Beat this build 2.0

Joined
Oct 19, 2016
Messages
101
I heard your voices, and now I have made a 2nd build.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/322247604604?var=511295439136 - 1500W rear

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231802674027

http://www.ebay.com/itm/361837907109
 
If I really thought he was a spammer,, he'd be ban hammered.

Better match up of the motor and battery this time. I see no problem with that, other than the usual stuff. Meaning the battery may or may not have exaggerated specs. It will surely be shipped illegally, even if by slow boat. The kit may or may not last. But I see no problem with the gamble on both.

Still kind of hate the bike, but for 30 mph ish,, it won't be horribly unsafe. The shitty back wheel will of course be gone, and it's easy to upgrade the front wheel if it fails you. When the tin foil crank bends,, get a good one off an old bike on ebay. Your butt won't like that saddle one day, so look for a better one more or less immediately.

When you decide on build 3,, just continue this thread. No need to create clutter on the forum with each idea. One thread can take your build from ideas to finish.
 
Don't know where you reside, but start with a $100 used, good MTB (I purchased an excellent one for $50 last week), search xcceries (ebay) for a kit ($160 last time I looked) and use the experts to locate a good 48V (28 mph) or 52V (32 mph) battery. Mine cost <$300 and hasn't lost any vigor in the last year of use.
 
Thank you for the feedback I will continue on this thread.

Let me just first give some pretext I currently have a 1kw 48v 10ah lead acid e-bike which I love, but the range isn't too good and the speed is OK

I basically want a better bike which I can pedal on (my current bike can't pedal the chain is broken) and I want more range

Basically I just want a better bike that is safe and will last me a long time

I want full suspension, but I picked hard tail because of battery mounting options. If you guys know a good safe way to mount a battery on a full suspension I would love that.

I have thought of a new build (full suspension with nice battery holder)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/26-Men-Hybrid-Comfort-Bike-Full-Suspension-7-Speed-Black-Cruiser-NEW-/252007782528?hash=item3aacd59880:g:FysAAOSw9N1VjSYD

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231802674027

http://www.ebay.com/itm/322247604604?var=511295439136
 
LewTwo said:
If you are not capable of replacing a chain then you are not going to be capable of building an ebike. Better that you should find a dealer.

I built this e-bike.

I don't want to replace the chain because also another problem is that the lead acid battery is so large that I couldn't pedal anyway even if the chain still worked.

I appreciate your feedback, but please let's make it relevant to the build rather than ad-hominem to me
 
I really like this battery: http://www.ebay.com/itm/48v-50ah-Lifepo4-Lithium-Battery-Portable-Battery-E-Bike-Scooter-Power-Packs-BMS-/262751715225?hash=item3d2d38ff99:g:5xkAAOSw-0xYR0oj

What do you guys think?

Also the main concern is that this battery seems almost impossible to mount
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lifepo4-Lithium-48V30AH-Portable-Battery-E-Bike-Scooter-Built-in-BMS-Charger-/281710070041?hash=item41973a8919:g:BwYAAOSwH71XOoL-

This might be more reasonable for my budget, but honestly if someone knows a really good way to mount that 50AH I would rather do that instead
 
EbikeAdvocate said:
I really like this battery: http://www.ebay.com/itm/48v-50ah-Lifepo4-Lithium-Battery-Portable-Battery-E-Bike-Scooter-Power-Packs-BMS-/262751715225?hash=item3d2d38ff99:g:5xkAAOSw-0xYR0oj

What do you guys think?

Also the main concern is that this battery seems almost impossible to mount

Personally, I'm not sure I'd be willing to invest even 300$ for that 920$-price tagged battery. I can't seem to trust eBike battery sellers on eBay. But hey, that's just me ! Have a look at battery sellers with a more solid reputation like NKON before you make your choice.
I know it's very easy/convenient and tempting to buy stuff off on eBay, but for a battery, I wouln'd trust a sellers that might not even know much about the batteries they're selling.I could buy a motor kit on ebay though... but for a battery, I wouln'd trust sellers on ebay. they tend to overspec everything and there are a lot of conterfeited cells that seller themselves might not even know about....

Finding a good battery source is a tough one IMHO. Buy from someone thrustworthy like an eBike store that has lots of feedback on their battery products or from a reputable battery specialist shop. There are also some ES members selling batteries/cells. I'd suggest to search for these opportunities as well.
 
+1 with the above statement. I received two batteries from Dillenger that were crap. If a company that large can't even get good batteries from the Chinese, our only choice is a reputable seller. Keep searching at ES to (hopefully) locate one.
 
I haven't bought lithium cells from him, but if you want to DYI build your own custom battery, Tumich has been selling 18650 cells for a while and there seems to be a lot of good feedback from ES members. Here is the thread (note that the first post is frequently updated/edited by Tumich so you can have an idea of cells available at the moment) : https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=61608&hilit=tumich

Read carefully to get the details. Cells are pulled from new but defective pack most of the time. Unwelded cells can have spowelding residual marks on them. The prices seem really hard to beat but you might want to check if you'll have to pay additionnal fees in your country if you go that route (shipping, custom, taxes, etc...). Tumich might be able to answer your questions is you PM him. I doesn't cost anything to ask ! You'll also have to learn about building a battery if you choose that route. There are plenty of threads on that subject on ES. But remember to use caution and judgment if you plan on building a battery.... shorting something on a lithium battery can cause a fire and even severe burns. You might also want to lean about BMS, chargers, spotwelding, conductive properties of metals, etc.

One advice I can give is : don't precipitate yourself in buying any battery! Don't be impulsive in your buy ! Take your time ! Analyse data... You have to learn about eBike batteries to make a wise choice or this could be a huge disapointement. Lithium batteries are expensive and some sellers (eBay, unknown sellers on aliexpress, sketchy websites displaying "too good to be true" prices, etc) might take advantage of that and sell you crap. Make sure you know what kind of cells constitute the battery pack you'll buy. Make sure these cells are genuine (lots of fake used laptop cells rewraps). Make sure you get a battery that has enough of these genuine quality cells to comfortably provide the amps your controller will suck and dump into the motor and that the Wh (or Ah) rating of the battery suits your range needs (of course, make sure voltage is right too). Finally, shop for best prices, but remember : if prices seems to good to be true, it probably is... This requires experience and judgment... So if you're not sure, ask ES members, they can help you confirm that what you are looking at is a great deal or a likely fail. As for this 50Ah battery on eBay you're considering, I would personally gladly pass my turn and NOT buy this.

If you want ready to use battery packs (already built and BMS protected) , than I'd also think that reputable ebike sellers like lunacycle.com, em3ev.com, ebikes.ca, etc., would be good places to look for. But still, make sure you know what cells you battery will be made of. And also make sure the number of cells in the pack (S and P : series number for voltage, P : parallel number for capacity (Ah) and amp-rating (A)) is enough to suit your need. Sony VTC4 cells can sustain up to 30A load per cell (albeight at a high temp that could be a detrimental for cycle life) while NCR18650B cells were only designed to sustain a mere 5A load per cells (pretty lame IMHO).Time to read the Battery technology thread on ES for more info.

Declaration of conflict of interest : I have to say, I'd really like to have the opportunity to buy that Lunacycle BBSHD Ludacriss 50A-controller as a separate part from Eric :mrgreen: . (https://electricbike-blog.com/2017/01/02/too-much-is-never-enough-reprogram-your-50-amp-luna-ludacris-bbshd-controller-to-run-at-60-amps/) I did mention Lunacycle in this post, among other "advertised" sellers here in this post... Although I have bought some BBSHD parts from LunaCycle, I haven't bought battery packs or lithium cells from them yet (I'm in Canada). Nonetheless, I do believe they provide guenuine 18650 lithium cells for sell. I do not know how their pack are assembled though, as I have never laid my hands on any of them, but they seem to get good reviews in general. I would tend to buy their battery pack (especially those big ones -- like those high Ah triangle packs -- if built with quality 30Q, HG2 or 25R cells). I would personally trust their business, but once again, this is me. I suggest you read, gather knowledge and judge for yourself.
 
EbikeAdvocate said:
Let me just first give some pretext I currently have a 1kw 48v 10ah lead acid e-bike which I love, but the range isn't too good and the speed is OK

Well then, you get your present bike a chain, assuming it's brushless with halls a controller like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Quality-GREENTIME-15-Mosfets-48-84V-1500W-Dual-mode-Sensor-Sensorless-Brushless-DC-Motor-Controller/32218294528.html and of course a bit bigger battery, which people here can walk you through.

Once we have an idea how you're doing with it we can work on your next bike. We can control the horizontal. We can control the vertical.
 
DAND214 said:
Only ones I know is EM3ev.com.
Also Lunacucle.com. One more Pingbattery.com

Dan


Wow em3ev.com is a beautiful website!!!!

AMAZING deals such a great owner really helps the people out.... But is it legit?
 
Yes legit - just installed his mac rear cassette kit on mates hardtail. Needed to fit an extra washer to get space for the brake calliper apart from that dead easy. Went together very quickly, real nice connections with CAv3 and controller all preconfigured.
 
Oh yeah,, EM3ev is legit.

Others disagree strongly, but with the new lighter batteries we have today, I think you can carry a 48v 15 ah battery on a rear rack of a FS MTB with only a tolerable change in how it rides. Less than 10 pounds, like a 10 ah pack even better.

Here is how you support a seatpost rack, to stand hard dirt riding, up to 10 pounds of weight. The extra struts not only hold it up, they also reduce tail wag. A floppy rack will make the tail wag the dog.

 
eTrike said:
@Matador-- you may want to look deeper at specs, etc... Just FYI in the 50A controller video it was pulling ~25A peak. This is simply marketing to unaware users-- it is not designed to run at 50A reliably. However, if you have a system now, you can modify the controller yourself for increased amperage and get the same effect :)

Yes it makes sense : the more you push a controller/motor by using more amps, the less reliable they become. Hotrodding comes with it's sets of risks, I'd be willing to take that risk but I'd like to keep my regular controller as a spare just in case the 50A-Ludacriss one burns. I've seen the ES thread on modifying the controller by installing an additionnal amp shunt. I know I could do it myself although i like the idea of the cast aluminium controller cover made for a better cooling. If the 50A controller video you are refering to is the «BBSHD eBike Acid Test» on youtube, well I have no way of knowing for sure how much amp the controller was outputing, altough I think a 50A BBSHD would likely kill an 11.5Ah battery pack made of Panasonic PF cells. Hence I understand that quote «Acid testing the BBSHD and 11.5ah Panasonic PF Pack» at 0:56 in the vid. Judging by the size, that small pack on Grant's bike is either 13S4P or 14S4P. Either way a 4P arrangement of PF cells in only supposed to be good for a maximum of 40A draw (10A/cell). I think while it might just barely be okay for the regular 30A BBSHD, I would not pull 50A from a battery pack made for a max draw of 40A, as that's pushing the battery envelope too far IMHO. All the others (Josh, Kurt, Danae) riding a BBSHD in the vid seem to know that, as they all had massive triangular battery packs feeding amps to their BBSHD, not a small 14S4P packs... More likely 14S7P or 14S6P ones. I'm not sure how many more «acid test» that small 4P panasonic PF pack could take. But for the amps, I sure would of liked to see the screen of an ammeter/watt meter during the acid tests.
 
EbikeAdvocate said:
I have thought of a new build (full suspension with nice battery holder)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/26-Men-Hybrid-Comfort-Bike-Full-Suspension-7-Speed-Black-Cruiser-NEW-/252007782528?hash=item3aacd59880:g:FysAAOSw9N1VjSYD

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231802674027

http://www.ebay.com/itm/322247604604?var=511295439136

I'm new here and to ebikes in general but I have been working on upgrading my son's mountain bike to an ebike for over a week now. His Christmas present was a kit very much like the one in your link. One of the issues we've had is mounting everything on the handlebars with the existing gear change mechanism. He had a combined Shimano brake lever and gear change system which we had to abandon and, fortunately, we were able to salvage a twist change mechanism from an older bike that worked with the new brake levers in the kit and the thumb throttle. I realize now, however, that this setup would not work with the twist throttles that come with a lot of the kits like the one you've posted (you don't want to have to reach over the throttle to change gear).

I mention this because there's no description of the controls on the bike you're looking at.
 
AdrianB said:
He had a combined Shimano brake lever and gear change system which we had to abandon and, fortunately, we were able to salvage a twist change mechanism from an older bike that worked with the new brake levers in the kit and the thumb throttle. I realize now, however, that this setup would not work with the twist throttles that come with a lot of the kits like the one you've posted (you don't want to have to reach over the throttle to change gear).

Yes. You have to scrap the combo shift/brake if you want to use the e-brake levers. Some LCD displays have the separate 3 button unit that needs to be fitted near the left grips. Many displays with integrated buttons have to go there too. Twist throttles are long, unwieldy, and look like crap.

I convert to thumb throttles as they take less room, and allow custom grips. I've had to pitch twist shifters to get more room. Shimano rapid fire shifters seem to fit well.

No one talks much about the above, but if you like a clean ebike, it's added costs.
 
docw009 said:
You have to scrap the combo shift/brake if you want to use the e-brake levers.

In our case, not using the e-brake levers was NOT an option. One of the features of the kit is "cruise control" and if you have to stop suddenly you don't want to have to think about disengaging the motor before braking! :shock:
 
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