Best wire to use for very high current application?

Almasi

100 W
Joined
Mar 19, 2008
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254
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Montreal, Quebec , Canada
I know it's the Ebike forum...but this is for my electric gokart , it will be running 30S8P A123 Pack with a D&D ES15A motor and Kelly 500Amp controller, I will be using 4/0 wire gauge for junction....but which one???

I have found some Boat cable that is 4/0 on Ebay , it's made to resist to corrosion.... it's tinned copper , does that affect conductivity ? Is a bare copper wire better for conductivity?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.com%3A80%2F%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp3907.m38.l1313%26_nkw%3D%2B380114385682%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&item=380114385682&_rdc=1&viewitem=


Before I make a mistake ;) please confirm that it won't or will affect performance ?

Robin
 
Tinned copper is better because it does not tarnish. You still get the resistive properties of copper without fear of it rusting inside the jacket. Multi strand, pvc jacket- looks like good stuff.


You could also use the wire from a welder too. That stuff is pretty cheap and flexible.
 
johnrobholmes said:
Tinned copper is better because it does not tarnish. You still get the resistive properties of copper without fear of it rusting inside the jacket. Multi strand, pvc jacket- looks like good stuff.


You could also use the wire from a welder too. That stuff is pretty cheap and flexible.

Thanks for the info!

I just found this

wind-sun_2045_16684584


From this company : http://store.solar-electric.com/wc--4-0.html

Insulation look better...but I will only run 108 Volt full charge, so I don't think It's really a concern, it's about 1$ cheaper / feet, so if tinned wire is better I will go with that! (they both have the same number of strand 2109 to be precise!)

Robin
 
PaulM said:
Please please post video of this cart when it is done :mrgreen:


Don't worry ... I will , probably in 2 weeks, maybe 3 (it depend on part in shipping)

I will bring it on the 1/4 mile for sure, I have 2 different gear for the final drive, the tall gear should give over 200 KM/H :twisted:

I also need to make my custom fast charger for the 240 A123 cell in there, it will probably charge in 45 min (with a 20 Amp breaker at 120Volt AC)

Robin
 
In car audio 0 gauge is out friend but we also run multiple hot wires and ground wires on our loads. On serious set ups its not un common for us to run three or four 0 gauge wires to the front of the vehicle and just as many ground wires to the front of the vehicle. Chassis grounds are a no no. Bad volt drops over long distances. Try to get wire that has highest strand count that you can find or afford.
 
Surface area on your connections are key. The bigger it is the less resistance there is and you wont get hot terminals. We know how hot small andersons get with a bad connection dont let it happen on a big scale.
 
You've gotten some great advice so far! :D

Regarding cable types...
Be sure to check out the insulation temperature rating. A thick insulation layer is useless if it starts melting during use. :mrgreen: Silicone insulation ratings start at 150-degrees C. and can go up to 200-degrees C. PVC-insulated wire can be rated as low as 85C and can easily soften if against a hot controller case, if the wire gets hot, or of the connector gets hot and the wire near the connector sinks the heat away.

Silicone insulated (or other rubber insulated) wire often comes in very flexible "battery" or "welding" cable variations. This extra flexibility can be good, or very bad, depending on how you run the wire and use it.
 
Another thing i see in the car audo field is wires labed a certain gauge but they arent really that... The only thing that makes them that is the insulation. The wire inside is significantly smaller. Basicially im saying make sure you dont get wires that have thick insulation and small wire. Make sure its a true 0 gauge.
 
icecube57 said:
Another thing i see in the car audo field is wires labed a certain gauge but they arent really that... The only thing that makes them that is the insulation. The wire inside is significantly smaller. Basicially im saying make sure you dont get wires that have thick insulation and small wire. Make sure its a true 0 gauge.

I sure hope this only happens in the car audio field! :shock:

I've seen different insulation thicknesses on cables at work, but that just affects the voltage rating, the copper inside is still the proper size. Might not hurt to get cable with CSA or UL approval to avoid this potentially dangerous problem.
 
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