BIONX Speed limiter removal

Slideleft

1 µW
Joined
Apr 9, 2015
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2
Hi All,
I keep hearing about it, but has anyone here actually tried the tool below to reprogram their New Bionx system? How has it worked?
http://www.elektrofahrrad-einfach.de/products/bionx/ELFEi-BionX-Tuning-Tool.html
I want to purchase the newer Bionx S 350 DV retrofit kit for my commuter 29er and want to get max speed closer to Specialized Turbo's (claimed 28). Alternatively, I'm thinking of getting the Bionx unit for a 20" or 24" wheel and building it into a 29er rim. Anyone try this? Wisdom to share?
Thanks.
Jeff
 
Alternatively, I'm thinking of getting the Bionx unit for a 20" or 24" wheel and building it into a 29er rim. Anyone try this? Wisdom to share?

That way will definitely work. When the system is sold with the motor laced into a wheel, there is a max-rpm programmed into the system. The max rpm is based on the wheel size so a "20 inch" motor can be removed from the wheel and rebuilt into a larger wheel and the "speed limit" changes just as you would expect. I know this having bought a used 26" system and having the motor rebuilt into a 20 inch wheel. I can enter the correct wheel circumference in the controller (codes 2005 and 3771). My mileage and speed are dead accurate but the assist is rolled over to zero at 17mph from the max rpm cutoff.

Going the other way should work just fine with a couple of possible pitfalls.

First and most important, on level ground with the 48V system, back EMF will likely limit you to 700W or so and that is going to translate to 25mph or so in an upright position. Tuck and get up to 27 or so. Go with a full recumbent (again with the 700c wheel) and you'll just make it to 30 but since the back EMF is higher, you will only be using ~430W or so. For just that reason, the recumbent will also get you a LOT better range at higher speeds.

The second pitfall is that if you enter your wheel circumference properly (to get accurate odometer and speed) I think the system will roll the assistance to zero just a little above 20mph. I'm not sure this is true (I have never built a 20" motor into a larger wheel) and you should certainly try being honest about the wheel circumference. But if the system does limit at 20mph, just enter a wheel circumference half what it actually is and multiply the display by 2 to get your mph and mileage.

There aren't too many folks on ES who are interested in Bionx systems and it is certainly true that you can get a LOT more horsepower for a LOT less money with other components.

But...the torque sensor in the Bionx motor and the effort-based assistance provided by the Bionx system give the bike a nearly magical feel. I bought all four of my Bionx systems used and at VERY good prices and I am quite happy with the performance (even with the 17mph assistance limit on my tadpole). I find I don't often need more power than the 48V PL350 (canbus G2 motor) provides. There is this one hill (4% and 6 miles long) that does drive the 700c (TREK Valencia+) Bionx system into the thermal protection mode (which roughly halves the power). The 20" tadpole with pretty much the same Bionx system goes right up that hill without even a flicker of hesitation (smaller wheel, higher rpm, greater efficiency at the motor, faster too).

In any case, I love mine and am riding them about 2500-3000 miles per year between the two.

All that said, if I were starting from scratch I would take a LONG HARD look at systems like this one from ebikes.ca:
http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/conversion-kits/crystalyte-h-series/crystalyte-rear-hs-kit-advanced-pas.html

to that I would add a torque sensing bottom bracket (a possible selection in the kit above):
http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/ebike-parts/torque-sensors/isis-128.html or http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/ebike-parts/torque-sensors/tdcm-128.html

and a really nice big battery:
http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/ebike-parts/batteries/b4820lim-kit.html

Please understand that I DO NOT have any experience with these components. I just looked once to see how I could replicate the Bionx effort-based assistance in a less "closed" system. The component system above will do effort-based assistance through the Cycle Analyst (CAv3 included in the motor kit) will go MUCH faster, and MUCH further than ANY Bionx system and will run around $2400, compared to $2000-$2500 for the Bionx (depending on model).

In any case, enjoy the adventure.
 
Look here.
Everything you ever wanted to know about BionX...

Don't know if this old information will work on new Bionx models?

Before I spend a lot of money on something that might need to be serviced in the future, I ask for a service manual BEFORE handing the money to the dealer.

Back in 2007 I was happy with BionX PL350 kit. Worked great till the battery died. Think what killed the battery was letting it sit unused for a winter. Now I charge e-bike batteries once a month. BionX battery repair is on my list of things to do.
 
Thanks for responses. My fixation on Bionx is based primarily on units sold to reputable bike manufacturers. In other words, they're proven out. And, made somewhat close to the USA. I haven't had an ebike yet, but have had a few experiences with Asian made electric scooters and the motor controllers were extremely unreliable and not cheap (crap).
 
Slideleft said:
Thanks for responses. My fixation on Bionx is based primarily on units sold to reputable bike manufacturers. In other words, they're proven out. And, made somewhat close to the USA. I haven't had an ebike yet, but have had a few experiences with Asian made electric scooters and the motor controllers were extremely unreliable and not cheap (crap).

I almost went for the BionX for the same reasons but passed on it because of the speed restriction. You may want to look into one of the Falco kits. They are really powerful (my 500 watt, 36V, 700c goes up to 35 mph) and are in about the same price range as BionX. They may have a local dealer near you, or you can order direct from their website. I like my kit well enough that I'm looking to buy another one for a Mtn. Bike project.
 
If you do understand German have a look at http://www.open-ebike.com

The BionX CAN protocol was "hacked" (actually it is not encrypted) so tehre is a modified software 6.2 for download to use with the bionx bike interface or the software "bikeinfo" which lets you modify ANY parameter with a CAN controller like Tiny CAN.

You can switch on the motor temperatur in the display, add throttle in bosst mode (legal in EU), modify maximum A and maxium regen A, modify the voltage of the DC-DC light output, modify the start speed, the acceleration, the top speed throttle/PAS, the accelaration and derating ramps, almost everything that you could imagine and more...

With that sofware hacks BionX has become the most "open" and programmable ebike system.

Of course everything is at your own risk and you have to know the law in your region.

Btw, a 48V BionX System consumes up to 30A peaks from the battery (even in standard configuration), so in reality even those EU legal 250W BionX systems are 1300W (peak power) systems.

The maximum speed of a BionX 250W/350W motor made for 24" to 29" wheels in a 28" wheel at 50V (fully charged 13s battery under load) is 50km/h freewheeling and 40-45km/h under load. It gets slower when the battery empties.
The motors made for 20" rims and the 500W high speed motor are fatsre but have less torque.

If you drive around at 40-45km/h (I have a street legal BionX s-Pedelec) the motor controller gets quite hot up to 80°C at 20°C ambient temperature. BionX limits the power when approaching 85°C at the motor controllers, so in hot summer days there is the chance the my BionX SL motor will reduce power after running some km at full speed...
 
Just wanted to chime in and let folks know I've successfully unlocked Bionx using the BigXionFlasher software & related canbus dongle. Our demo bike with an aging motor and battery was able to hit 24 unassisted and 26 with some light pedaling. I hear they can hit 31 if you've a fresh system.
 
Interesting to fined a few taking about this. I don't have time to spend on the lists as I used to but I have a 250w system on the 5.6 revision which I flashed several commands in I got from a German site. Would have to check my notes but had some experience with can communications and used a value can unit I used at work back in the day.

Adding a 15v lion battery (ultra life 2590 ) and 2 larger lion battery cells 3.6v each on top of the 26v stock pack.

So I run around. 52v with everything fully topped off.

With the codes flashed in and extra voltage I can do 24mph pretty well and 27-28 for a while.

I did get a user on the German site when I was playing with it to buy me a tiny can module and send it to me. (They would not sell direct to the U.S. At the time.

But I've never used it since the thing does just about everything i wanted on the first try. Only thing the regen on the brake trigger got deactivated I used to like the regen as a break of sorts but I didn't go further to try to re enable it seeing the unlock gave me the speed and regen does not really provide to much range encrease so left it be so to avoide screwing anything else up.

it is a hoot to ride. Although I'm now to the point where I need to replace the main battery. Wondering if the new or current can systems still can be unlocked like the older can ones were?
 
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