Chalo
100 TW
Looks sharp. How do you get the wheel in and out?
Bomb proof my axle
- Thread starter shenzhen_ex
- Start date
shenzhen_ex
100 W
Chalo said:
How to remove the front wheel:
1) Remove the forks.
2) Remove the fork brace adapter.
3) Remove the 2 TA's
4) Remove the flange adapters. They are threaded and have wrench flats.
Wheel is off!
Chalo
100 TW
Well, whatever works. I guess you'll be dong some Dutch-style flat repair, pulling the inner tube out the side and patching it without removing the wheel.
I thought it was a PITA when I had a bike that required me to remove 8 screws from the fork ends to get the wheel off.
I thought it was a PITA when I had a bike that required me to remove 8 screws from the fork ends to get the wheel off.
shenzhen_ex
100 W
FORKING HEII. I snapped my front axle again. just a little WOT jump.
Chalo
100 TW
Ah, now I see. I thought you had gotten a smooth 20mm axle that passed all the way through the fork ends, hence my question about how you remove the wheel. But those are just sleeves as in your drawing above.
Sleeving the axle can seriously reinforce it, BUT only if there is a lot of axial preload compression on the sleeve, so a bending load doesn't cause the sleeve to part from the face it mates up to. That is, the sleeve must be bolted on, and it must be bolted on very tight, maybe tighter than it's reasonable to expect from an interrupted thread like the one on a hub motor axle. Otherwise the joint between axle face and sleeve is just a stress concentrator.
See if your wife and a wad of cash can sweet talk the manufacturer (or failing that, someone else) into making you a 20mm axle. If you don't think the fork end clamps will retain the motor torque, then have a square milled on the end and a matching hole cut into the torque arm.
Sleeving the axle can seriously reinforce it, BUT only if there is a lot of axial preload compression on the sleeve, so a bending load doesn't cause the sleeve to part from the face it mates up to. That is, the sleeve must be bolted on, and it must be bolted on very tight, maybe tighter than it's reasonable to expect from an interrupted thread like the one on a hub motor axle. Otherwise the joint between axle face and sleeve is just a stress concentrator.
See if your wife and a wad of cash can sweet talk the manufacturer (or failing that, someone else) into making you a 20mm axle. If you don't think the fork end clamps will retain the motor torque, then have a square milled on the end and a matching hole cut into the torque arm.
docnjoj
1 GW
Wow that is georgous! Now we need thses setups for every bike made! 
otherDoc
otherDoc
Chalo
100 TW
docnjoj said:Wow that is georgous! Now we need thses setups for every bike made!
otherDoc
Careful what you wish for.
John in CR
100 TW
shenzhen_ex said:
Damn, sorry to hear that. Unless you did something to weaken the axle in the process, it must be creating a more focused stress point on the axle due to greater rigidity over a portion of the length.
Iv hit huge steps and a few 2-3 feet drops with no damage so far on my 20mm setup. The conhis has a 14mm axle width so maybe thats it. I wouldnt personally jump anything less than 14mm. A 12mm axle with 6-8 mm hole for the wires could mean 2-3mm thin wall points wouldnt it (even less if it has 10mm flats) eeek.
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