BMC V2 (600w) & disc brakes

[dscline]

I know some motors have caliper clearance issues with certain brakes and certain size rotors. Does anyone have any experience specifically with the BMC V2 and Avid BB7 brakes? I know if it's tight, going to larger rotors may help get the caliper out away from the motor, but going too large MAY start to cause clearance issues with my frame (the rear triangle gets wider as it gets closer to the axle, so I'm afraid if I go TOO big the rotor may approach the frame). I'm afraid it may be one of those things I may not find out until after I've already bought the brakes. Does anyone have any experience with this brake on this motor?

Thanks!

 

[lcyclist]

I have this setup : Avid BB7 mechanical + 6" rotor with the BMC V2 600W on one of my bikes. I had to bend the outer brake pad lip slightly to clear the body of the BMC. The caliper itself does not touch the BMC motor.

My other setup uses the Hayes MX-2 mechanical with no clearance issues at all.

 

[dscline]

I have this setup : Avid BB7 mechanical + 6" rotor with the BMC V2 600W on one of my bikes. I had to bend the outer brake pad lip slightly to clear the body of the BMC. The caliper itself does not touch the BMC motor.

Thanks for the info! Without yet having the brakes, I can't visualize the part you had to bend, but it sounds like it wasn't a big deal? Is it safe to assume that shifting to the 185mm rotor would be enough to make this clear the motor, while possibly increasing the risk of clearance issues between the rotor and the bike frame?

 

[lcyclist]

Without yet having the brakes, I can't visualize the part you had to bend, but it sounds like it wasn't a big deal? Is it safe to assume that shifting to the 185mm rotor would be enough to make this clear the motor, while possibly increasing the risk of clearance issues between the rotor and the bike frame?

The part you need to bend is the pad "ear" tabs which is used to grasp the pads when removing/replacing. It is bent towards the motor in a way that it barely touches the hub body. Just bend the ear tab slightly with a plier away from the hub body (ie. bend towards the caliper side). It does not affect the fit of the pads/performance. And yes, you should be able to clear the hub body completely with a 185mm rotor.

 

[GrayKard]

Without yet having the brakes, I can't visualize the part you had to bend, but it sounds like it wasn't a big deal? Is it safe to assume that shifting to the 185mm rotor would be enough to make this clear the motor, while possibly increasing the risk of clearance issues between the rotor and the bike frame?

The part you need to bend is the pad "ear" tabs which is used to grasp the pads when removing/replacing. It is bent towards the motor in a way that it barely touches the hub body. Just bend the ear tab slightly with a plier away from the hub body (ie. bend towards the caliper side). It does not affect the fit of the pads/performance. And yes, you should be able to clear the hub body completely with a 185mm rotor.

I'm confused, I have BB5 brakes and those tabs on mine go up into the caliper body so that they are up away from the hub with no chance of rubbing. Does the BB7 have them pointing down?

Gary

 

[lcyclist]

I'm confused, I have BB5 brakes and those tabs on mine go up into the caliper body so that they are up away from the hub with no chance of rubbing. Does the BB7 have them pointing down?

Gary

Apparently so. The BB5 tab points up:


BB7 tabs points down:

 

[dscline]

Well, by the time I confirmed that a 185mm rotor would fit on my bike with a motor, pricepoint ran out of the 2008 185 BB7 sets they had for cheap. So I got a 160mm rotor. Guess some tab bending is in my future.