
The controller is $15.30. The shipping will be steep. What I usually do is order miscellaneous extra to offset the shipping.
 
What is the closest motor i should choose in the ebike.ca simulator to see the expected performance of my build in progress?

Thank you all.
 
Racer_X said:
You know that you could also get the "Ku63 250w 6mosfets high speed controller" It is suitable for Cute Q-85SX, Q-100SX and Central Motor (which is pretty much what this motor is). This controller is hybrid and can be run sensorless or with the hall wires connected.
ku63controller.jpg

http://www.bmsbattery.com/controlle...-250watts-brushless-hub-motor-controller.html
The controller is $15.30. The shipping will be steep. What I usually do is order miscellaneous extra to offset the shipping.

What is the difference between ku63 and ku65 (this last comes with a small control panel for PAS and power). Appears to be almost the same thing!
 
What is the difference between ku63 and ku65?
don't know exactly. I use the ku63, ku93 and ku123 and they work pretty good for the price, will be doing a shunt mod on the ku63 to get even better performance. If I fail, it's cool cuz i picked up a couple of them as spares. I imagine the ku65 is better than the ku63 since it cost more.
 
My best guess based on the performance I'm getting is the Cute Q100 328r. The simulator shows that motor on a 700c wheel going 21.2 mph on 36v (12s) LiFe using a custom 14A controller.

Real world using my RC watt meter and phone GPS with a 36v 12s LiFeP04 12ah battery I get right about 21-22mph without peddling. I'm using the Con62 and it shows around 14A max draw and around a max of 500 watts on the meter.

The setup is nowhere near a 9c 2807 on 48V but it makes a really, really nice and light commuter bike. You can hardly notice the extra weight of the battery and motor but it gives me just enough to make it up some long and steep hills. I live on a mesa and I work on a mesa with a valley in between. Each hill on each side is around a mile to 1/2 mile long ranging from a 5% to a 12% grade at the ends. Most people start riding on these hills and end up walking the last 1/4 of the way or so. On this bike I can ride the whole way and just hump it a little harder the last 1/4 of the way. I work up a little sweat but that's what I wanted for this build.

I have another controller that's 17A. I'm thinking of trying this to see if I can get up to the final speed a little faster. I won't lie, at 14A the bike takes a running start to get to full speed.

fred0 said:
What is the closest motor i should choose in the ebike.ca simulator to see the expected performance of my build in progress?

Thank you all.
 
My pack is 12ah. I've only ridden it to and from work a few times so far. I've done maybe 30 miles or so. Each way is 5 miles, I ride mostly wide open throttle with several stops and one huge downhill and one huge up hill both ways. I charge at work. I've been averaging about 2.75ah each 5 mile trip. Doing the math I should get about 22 miles out of the whole pack. If it was flat and I did peddle I could see getting nearly unlimited range.
 
MD,

did you ever get the hall sensors hooked up ? I have the KU65 and it appears the motor/controller will not run w/o the hall sensors connected.
I am still trying to figure out what type of connector is on hub for the hall sensors.

Also what cable did you run from the controllers 3 phase bullets to the hubs 3 phase bullets ?
thanks! sounds like you are having fun!
 
Hi Deadmul3,
Yes, I did get them hooked up. I just matched the color for color on the CON62 controller for both the hall sensors and the phase wires. I know that the CON62 controller won't work without the hall sensors connected properly. The KU65 is supposed to work with or without the hall sensors connected.

I didn't use any connectors. I'm very good at soldering so the first thing I do is cut off all connectors and solder the wires directly to each other. This eliminates 99% of connection problems for me. I think my hub motor came with a small black connector for the halls and some weird bullets for the phase wires.

Deadmul3 said:
MD,

did you ever get the hall sensors hooked up ? I have the KU65 and it appears the motor/controller will not run w/o the hall sensors connected.
I am still trying to figure out what type of connector is on hub for the hall sensors.

Also what cable did you run from the controllers 3 phase bullets to the hubs 3 phase bullets ?
thanks! sounds like you are having fun!
 
MD. said:
I think my hub motor came with a small black connector for the halls and some weird bullets for the phase wires.
Those bullets are cheap automotive one's. It's a very good idea to take them out of the system as they can cause too much resistance, heat and failure.
I always use 4mm gold bullets on my phase connections, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__67__4mm_Gold_Connectors_10_pairs_20pc_.html
 
MD,

thanks for the reply/update. Yes, the small black connector on the hub is one I was trying to match for clean look but solder sounds like a simple solid way to go.

I haven't soldered in a while but I think i could manage. Do you recall the gauge of the small HS wires ? they look 24 or maybe 26 gauge ?
I need to get a few things but I really would like to get this running by this weekend.
 
Arrived today. Appears to be a bafang/8fun, correct?

I am planning to use with ku65 and 10s 5000mah lipos. If my math is correct, using real world 3800mAh from 5000mAh lipos (untill 3,6v), it will give me something near 7 kilometers at 550w, or near 18km with pedalling effort and using throttle wisely.

Or do you guys think is better to use a bottle battery? In favor of lipos, I can put the 2 lipo blocks in a kind of a bag, put the plastic controller case that bmsbattery sells (or similar, DIY), and the setup will be very neat!

P5151455.jpg

P5151456.jpg

P5151457.jpg
 
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