Battery and Controller efficiancy

[Statesman]

Hi there.
I have been doing a lot of reading on various forums, but have never found the answers to my question, so thought I would ask here

Firstly, my bike: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/High-Spec-48v750w-Urban-X3-Mid-Drive-Electric-Bike-Bicycle-11-6Ah-Panasonic-/322415782133

This question assumes the following: PAS 0, THROTTLE OPERATION ONLY, Smooth flat road, no wind, rack mount battery and 9 speed cassette, 29 inch rims.

I have read that the BBS02 likes to spin fast

Does that mean MAX RPM?

In first gear, my bike can do around 35kmh (It may go faster, but didnt want to try full throttle) so......

1st Gear 35kmh 130 rpm (assumed)
2nd Gear 35kmh 120 rpm (Hypothetical)
3rd Gear 35Kmh 110 rpm (Hypothetical)
4th Gear 35Kmh 100 rpm (Hypothetical)

Which of the above 4 scenarios, (assuming conditions at start of post) would:

Be less drain on the battery
Be more friendly to Motor/Controller longevity

My next question assumes im peddling

PAS 0 1,2,3 only set up n mine

Is there an speedo indicated road speed motor cutoff for each PAS Level?, so for example, assume you are in 7th gear, doing say 45 kmh, will PAS Motor still be active if its set at 1 2 or 3? or will the motor only kick in at below a certain speed, depending on which PAS level its set at?

I have found PAS1 to be quite powerful. On a flat road, If I start in 1st gear, I sometime try to go straight to 4th, as its like a heavy truck gearbox, like you are only in 2nd for a couple of secs, third for a couple of secs, so 4th seems logical. Do you guys skip gears, or click thru them all. It does have a gear sensor and if you shift quick you can get to 4th before the motor kicks in again. Am trying the manual, depress e-brake slightly then can make the shift 1-4 slower

I also read that the faster you go, your expected distance falls as the battery drains faster. Does that depend what PAS level you are using?

Any thought chaps?

Thanks Chris

 

[MadRhino]

There is little loss from the controller, and almost none from the battery unless it is delivering more current than its spec C rate. The loss is from the motor, when it is running out of its efficient RPM zone. Usually, an electric motor is most efficient around 80% of its top RPM for a given voltage. This means you are better shifting gears to keep it happy at the speed that you are going. Other efficiency losses are everywhere heat or friction appears to be: wires, connectors, gears...

PAS level has a direct relation with the power that you are using, thus affecting the range that you can expect with each AH of battery capacity. Speed also, does pull power with both mechanical demand and wind resistance. So the faster you go, the less range you will have for each AH of battery capacity, and the power usage curve is exponential. This means twice the speed is pulling more than twice the power and the faster you go, the steeper the power usage ratio.

 

[Statesman]

Ok, many thanks for your reply. So it looks like the scenarios above have little between them as far as battery and motor/controller life are concerned. I could almost ride everywhere at 35kmh in 1st or 2nd gear on throttle only then, that way the motor would be running at around 80%