jj.abrams82
10 µW
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2016
- Messages
- 5
Can you advise me best 1000w hub motor to buy for the e-bike i plan to build .
Best 1000w hub motor
- Thread starter jj.abrams82
- Start date
dogman dan
1 PW
Now theres a vague question.
Some will say the best is the cheapest one on the planet. Best for those with no money, for sure.
Others will tout the one they sell. Best for me clearly, if you buy from the company I work for.
But very likely, the highest quality, most sophisticated kits out there are sold by Grin Technology.
Lets make some assumptions, since you gave us zero information.
If you plan to ride 4 miles a day max, and maybe as little as 2 days a week, then you don't need a high dollar setup. Cheap kit off amazon, and 4 lead batteries.
If you need to do 40 miles a day, a commute, 5 days a week, and don't want to get fired for constant late arrivals. Then you need a much better wheel, one able to take the pounding of 40 miles a day at the speed bike racers travel. Most commuters spend about $1500-2000 on the whole bike and motor system.
Some will say the best is the cheapest one on the planet. Best for those with no money, for sure.
Others will tout the one they sell. Best for me clearly, if you buy from the company I work for.
But very likely, the highest quality, most sophisticated kits out there are sold by Grin Technology.
Lets make some assumptions, since you gave us zero information.
If you plan to ride 4 miles a day max, and maybe as little as 2 days a week, then you don't need a high dollar setup. Cheap kit off amazon, and 4 lead batteries.
If you need to do 40 miles a day, a commute, 5 days a week, and don't want to get fired for constant late arrivals. Then you need a much better wheel, one able to take the pounding of 40 miles a day at the speed bike racers travel. Most commuters spend about $1500-2000 on the whole bike and motor system.
Drunkskunk
100 GW
Best at what?
There are many types of motor because there are many different conditions in which the motors have to operate. There is no such thing as a best overall for all conditions. The motor that will be best at hauling 500lbs of camping gear up the side of a mountain will be totally different from the motor that is best at commuting in Kansas. And those would both be different from the best motor for zipping around some singletrack trails in the back country. And the best in all 3 of those categories will change depending on your size, weight, riding style, expectations, and the bike you mount them on.
We can help you pick the best motor for your needs, but we will need a whole lot more information on when where how and what you plan to ride.
There are many types of motor because there are many different conditions in which the motors have to operate. There is no such thing as a best overall for all conditions. The motor that will be best at hauling 500lbs of camping gear up the side of a mountain will be totally different from the motor that is best at commuting in Kansas. And those would both be different from the best motor for zipping around some singletrack trails in the back country. And the best in all 3 of those categories will change depending on your size, weight, riding style, expectations, and the bike you mount them on.
We can help you pick the best motor for your needs, but we will need a whole lot more information on when where how and what you plan to ride.
wesnewell
100 GW
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=66302
spinningmagnets
100 TW
When you first start to look at hubmotors, they all look fairly similar. If you are on a tight budget (as many new readers are), then it is likely that you would be best served by a "starter" kit.
A cheap yescom direct drive rear hubmotor kit from ebay ($250?), TWO torque-arms ($50) a cheap bike ($150), and a fairly good 48V lithium battery ($700?). When you decide to upgrade some part of the ebike, because after you actually have one, you now know what you really need to best suit your particular rider profile...The bike and kit can be sold cheap, so not much loss there, maybe even break even because it's already assembled and can be test-ridden by potential buyers to show it actually works?
You will never get back any money on a battery. Everyone will assume it only has a little life left in it (which is actually a pretty safe assumption on a mystery ebike for sale). Therefore, on your first ebike, I recommend getting a decent battery that you will be keeping, 48V and 15-Ah minimum in size (20-Ah is much better). I'd also say get a hardtail-framed bicycle (used and cheap, with good brakes) and load it with a triangle-shaped battery pack, in a triangle bag.
For a lithium triangle battery, Luna and em3ev are popular right now.
A cheap yescom direct drive rear hubmotor kit from ebay ($250?), TWO torque-arms ($50) a cheap bike ($150), and a fairly good 48V lithium battery ($700?). When you decide to upgrade some part of the ebike, because after you actually have one, you now know what you really need to best suit your particular rider profile...The bike and kit can be sold cheap, so not much loss there, maybe even break even because it's already assembled and can be test-ridden by potential buyers to show it actually works?
You will never get back any money on a battery. Everyone will assume it only has a little life left in it (which is actually a pretty safe assumption on a mystery ebike for sale). Therefore, on your first ebike, I recommend getting a decent battery that you will be keeping, 48V and 15-Ah minimum in size (20-Ah is much better). I'd also say get a hardtail-framed bicycle (used and cheap, with good brakes) and load it with a triangle-shaped battery pack, in a triangle bag.
For a lithium triangle battery, Luna and em3ev are popular right now.
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